Drum Bearings replacement

This is Mogsey above again! Upon reading this I decided to revise it adding even more hoping it might help someone. I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help as it really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! Basically you have get out the residue water, release/slide apart sideways the door seal clip ring (crocodile toothed) and undo the hidden pipe attached (you will need a pair of pincers to replace this pipe clip). Then spit the m/c casing by first undoing the two screws at rear of the top and sliding the top off backwards. Undo the linking straps now revealed covering the drum hanging springs noting the positions of all. Remove the 2 screws and white plastic bung/washers holding the bottom halves of the casing together and any other screws at rear of casing to enable the two halves to come apart. The power lead and inlet valves quadrant just lift out as one. Unclip or just twist out all hoses attached to the drum casing, unclip most drum/motor/heating wiring, remove belt (note position) and motor screws, motor then slides off its spigots. Remove motor &, lay to one side,there is no adjustment for the motor belt it is elasticated. Withdraw the 2 nylon pins from the two shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable fitted just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum casing hanging springs (mark which way round positions top and bottom) lift drum to take weight off these springs, push screwdrivers through the looped ends and then thread rope or wire though the loops to improvise as handles. Using these with gloved hands unhook and drop each spring though its slot thus lowering the whole drum assembly onto some blocks. Then and lift/pull/take out the complete drum assembly (this really needs two people to avoid contacting with other modules and hoses etc). With drum assembly removed split the casing ring of bolts (need long extension bar to facilitate this easily), remove front half (be careful here not to damage the heater). take the half still containing the drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper to aid removal/loosening. Remove this screw (needs good quality Allen key) and use wedges to force up and off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum whilst on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle/spigot. Take care to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up on blocks or slab but (ensuring protruding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large diameter bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and in front the drum seal) (noting right way round for refitting seal). Turn over the casing rest It on suitable blocks or a short piece of large pipe and knock through the outer bearing from the inside of the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle spigot & renew if damaged (particularly where the seal lip sits). Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old (green) O ring between the drum casing halves and renew. Replace all, but when rejoining drum assembly bolts tighten opposite bolts working around the drum to pull it together evenly. When drum is back in give it a quick test run under power before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned and running correctly. The job would have cost £115 and took 3.5 hours which I think is well worth paying someone to do. The original inner bearing fit is SKF 6307-2Z/VT223 ID 35mm OD 80mm 21mm thick. The outer one is SKF 6506-2Z/VT223 ID 30mm OD 72mm 19mm thick. The seal is marked CFW plus 47-80-11/13.5 plus RWDR KOMBI plus 12496610. Hope this all helps.
This is Mogsey above again! Upon reading this I decided to revise it adding even more hoping it might help someone. I have now renewed the bearings in my Zanussi Jetsystem 1600, Model FJD1666W. Had a man in to help as it really is a two man job and I put my back doing this with him. The bearings were much larger than previously encountered. Very! Basically you have get out the residue water, release/slide apart sideways the door seal clip ring (crocodile toothed) and undo the hidden pipe attached (you will need a pair of pincers to replace this pipe clip). Then spit the m/c casing by first undoing the two screws at rear of the top and sliding the top off backwards. Undo the linking straps now revealed covering the drum hanging springs noting the positions of all. Remove the 2 screws and white plastic bung/washers holding the bottom halves of the casing together and any other screws at rear of casing to enable the two halves to come apart. The power lead and inlet valves quadrant just lift out as one. Unclip or just twist out all hoses attached to the drum casing, unclip most drum/motor/heating wiring, remove belt (note position) and motor screws, motor then slides off its spigots. Remove motor &, lay to one side,there is no adjustment for the motor belt it is elasticated. Withdraw the 2 nylon pins from the two shock absorbers, Look for and remove the little earthing cable fitted just inside the pulley rim. Carefully release drum casing hanging springs (mark which way round positions top and bottom) lift drum to take weight off these springs, push screwdrivers through the looped ends and then thread rope or wire though the loops to improvise as handles. Using these with gloved hands unhook and drop each spring though its slot thus lowering the whole drum assembly onto some blocks. Then and lift/pull/take out the complete drum assembly (this really needs two people to avoid contacting with other modules and hoses etc). With drum assembly removed split the casing ring of bolts (need long extension bar to facilitate this easily), remove front half (be careful here not to damage the heater). take the half still containing the drum outside, lay drum face down and use a drift to hit the socket headed screw securing pulley hard to shake up the taper to aid removal/loosening. Remove this screw (needs good quality Allen key) and use wedges to force up and off the drum drive pulley. Support drum casing on blocks or put drum on its side, support the drum whilst on its side and use a heavy drift and hammer to knock through the drum spindle/spigot. Take care to avoid grating hands on the sharp drum holes. With drum now removed place the casing drive end up on blocks or slab but (ensuring protruding heater is clear of the ground!) put a large diameter bolt (head down) inside the first bearing and rest it on the edge of the inner bearing. Carefully working round the inner bearing edge use a hammer and the bolt head as a drift to knock out the inner (the larger of the two bearings and in front the drum seal) (noting right way round for refitting seal). Turn over the casing rest It on suitable blocks or a short piece of large pipe and knock through the outer bearing from the inside of the drum casing. Clean all and check condition of spider/spindle spigot & renew if damaged (particularly where the seal lip sits). Fit the new outer bearing then the new inner followed by the seal. Dig out the old (green) O ring between the drum casing halves and renew. Replace all, but when rejoining drum assembly bolts tighten opposite bolts working around the drum to pull it together evenly. When drum is back in give it a quick test run under power before replacing casing to ensure belt is positioned and running correctly. The job would have cost £115 and took 3.5 hours which I think is well worth paying someone to do. The original inner bearing fit is SKF 6307-2Z/VT223 ID 35mm OD 80mm 21mm thick. The outer one is SKF 6506-2Z/VT223 ID 30mm OD 72mm 19mm thick. The seal is marked CFW plus 47-80-11/13.5 plus RWDR KOMBI plus 12496610. Hope this all helps.

Mogsey again

My apology I misread the bearing designation for the smaller outer drum bearing on the Zannusi FJD1666W. It should have read SKF 6306-2Z and NOT SKF 6506-2Z. Both bearings have shields on both sides. Mogsey again
My apology I misread the bearing designation for the smaller outer drum bearing on the Zannusi FJD1666W. It should have read SKF 6306-2Z and NOT SKF 6506-2Z. Both bearings have shields on both sides.