I have smart home monitoring and the air conditioning is high and the house is very cold what is the ideal temperature

There are plenty of reasons this could happen like the following: PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSE Loud operating sound level • See "Sound Information" section for explanation of normal operating sounds Freezer too warm. Compressor not operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Defective compressor • Defective overload or relay Refrigerator too cold • Refrigerator temperature set too cold • Chefs Pantry control set too cold or misaligned allowing freezer air to escape into refrigerator section • Freezer temperature set too cold • Restricted condenser air • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor cuts off on overload • Heavy usage • High ambient • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Loose or missing condenser fan blade • Improper voltage • Defective relay or overload • Compressor motor winding • Non-condensibles in system • Refrigerant overcharge Freezer too warm. Compressor operating • Freezer temperature set too warm • Restricted condenser air • Defective condenser fan motor • Opened door • Heavy usage • Defective freezer fan motor • Opened defrost thermostat • Opened defrost heater • Loose or missing freezer or condenser fan blade • Heavily frosted evaporator • Refrigerant shortage or restriction • Inefficient compressor Refrigerator too warm • Refrigerator temperature set too warm • Freezer temperature set too warm • Return air or air supply duct blocked • Chefs Pantry control set too warm or air supply tube blocked • Heavy usage • High ambient Problem Possible Cause Freezer too cold • Freezer temperature set too cold Long off cyde • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Short off cycle • Heavy usage • High ambient • Freezer temperature set too cold • Light constantly on • Poor door gasket seal Long or continuous run cyde • Heavy usage • High ambient • Inadequate condenser air flow • Freezer temperature set too cold • Loss or restricted refrigerant Short run cycle • Light usage • Low ambient • Freezer temperature set too warm Exterior cabinet condensation • High humidity. Design accepts beads of water on cabinet exterior after 4 hours with 0° to 2°F (-18° to -17°C) freezer food temperature and 38° to 40°F (3° to 4°C) refrigerator food temperature in 84% R.H. conditions. See "Typical Sweat Pattern" section under above conditions. • Freezer temperature set too cold • Poor door gasket seal • Insulation void

most home air conditioners go as low as 18 c but this low setting achieves nothing but a high power bill
the purpose of air conditioning ( air conditioning -- to condition the air) is to remove the humidity ( water vapour ) form the air and allow the body to perspire more freely and so is by the evaporation of the perspiration of the body water that cools the body
this evaporation is hastened by the fact that the water vapour in the air is very low due to the air conditioner operation of conditioning the air
Now knowing this fact it is obvious that all the windows and door should be kept closed ( to remove the humidity from the room /house and so a setting of 25-26 c is sufficient to keep you cool
because the temperature difference between outside air and room air is low the air conditioner cycles less frequently and costs less to run
if the room setting is at minimum and the atmospheric temp is high then the air conditioner is running virtually all the time
so instead of asking what is the minimum temp you should be asking what is the optimum temp run to be conformable and to save on power costs

Check each of the sensors one has failed or it also alarms on low temperature and you are cold enough to trip it.

The drive cycle is as follows
For all OBD2 VW's

OBD-II Drive Cycle Stages
The OBD-II Drive Cycle is an eight-stage course, as illustrated in the
chart on page 3. An explanation of each step is provided below.
Stage 1: Cold Start-The ECM determines the presence of a cold start
by comparing the engine coolant temperature to the ambient air
temperature during startup. The engine is considered cold when:
• Engine coolant temperature is below 122°F (50°C).
• Engine coolant and intake air temperatures are within 11°F (6°C) of
each other at startup.
During this period, the O2S heater, misfire, AIR, fuel system, and EVAP
monitors run.

Stage 2: Idle 2½ Minutes-Turn the air conditioning (A/C) and
headlights on to help the misfire monitor-the additional electrical loads
help even out combustion pulses. During this period, the O2S heater,
AIR, EVAP, misfire, and possibly fuel system (if operating in closed loop)
monitors run.

Stage 3: Accelerate-Prior to accelerating, turn off the A/C and
headlights (if possible). Open the throttle halfway until you reach
55 MPH (89 KPH). During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and
EVAP monitors run.

Stage 4: Steady State Cruise-During this portion of the cycle, the
O2S, AIR, EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run.

Stage 5: Decelerate-Gradually coast down without applying the
brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and
do not press the clutch. During this period, the EGR, EVAP, and fuel
system monitors run.

Stage 6: Accelerate-Apply ¾ throttle until reaching 60 MPH (97 KPH).
During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run.

Stage 7: Steady State Cruise-During this period, the CAT, O2S, AIR,
EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run.

Stage 8: Decelerate-Gradually coast down without applying the
brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and
do not press the clutch. During this portion of the Drive Cycle, the EGR,
EVAP, and fuel system monitors run.

You can try this a couple times, but if it doesn't work you should go to a VW specialty shop like the dealer or a shop that does mostly European cars and they can use the scan tool to force the car through readiness.

It's 98 outside ... that says a lot. The gurgling is an indication that you are getting a lot of water out of the air (dehumidifying). If the unit is sized just right, or just a little too small, it may be working perfectly well.

You don't say where you are, geographically, but much to the US has an air conditioning design temperature of 95 degrees F. That means at 95 degrees, the unit will run continuously. With a 50% outside air relative humidity, it should keep the occupied space at about 75 degrees F. The more humid the air, the more the unit works on dehumidifying and less on cooling.

Give it some time, wait unti the weather breaks and see if it doesn't run just like it used to. If you chose to call a technician, have him/her take temperature readings of the condenser entering and leaving air, the suction line temperature, the liquid line temperature, the inside supply and return air temperature (dry bulb and wet bulb) as well as high and low side refrigerant pressures. Before they make ANY changes to the system (refrigerant charge) have them explain what they found wrong and make sure you understand what they are talking about. Adjusting the charge under these conditions, will mess up your operation under normal conditions.

Welcome to FixYa,
Check the Following
Is your filter clean? Look and the evaporator in the inside unit. Is it frosted up? Do you have condensation water in the pan? Go to the outside unit and feel the air coming out of the fan. Is it warm? Now feel the 2 copper pipes coming out of the unit. Is the small one warm or hot? Is the larger one cool ? Is there moisture on it?
Air conditioner runs but doesn't cool at all
If the airflow is good and the air coming out is not cold, your home air conditioning problem may be a temporary problem - your coils may have frozen. Turn the unit off for an hour to let them thaw, then try again. If cold air is now present, freezing coils were the problem; if the problem recurs soon after turning on, you may need to replace the coils. Again, call a pro. If you have ceiling vents in upstairs rooms and the air flowing from them is consistently warm, you probably have leaky or poorly insulated ductwork in your attic. See my Attic ceiling insulation page for more information on insulating ductwork that runs through attics.
Another likely home air conditioning problem if you have good airflow but no cooling is that thebreaker to the outside unit is shut off, which, depending on the installation, can either cause the air conditioning system to not run at all, or to appear to be running but not provide any cooling. If you can hear the compressor fan running outside, the breaker is on, but if the outside unit is silent the outside breaker may be off. If switching it on does not solve the problem, look for the high pressure cut outon the condenser and try resetting that.

Check this Link for Detailed Repair Click here

Hope you got an Idea...Thanks for Contacting FixYa...

I have a couple of sites I can share with you. These are quick, easy, basic calculators to give you a general idea. Because of the conditions in South Florida - High Temperatures & High Humidity, you can expect better results from a professional analysis as proper sizing is critical for satisfactory operation.

This is for whole house air conditioning sizing:
http://www.northernac.com/newcalc.htm

This is for a room air conditioner:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/appliances/heating-cooling-and-air/air-conditioners/sizing-worksheet/index.htm
or
http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/home/air-conditioner-calculator

I hope you find this information helpful.
Good Luck! :-)