Check the solenoids at the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter or ohmmeter. A lack of continuity indicates a faulty solenoid.
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If your Kenmore Elite 100 series washing machine is filling with water for the wash cycle but immediately draining without actually washing the clothes, there could be a few potential causes:
1. Faulty or clogged water level pressure switch: The water level pressure switch is responsible for sensing the water level in the tub and signaling the washer to stop filling once the appropriate level is reached. If this switch is faulty or clogged, it may be signaling the washer to drain the water immediately. You may need to replace the pressure switch or clean the hose that connects it to the tub.
2. Clogged drain hose or pump filter: A clogged drain hose or pump filter can prevent the washer from properly draining the water, causing it to immediately drain as soon as it fills. Check for any clogs or blockages in the drain hose or pump filter and clear them if necessary.
3. Broken or faulty drain pump: If the drain pump is broken or not functioning properly, it may not be able to properly drain the water from the washer, causing it to immediately drain. You may need to replace the drain pump if it is broken.
4. Malfunctioning control board: In rare cases, a malfunctioning control board may be causing the washer to immediately drain after filling. If none of the above solutions work, it may be worth having a professional technician inspect and potentially replace the control board.
I am not familiar with any error code referencing "LP". Could you be seeing "LF"?
Below are the error codes listed for your washer:
"LF" (Long Fill) Inlet hoses are kinked or clogged or water valve screens are not clear. (Solution: Straighten inlet hoses or clear screens of any foreign material.)
"LD" (Long Drain) Drain hose is kinked or clogged. (Solution: Straighten or unclog hose.)
"FF" (Fill Failure) Problem with water level sensing system. (Solution: Call for service.)
"OL" (Open Lid) Lid Is open during drain or spin. (Solution: Close lid.)
"PF" (Power Failure) Power to washer went off during cycle. (Solution: Press any pad to clear the display. Restart the washer from the beginning of the cycle.)
Your cold water line is clogged, kinked or the water valve solenoid is not opening all the way. First check the hose, then the screen on the valve for clogs. If none then replace the water valve assembly.
Check the inlet hoses for plugged screens at the faucet ends. The screens are usually replaceable if you can't get them clean in a white vinegar/hot water solution. Check the inlet ports to the washer for similar screens. Hope this helps!
well you can try filling the outer tub separately.with what you mentioned, the problem is certainly not with the drain hose or the pump. fill the tub separately with some water and if the leak is seen then the problem is certainly with the outer tub corrosion or crack on it.
Yes, the only other thing I would do and you may have done this is to put the hose directly over in the washer tub and turn the water on to check the flow. If that's good then replace the water valve.
Most likely you have a problem with the fill valve. This uses solenoids to control the water into the machine. Shut off the hot water supply and remove the fill hose. Make sure the hose isn't kinked or clogged. There is a filter screen in the valve where the hose connects so check that too for clogs.
If the hose is OK the valve hot side solenoid may have failed. It needs to be checked with an ohmmeter. A good site is here:
http://repair2000.com/nowater.html
It shows a diagram of a fill valve and the terminals where you'd check. They have lots of other good troubleshooting information too, and sell parts.
It's also possible the temperature switch is bad, but this is not as likely as the valve.
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