300 watts RMS X 2 @ 4 ohms

600 watts RMS X 2 @ 2 ohms

The actual wattage you will be using will depend on what type/impedence speakers you are using, and how they are wired. Here's a link to some more of the specs of your amp:

http://www.bazooka.com/productAutoAmplifiersRS.asp?id=199

I hope this helps.

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1answer

Speakers are rated either at RMS (root mean square) average power or Peak Power. An RMS of about 125 watt is equivalent to 250 watt peak. To match the radio and speakers they both need to be consistent. Also do not be confused with total radio power out vs per channel.

So if the speakers are 250 watt peak power then a radio with 125 watt per channel or 250 watt peak per channel would be a good match.

If the speakers are RMS 250 watt then the radio would be 250 RMS/channel and usually with a four channel radio a total of 1000W RMS

With that much power the neighbors should hear you coming!

So if the speakers are 250 watt peak power then a radio with 125 watt per channel or 250 watt peak per channel would be a good match.

If the speakers are RMS 250 watt then the radio would be 250 RMS/channel and usually with a four channel radio a total of 1000W RMS

With that much power the neighbors should hear you coming!

Dec 02, 2015 •
Car Audio & Video

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It's the woofer that will use almost all from this 150 W so if you replace woofer take one of 8 ohm which can handle 150 W and you done

Jul 15, 2014 •
Pioneer Audio Players & Recorders

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2answers

Add up all the wattages of the appliances you are using when they come on and go off including lights. fridges. freezers, fans , stoves, tools and every thing. add them all up and you will get thousands of watts called kilo watts . see how many you use per hour and you will get a kilowatt/hr usage rate. Find out the power cost per kilowatt/hr and multiply the usage by the cost and you have your answer. Or you can get a wireless transmitter that is clamped around the input line to your premises and it transmits to a receiver to inside your house (mine sits on the fridge) and it tells you the cost as everything is running . press the mode button and you get progressive cost and other modes are there as well. It is great because if I forget and leave the pool running I can see at a glance that something drawing a lot of power is running so I can check it out and turn it off. Ask you power provider about it or a good electrical shop.

Oct 07, 2013 •
Computers & Internet

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Jan 2013

1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.

Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps

Compare amp load with circuit breaker.

20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.

Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.

Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.

Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps

Compare amp load with circuit breaker.

20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.

If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.

Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.

Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Jan 18, 2013 •
Electrical Supplies

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1answer

The center speaker 900 watts, the two speakers on sides 300 watts each and the subwoffer 500 watts. Total of the speakers power 2000 watts.

Sep 02, 2012 •
Fellowes AE10 Amplifier

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First of all, are there any other appliances or lights on this circuit? If so, they must be included in the total wattage for the circuit. The fan units are either listed with the Amp rating or wattage rating (Volt Amp) VA. The total amperage allowed on a 15 A circuit is 12A.(80% of the total per NEC). The total wattage would be 1380 watts. ( 115 Volt single phase X 15A = 1725 watts, 1725 x 80% = 1380 watts)

Jan 04, 2011 •
Cutler Hammer Ch115 15a 1 Pole Circuit...

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2answers

According to page 24 of the manual, it delivers 11 Watts RMS (route mean squared) per channel into 8 ohm speakers.

Elsewhere in the manual, you'll see references to "15 watts per channel" and as much as "25 watts per channel". The 15 watt value is valid when putting up with some 10% THD (total harmonic distortion), this value is 11 times higher than the .9% THD value given for 11 watts per channel. You tolerate .9% THD now, but you wouldn't want to listen to anything with 10% THD. The 25 watts per channel is what they call "Music Power". Watts is an electrical term, "music power" is not. You could use it to compare other devices that only offer "music power" values, but the best indication of how it will perform is based on watts in RMS, into an 8 Ohm load (most speakers are 8 ohms). The lowest THD values are best.

From the manual:

AUDIO POWER SPECIFICATIONS

POWER OUTPUT AND TOTAL HARMONIC

DISTORTION:

With 8 ohm loads, both channels driven, from

70 - 20,000 Hz; rated 11 watts per channel

minimum RMS power, with no more than

0.9% total harmonic distortion from 250

milliwatts to rated output.

I hope this helped!

Elsewhere in the manual, you'll see references to "15 watts per channel" and as much as "25 watts per channel". The 15 watt value is valid when putting up with some 10% THD (total harmonic distortion), this value is 11 times higher than the .9% THD value given for 11 watts per channel. You tolerate .9% THD now, but you wouldn't want to listen to anything with 10% THD. The 25 watts per channel is what they call "Music Power". Watts is an electrical term, "music power" is not. You could use it to compare other devices that only offer "music power" values, but the best indication of how it will perform is based on watts in RMS, into an 8 Ohm load (most speakers are 8 ohms). The lowest THD values are best.

From the manual:

AUDIO POWER SPECIFICATIONS

POWER OUTPUT AND TOTAL HARMONIC

DISTORTION:

With 8 ohm loads, both channels driven, from

70 - 20,000 Hz; rated 11 watts per channel

minimum RMS power, with no more than

0.9% total harmonic distortion from 250

milliwatts to rated output.

I hope this helped!

Nov 23, 2010 •
Sony MHC-G101 Shelf System

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1answer

Well... It consumes 240 watts of electrical power total so take the audio power specifications with a huge grain of salt, as no audio device puts out in audio power anywhere near what it consumes in electrical power. Heat produced is power consumed, too and nothing is 100% efficient.

In the specs below the only information useful for comparison is in the line I highlighted with >>> <<<<'s as it conforms the closest to the industry standard practice of using:

"X watts into 8 ohms (standard load) from 20 - 20000 hz plus or minus Y db at no more than .0Z% distortion"

The better amps specify vanishingly low distortion specs (0.0x% vs 0.x%) at the cost of being able to claim higher wattage. But they guarantee cleaner sound at the claimed levels.

JVC is being tricky with their choice of a 40 hz lower limit. THAT is the power hungry end of the spectrum. 20 hz is normally the lower limit stated.

"Output Power .............At Stereo operation

Front channels .............55 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 4 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN) 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN)

>>>>> 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms, 40 Hz to 20 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion. <<<<<

At Surround operation

Front channels .............50 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Center channel .............50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Rear channel .................50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion."

In the specs below the only information useful for comparison is in the line I highlighted with >>> <<<<'s as it conforms the closest to the industry standard practice of using:

"X watts into 8 ohms (standard load) from 20 - 20000 hz plus or minus Y db at no more than .0Z% distortion"

The better amps specify vanishingly low distortion specs (0.0x% vs 0.x%) at the cost of being able to claim higher wattage. But they guarantee cleaner sound at the claimed levels.

JVC is being tricky with their choice of a 40 hz lower limit. THAT is the power hungry end of the spectrum. 20 hz is normally the lower limit stated.

"Output Power .............At Stereo operation

Front channels .............55 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 4 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN) 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.9 % total harmonic distortion. (IEC268-3/DIN)

>>>>> 30 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms, 40 Hz to 20 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion. <<<<<

At Surround operation

Front channels .............50 watts per channel, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Center channel .............50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1 kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion.

Rear channel .................50 watts, min. RMS, driven into 8 ohms at 1kHz, with no more than 0.8 % total harmonic distortion."

Mar 02, 2010 •
JVC RX-554V Receiver

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1answer

140 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm

loads, 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a

maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.05% (FTC)

170 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm

loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total

harmonic distortion of 0.7% (FTC)

180 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 6 ohm

loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total

harmonic distortion of 0.1% (FTC)

loads, 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a

maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.05% (FTC)

170 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm

loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total

harmonic distortion of 0.7% (FTC)

180 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 6 ohm

loads, 2 channels driven at 1 kHz, with a maximum total

harmonic distortion of 0.1% (FTC)

Oct 22, 2009 •
Onkyo M-282 2-Channel Amplifier

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1answer

Hi this is Compaqowner again NOTE: I know enough about home Stereos,and I am pretty sure to figure out 'power output' you take the total:in this case it takes in 110 watts total devide that by 2 so according to my math that is 55 watts (I guess this AKAI has a 55 watt amplifier) then you take the amplifier output (in his case 55 watts) and devide that by how many channels are being used,so in 5.1 DOLBY mode DVD movie,etc.(power to all 5 speakers) then it's 11 watts per channel,and in 2.1 stereo (power to the subwoofer,front right,and front left speakers only) it jumps up to a little over 18 watts per channel,again,I think?,when you find the answer,please let me know. Thank you for your time. Steve B.

Nov 03, 2007 •
Audio Players & Recorders

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