Takes too long to dry- element cycles on and off - line draw 23 amp

On 240 volt system the currant draw is 23 amps And on 110 volt system the draw is 50 amps . If the wiring can handle the above load plus the safety margin it would be safe.

Are you sure the breaker is big enough to carry the Amps needed to start the drying cycle. You know that due to inductance it takes almost twice as many amps to start a motor as it does to run it.Find out how many Watts it uses and divide it by 120VAC and it will give the maximum amps it will draw. See if the breaker is high enough amp for it. A 25 Amp breaker should be efficient. I hope this helps you and if I can help you in anyway in the future let me know.

Make sure battery surface is clean and dry. No liquid or fluid !

Mai Lor

I don't know if this will help. I had to work on Fisher & Paykel two draw dishwasher. The one problem was one draw would work but the other wouldn't. There is one board for each draw and one board in the base. The board in the base seem to be the power supply for the rest of the machine. I don't remember the model number and it has been years ago. Getting to the boards was not easy.
I did the swap the two draw boards and the problem didn't move. So whatever the problem was it was in the draw. I found Fisher & Paykel had design the heating element as a resistor to drop the 110 VAC down to a voltage the logic/controller board can use turn to Dc voltage to run board. The problem I found was the heating element had opened. There was no power to run the board. Later there was also a cable problem the confounded the repairman. He had to replace the draw harness.
My really big problem is the heating was on the ground side of the logic/controller board. The logic/controller board was on the 110 VAC side. So that if the heating element opened the logic/controller board would be floating up to 110 VAC. So any meter measurement on the board show 110 VAC. Even touching any part of the board and any part of washer you can get zapped. So be careful. It should the other way around so the board is at the ground side and heating element on the high side. If the heat element opened there would be no power to the board would be at ground level and no shock problem.

It is almost definitely the thermal fuse. However, you also need to determine why it blew the thermal fuse. This fuse is in place to protect the Control Unit from overheating cause by to high of an amp draw from the motor, the heating element, or a dead short in one of the solenoids.

Replace the thermal fuse, which is located on the Control Unit, behind the Control Panel. After replacing the thermal fuse, start the dishwasher and using an amp meter, test the amp draw of the unit at the supply connection.

During the water fill, you should only see 0.1 to 0.2 amps at the most, and possibly could show 0.0 amps. Once the wash motor turns on, you should see somewhere between 1.2 and 1.8 amps. If the amp draw goes over 2.0 and stays there, you have a bad wash motor.

The best way to check the amp draw of the heater is to put the unit into a field diagnostic mode. To do this, cancel the cycle and wait for the unit to shut down (standby mode). In this order, press "HI TEMP WASH - AIR DRY - HI TEMP WASH - AIR DRY". Air Dry could also be labeled No Heat Dry or something similar. All of the LEDs will light up momentarily and the heat element will be turned on briefly. The amp draw of the heat element can read from 5.5 amps to 7.0 amps. If the amp draw of the heat element goes above 7.5, chances are that your heat element is bad and needs to be replaced.

You can check elements and motor seperately. Most dryers use a 4500 watt element, devide by 240 volts = 18.75 amps. Motor generally is 3 amps or so, for a total of about 22 amps. A circuit pulling close to the rated max amps will eventually blow. Make sure to test all electrical connections for a good solid connection. (at the dryer to cord, wires to terminals inside dryer recepticle, and at the fuse/ circuit breaker panel.)

HI, I would fist take off vent hose from back and blow line out,could be clogged with lint.If that does not work it could be bad high and low switches located byheating element.

Yes, you need to remove the element taking note of the connections and wire colors. Also note the seals used on the element. Remember that sometimes a "cold" element does not show the fault and only once heated does the "short circuit" show. Take the element with you to the dealer as many different elements (shapes and sizes as well as electrical connections on elements are available).

You have a leak due to the Lid seal leak.
1- Unplug the power, then pull out top draw half way and
2-Touch the bottom top housing ( not bottom top draw) you will feel it wet. Try to dry it by stick in a towel.
3- Repeat the same for the bottom drawer.
After drying out, wait for at least 1 day so the sensor can be dried out then plug in the Power, you will be fine.
4- Contact me for the next step.

Since you say the vent is clear, Make sure that the lint filter is cleared before each load. Make sure the door shuts close and is reasonably sealed. If the dryer draws air past the door, it is not fully drawing heat from the element or burner. Also make sure the washer is doing it's job in the spin cycle. It takes much longer to dry fabrics that are still soppy wet. You might try resetting the washer in the spin cycle to further evacuate the water from the clothes before placing in the dryer. See if that makes a difference. Maybe the washer spin is just being lazy. If it's a top loader it may have a loose belt causing the problem.