RG 364 6D DCS gas range

Hi,

Please set up an appointment with a handyman with a site like Angi or Home Depot repair services to get an intial diagnostic. You might need to have the whole door replaced as the current oven door is safety hazard.

Thank you.

try thoroughly cleaning the burners, particularly the holes in the ring that the gas come through. The gas come through to heat the ignitor so that the ignitor knows to stop trying to light the burner ; if the holes are clogged the ignitor doesn't heat.
The burner is easily disassembled from the top by removing a thin bolt, and you can clear the holes with a paper clip.

call in a gas fitter as the jets for the propane are probably incorrect.
the jets for lpg and nat gas are different in size and they may not have needed changing at all

Hello- What is probably happening is that the simmer orifice is clogged. If this gets clogged-up and not enough gas comes out to the burner it will continue to click. This is usually pretty easy to remedy. Take off the burner cap and you will see two holes, one in the center for the main burner and a smaller one that is on the perimeter of the burner. Look down that small hole and you should see a bronze orifice, it is pretty small, about 1/8" in diameter on the outside, looks like a nut. Most likely you will see grease or charred bits on the top of it (you can use one of the other burners for a reference if you are having trouble seeing it clearly) In the center of the orifice is a tiny hole, this is the part that is likely clogged. Now, you'll need to find something really skinny, like thin sewing needle and poke it into the orifice opening. Sometimes it is necessary to hold onto the needle with needle-nosed pliers in order to get it far enough in. Just be gentle with it and if what you are using seems too large in diameter then it probably is, you don't want to dent or cause any damage to the orifice opening. Once you get it cleaned out it should work ok. Let me know if you have any questions. Best regards.

This sounds a lot like a defective pressure regulator. If you do not have one externally connected, then the internal regulator is faulty. If internal, it shouldn't be too difficult to DIY. Just make sure the pressure rating is the same as the one that has failed.

Thanks for the offer, all I need is the parts to fix the stove, I know the problem and searching the replacement parts online.

This is not a solution but something to think about for troubleshooting.
On the DCS there are two ports that feed gas to the burner.
One for high flame and one for simmer.
On the DCS if the flame is snuffed out on simmer it will automatically reignite.
So if the igniter will not shut off while on simmer, the sensor is bad and is trying to reignite the burner.

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This should be fairly easy to do. You will have to get new jets that are sized for propane. These should be readily available. The jets on the stove top are located under each burner in the top of the pipe that delivers the gas. Remove the burner and you should be looking at a small hole in the center of a brass fitting, that's the jet. It unscrews and the new jet screws in. You may also have to adjust the simmer. This adjustment is located on each burner valve. When you pull of the knob, the adjustment will most likely be in a hole on the shaft where the knob came out or as was the case with my stove, it was behind and beside the shaft, just visible with a flashlight. This adjustment is done with the flame on in low medium. You may need to hold the shaft with pliers to keep the valve from opening. Turn the screw a half turn or so until the flame simmers to your liking and is not so thready tat it wants to go out.
For the oven, this will either be an adjustable jet, or you will need to replace it with one set up for propane. Either way its a doable project.