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Have a 2012 HDK 36 volt golf cart. My problem is that none of the other electric items work

My problem is that none of the other electric items work ( horn, lights, turn indicators, reverse beeper I have checked the wiring and fuses can find NO problem with those. Looking for some HELP. Is there some hidden thing that would cause this to happen ?

Posted by Cletus Smith on

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5 Related Answers

Robert Debison

  • 412 Answers

SOURCE: lost alot of electrical items.....

sounds like your underhood fuseblock has gone bad..check for corrosion on underside and in connectors..have seen lots of problems with these

Posted on May 21, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 48 VOLT GOLF CART ''BATTERIES'' HELP !!! CURIOUS

Sams club $77 each

Posted on Jul 24, 2009

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golfcartman

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 ezgo golf cart.need to know the whole wireing

When you removed the batteries, a certain procedure MUST be followed. Key switch off, switch to tow position and shift lever in reverse. You must wait until the beeper unit sound dies out then remove the wire from the most NEGATIVE cable. Place in Neutral before installing new batteries. There is a specific sequence to putting the batteries in an EZ-GO cart. Failure to follow this procedure will kill the controller. The Key switch must be off and the maintenance/tow switch MUST be in the tow position when connecting the batteries. Any of the above will cause the controller to fail, due to improper discharge of the PRE-Charge capacitors.

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

skychief2001

Stephen

  • 21873 Answers

SOURCE: I have an ezgo electric golf cart and I have now replaced the 60 amp link fuse that connects to the battery and black wire. When driving the golf cart just quits and when checking the fuse is blow. Th

This is not a car question, but generally speaking a fuse blows when the current in the circuit exceeds the limit of the fuse.
I would look at the amp draw of the motor if that is what runs on that circuit and also the connections. It could be that the motor brushes are wearing out and the motor is pulling too much current.
I'm somewhat lost on your description - - you say it is a 60amp fuseable link but you bought 20 amp fuses. Are you dealing with two different circuits ?

Posted on Jul 24, 2012

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No horn and no right hand turn signal bulb good,icannot find fuse to the horn ifound signal fuse it is good


Horn also uses a relay . What year , make , model vehicle. The odds of the fuse being the falt are high , Fuse's do blow , but not for no reason . Short's to ground cause fuse's to blow . Which means electrical wiring problems or short's in electrical componets . Do you know what a relay is an how it works ?
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It's probably hooked to the reverse light circuit. See if you have reverse lights, if so then go to where the beeper was wired in and see if they did a good job or a tape job. taped stuff will always develop a problem over time. if you got power to it while in reverse but it ain't beepin-you know what to do.

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However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.

Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.

The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.

To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.

If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.

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I know this sounds aomewhat general, however please give the following some thought:
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Lost alot of electrical items.....


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