Question about AEG Refrigerators
Posted by stephen lee on
SOURCE: Icing up in bottom of the freezer
machine has a defrost issue, defrost mi metal or defrost timer
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
SOURCE: bosch frost free fridge freezer not freezing ice cream/pops at all and meat not totally frozen
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
SOURCE: Both Lights flashing and fridge not getting cold
I turned the fridge and freezer off using the circular dials, I then turned the unit off at the mains. Left it for a few minutes and then turned the power back on. I then turned the circular dials to "max" and then depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons to turn this facility on. This time they came on normally (not flashing) and no alarm sounded. The fridge and freezer then started to get cold. Once the unit had been running for several hours I then turned the dials to the 3/4 mark and depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons again to turn them off. Over night the fridge and the freezer appear to be working properly so I hope that my problem is solved. Maybe the unit just needed to "settle" before being switched on?
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
SOURCE: BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]
Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…
When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.
Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
SOURCE: My HFA290GB Hoover Frost Free Fridge Freezer has
check and, or, replace the defrost timer
Posted on Jul 17, 2010
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