Question about AEG Refrigerators
SOURCE: Icing up in bottom of the freezer
machine has a defrost issue, defrost mi metal or defrost timer
Posted on Apr 12, 2008
SOURCE: bosch frost free fridge freezer not freezing ice cream/pops at all and meat not totally frozen
Sounds like a defrost problem. Check to see if
there is any frost buildup in the back wall of the freezer. If so, it is not
defrosting as it should.
If
you don’t know what these are then unplug the machine and let the ice melt in
the freezer overnight with the door open. Then try it the next day, if is
cooling fine then you need to have a service person replace one of the above
items. If it still has a problem then it might be the compressor and you should
probably replace the machine.
Posted on Jun 28, 2008
SOURCE: Both Lights flashing and fridge not getting cold
I turned the fridge and freezer off using the circular dials, I then turned the unit off at the mains. Left it for a few minutes and then turned the power back on. I then turned the circular dials to "max" and then depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons to turn this facility on. This time they came on normally (not flashing) and no alarm sounded. The fridge and freezer then started to get cold. Once the unit had been running for several hours I then turned the dials to the 3/4 mark and depressed the super cool and super freeze buttons again to turn them off. Over night the fridge and the freezer appear to be working properly so I hope that my problem is solved. Maybe the unit just needed to "settle" before being switched on?
Posted on Sep 04, 2009
SOURCE: BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up
I have the same
model + problem. You should not need
to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you
describe is probably due to a blocked
pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to
prevent recurrence.
Behind the upper
freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few
days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille
(full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic
tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the
back). Your problem is too much ice
blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades'
down the back behind the bottom drawer.
When you manually
defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost
won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.
I have found that
the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect
the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom
of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with
tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the
door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is
unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start
up without warning]
Check how much of
the pipe is blocked by gentle probing
with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This
measurement is important…
When the pipe is
clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure
how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block
of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting
more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an
old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the
coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney'
rather than upwards.
There's no point steaming
the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when
your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when
you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney'
has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this
right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no
steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the
top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time
to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.
It's perfectly
feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.
Don't forget to
replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air
from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been
defrosting.
Take a lot of
care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid
website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.
Some of these
tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting)
so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back
of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left
of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove
the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer
and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge
from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle
built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with
longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a
larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the
floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath
the freezer.
Posted on May 10, 2010
SOURCE: My HFA290GB Hoover Frost Free Fridge Freezer has
check and, or, replace the defrost timer
Posted on Jul 17, 2010
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