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My kenmore elite cooktop "red dashes" on all heating elements Tried to depress lock for 10 seconds, nothing....no heat

Posted by Carole Whitcher on

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5 Related Answers

IFIXALL

Archie Ferrarini

  • 869 Answers

SOURCE: heating element broken, water leaking

You have to pull out dishwasher to replace the element.The element is easy to replace once you have pulled dishwasher out.This enables you to reach the area that you need to reach.It is common for a element to brake.On a newer dishwasher ,I would say it must have been defective if it just broke in half.Nothing electrical in a dishwasher can cause it to brake.

Posted on May 20, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

Posted on Jun 19, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 686 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite dryer heats but does not dry

Make sure that your vent tube is not kinked or crushed behind the dryer and it all this is ok then you need to change your cycling thermostat. is it gas or electric

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

jsrock516

Jeff Rockwell

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: How do you replace the heating element on kenmore

Have you confirmed the heating element is bad? There's more to the dryer heating circuits that can cause a no heat problem besides the heating element.

If your dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

Now...if you have determined the heating element is definitely bad, and this is a Kenmore Elite as the one you posted this question under, the following link explains how to access the heating element and replace it: http://www.fixya.com/support/r3677025-elite_duet_dryer_heating_element If you need further assistance, please post back with your complete model number (located on a nameplate around the door opening) and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Jan 06, 2010

aasc

Mike Smith

  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore elite elec dryer, 110.64972300. runs no heat

Pull one wire off the element and start the dryer in a heat cycle . Check power from that wire to the cabinet . Touch the meter to the terminal you pulled that wire off of , and check that voltage . You cannot get correct voltage by checking across the element . Trace the wire NOT getting 120 volts . It will either go to the timer or motor . It will lead you to the problem .

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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see below

Why the smoothtop radiant cooktop element cycles on and off
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Table of contents

Does the radiant heating element cycle on and off?

  • The surface cooking area may glow red when a heating element is ON.
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  • The radiant heating element retains enough heat when off to provide a uniform and consistent heat. The surface will still be hot even though the element has cycled OFF.
  • Cycling at the HI setting is normal and can occu
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