Question about Whirlpool Ovens

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Whirlpool oven RBS305PDS14. I received error code e2F3 for bad temp sensor. Door locked and temp spiked burning everything and filling the inside with smoke/grease. Now oven does not heat at all

Heating element : 35ohms Temp Sensor: 1134ohms Leads me to believe it is the Oven Control Board. Part WP8302994 Is it as simple as replacing the board and running a clean cycle? copper wire that runs into oven is temp sensor

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Jorgie Navito

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 350 Answers

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.
On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.
The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start/



https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Range-Stove-Oven/18---/Oven-won-t-turn-on-






Whirlpool oven RBS305PDS14.  I received error code - oven temp probe location temp probe-undefined-undefined-0_1.jpg





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Posted on Mar 20, 2020

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5 Related Answers

Powerman

Charlie Popeck

  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP56 Double Oven

Hello there,

This may be related to the F7 problem even if you are not getting an error message. Go to my web site at the following link:

 

http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded%20F7%20Problem.pdf

 

Please let me know if this works for you. I have sent my fix to over 1300 folks.

Good Luck,

Powerman

Posted on Oct 21, 2007

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Anonymous

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Oven shuts off when heating

its easier to replace than fix it i dont know where you would get the schematic GE doesnt have them.

Posted on Dec 14, 2007

Ekse

  • 13434 Answers

SOURCE: oven won't heat

please read this page
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=220859

It may solve the problem. if not please request more assistance from other experts.

Posted on Jun 18, 2008

Anonymous

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: I have an identical problem with a FEF352CATB.

There is a possiblity the oven thermostat may have to be repaired or replaced

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

Anonymous

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore electric range - oven temp low and takes forever to heat

if lower element tests open with continuity meter then it for sure is bad. i would also check the wire ends that connect to the element and/or the control board, they could have loosened allowing a bad connection and low voltage to elementor burnt off.. most ovens do not use the broil element at all during the bake cycle, only during the broil cycle.. some however do utilize the broil element during baking, but at a lower wattage or something..
best of luck,
ttfn

Posted on Oct 25, 2009

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How do I Unlock my oven


Okay dont panic kill power breaker gotta go old school go the to the auto parts store get some feeler gauges at the top of the door slide gauge in push to left may take a few tries but will happen open door leave the senor is either bad or not put back correctly if the control cannot read the sensor it defaults thinking it has a runaway temp lock door turn on fan what was the original problem or code think I can help

Aug 11, 2014 | Whirlpool 30" Single Electric Convection...

Tip

Whirlpool oven, stove and range fault codes (ERC and EOC display errors).


Here a list of Whirpool oven fault codes. The codes had been collected from different service manuals. This was a memo that I wrote for my own use. I think this can be useful to owners and technicians.

WHIRLPOOL - most models
Range/Stove and Oven Fault Codes, Common error codes.

F1 - Analog control board Failure
Disconnect for one minute - if error comes back, replace control board
F1 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - Oven temperature sensor open
Replace oven temperature probe
F2 - Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature probe
F3 - Clean temperature too hot
Replace oven probe
F5 - Door latch switch fault
Test and replace the door switch.


Whirlpool with 4 Digit Failure Code:

F1 - E1 - Electronic control (flip flop)
Replace control board
F2 - E0 - Shorted control keypad
Replace keypad
F3 - E0 - Oven temperature probe open
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E1 - Oven temperature probe shorted
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E2 - Oven temp too high
Replace temperature probe
F3 - E3 - Clean temp too hot
Replace temp. probe
F5 - E0 - Check door latch
F5 - E1 - Check door latch
Replace switch if defective

WHIRLPOOL Polara models 5 digit codes:

F1 F0 - EEPROM communication error
Replace ERC
F1 E1 - EEPROM checksum error
Replace ERC
F1 E2:7 - UL A/D errors
Replace ERC
F1 E4:2 - Model ID error
Reinsert keytail.
F1 E6:0 - Latch signal mismatch error
Replace ERC
F2 E0:4 - Shorted key error
Replace keypad assembly
F2 E1:3 Keytail unplugged
reinsert the keytail
F3 E0:5 Top oven sensor open
Test and replace top probe.
F3 E1:6 Top oven shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E2:9 Bake range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E3:8 Clean range over temperature
Test and replace temp probe.
F3 E4:10 Bottom oven sensor open
Test and replace temp probe
F3 E:15 Bottom oven sensor shorted
Test and replace temp probe
F5 E0:14 Door switch errot
Test and eventually replace door lock switch
F5 E1:16 Door latch not operating
Test and eventually replace door latch
F8 E0:17 Refrigeration error
Test the cooling module.
PF Power failure - Does not indicate a fault.
PF occurs when power is disconnected.

WHIRLPOOL
Models SF3, 30'' and 24"

F2 - Oven temperature above specifications
Check 8-pin connector from temp. probe to Electronic Oven Control
F3 - Open oven temperature probe failure
Check wiring, replace oven probe if necessary
F4 - Shorted oven temperature sensor failure
Check wiring harness, replace oven temperature probe if necessary
F5 - Push button stuck or faulty
Check for binding of pushbuttons and control panel glass. If OK, replace touch panel
F6 - Electronic control logic error (timing)
Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC)
F7 - Electronic control logic error (lock motor)
Replace ERC.
F8 - Electronic control logic error
Replace ERC.

on Jan 31, 2010 | Whirlpool RBS305PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

GR448LXPS ERROR CODE E2F3


Hello,

The F3-E2 error code means that the heated well above the setting the tempature was set at. The usual reason the oven would over heat by so much is a defective oven tempature sensor and the sensor would need to be tested to see if is the problem to test the sensor it would need to disconnected from the wiring to it and measure the amount of ohms of resistiance AT ROOM TEMPATURE when the oven is off and cool. At room temp. the the meter used to check the sensor should display between 1060-1100 ohms,if the number is vastly different that 1060-1100 at room tempature the sensor is defiently bad and should be replaced. This is what the sensor looks like oldtech2332_129.jpg
it will be inside of the oven chamber and again to properly check it the wiring should be unplugged and the meter leads should be placed into the plug at the end of the sensor to measure the ohms.
If after checking the sensor if its within the range of 1060-1100 ohms at room tempature the problem is going to be the control board.


I hope i have been able to help ya fix your oven,

Oct 08, 2011 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Hi OldTech, Whirlpool Acubake electric oven stopped working after it suddenly displayed a flashing F2EO error message accompanied by a persistent beep. I unplugged and plugged it again. Thought it...


Hi

F2-E0 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Aug 21, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I have an error code of E6 and F2 on my whirlpool accu-bake oven display panel. What do they mean.


Hi

F2-E6 Error indicates a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the oven temp. sensor itself is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue test the oven temp. sensor, it should read between 1080-1120 ohms, if the rating is more then that and the door appears to be closing fine then it is the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

Aug 08, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

My built in oven AKZ 110 is showing F 03 and nothing happens when I try to tune it in to work just stays on F 03 no fan no light either


This should help any further assistance please feel free to contact me.

WHIRLPOOL
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Non Y-Line
NOTE: Not valid for Y line. If there is a Y near the end of your model number, do not use this chart.
Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair 4 Digit Failure Code F0 - E0 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display re-appears - replace control F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor or oven temperature sensor fuse opened Replace oven temperature sensor or fuse F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace component 2 Digit Failure Code F0 or F1 or F5 Failed transistor Replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (ERC) F2 - E0 Oven temp too high 1. Test operation of door lock on self-clean models
2. Test relay contact operation
3. High resistance in oven temperature sensor F3 Open oven temperature sensor or thermal fuse Replace oven temperature sensor or thermal fuse F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F6 Problem in time keeping circuit 1. Reset time and/or cooking operation
2. Check for proper ground F7 Stuck function switch or button on Electronic Range Control (ERC) Replace ERC (Electronic Range Control/Clock) F8 Failure Electronic Range Control (ERC) Replace ERC (Electronic Range Control/Clock) F9 Door lock circuit Check wiring and test operation of door lock switch bkg-faultcodedivider.jpg txt-gototop.jpg WHIRLPOOL
Range/Stove Oven Fault Codes, Common
Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair Digit Failure Code2 F1 Analog to Digital Failure Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display reappears - replace control board F1 Safety flip flop Replace board F1 Shorted keypad Replace keypad F3 Oven temperature sensor opened Replace oven temperature sensor F2 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Check door/latch switch Replace switch if defective 4 Digit Failure Code F1 - E1 Safety flip flop Replace board F2 - E0 Shorted keypad Replace keypad F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor opened Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor shorted Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E2 Oven too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F3 - E3 Clean temp too hot Replace oven temperature sensor F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 Check door/latch switch Replace switch if defective

Jul 16, 2011 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

I was cleaning my self cleaning whirlpool accubake oven and a F1 and E7 code appeared. I have just bought my house and the prior owner did not leave any manuals. Help please


Most Whirlpool appliance manuals are available from Whirlpool: http://www.whirlpool.com/owners-center/owners-center-homepage.content.html . You will need the model number from the oven. This should be located behind the oven storage drawer on the rim. It will usually be on the left for a range and on the right for a wall oven. On rare models the plaque with the model number will be behind the door. If you add a comment with the model number, I'll try to post a direct link to the manual.

Are you sure about the error code? F1 and E7 aren't in my code books. I have an F7 and E1 code that indicates a short between the door switch or latch switch and the chassis or ground. (For double ovens, there are two of the switches for each door. The code doesn't specify which oven has a bad switch.) The F5 E7 error is a door latch that will not unlock. An F3 E7 error indicates that the warming drawer sensor has shorted out.

For the F3 E7 error, simply replace the sensor. For the other two errors, the solution depends on the door lock state. You start by unplugging the oven and checking all the wires and their connectors. See http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repairtips/repairtips_appliance+fault+codes.aspx#Whirlpool%20Range%20/%20Stove%20/%20Oven%20Fault%20Codes for the complete set of steps. If the wires/connectors are okay, you probably need to replace one of the door switches if the oven door was locked when the error occurred. If it wasn't locked, then you can check the voltage to the various switches and replace any that are bad. If it isn't a switch, then it is the control that has failed and must be replaced.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Jul 02, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool Self Clean oven Model number:RBS305PDS17. I used the self clean feature and now my oven will not heat up. All the digital controls work such as preheat and temperature, however there is...


Error code E2F3 indicates oven overheating, i.e. sensor is not cutting off heat. Replace the sensor, about $75 online. If you have done this more than twice, or if oven is acting strangely (for instance, broiler comes on during "bake" preheat), replace control board OEM part #8302994, about $170.

Aug 16, 2010 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

The oven isn't working and it says FO in red letters


GE / Hotpoint / RCA
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring

Frigidaire / Westinghouse / Tappan / Gibson
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 & F1 EOC failure Replace EOC
F2 Oven over heat Defective Sensor or EOC
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F5 EOC failure Replace EOC
F6 EOC failure Replace EOC
F7 EOC failure Replace EOC


Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral
Oven Fault Codes
Display Condition Remedy
F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane
F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock
F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.)
F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock
F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock
F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock


Amana / Caloric
Oven Fault Codes
Type with display - glass link ERC
Display Condition Remedy
F0 No Safety Signal Replace adapter board
F1 No Safety Signal Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F7 Shorted Touch Panel Replace Glass Panel
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch
FF Lock Error Check switch and motor
ERC III - Relay board with separate board/push buttons
F0 Shorted Push Pad Replace Push Pad
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace touch pad
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch


The following diagnostic chart Does not apply to Whirlpool 'Y' line products. If the model number contains a Y near the end of the number, DO NOT use this chart.
Whirlpool / KitchenAid / Roper
Oven Fault Codes
Ovens with 4 digit displays
Display Condition Remedy
F0-E0 Analog to Digital failure Disconnect panel for 30 seconds. if error re-appears then replace control
F1-E1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2-E0 Shorted Keypad Replace Keypad
F3-E0 Sensor or Sensor Fuse Open Replace Sensor or Fuse
F3-E1 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F3-E2 Oven over heat Replace Sensor
F3-E3 Cleaning Temp over heat Replace Sensor
F5-E0 Door Error Check Door
F5-E1 Door Latch Check Latch
F5-E2 Door Switch Check Switch
Ovens with 2 Digit Displays
F0 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F1 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F2 Oven over heat Replace defective Sensor
F3 Oven Sensor Open Check/Replace Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor
F5 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F6 Problem with time keeping circuit Reset Time or cooking operation and check for proper ground
F7 Shorted or sticking button Clean button or replace ERC
F8 Defective ERC Replace ERC
F9 Door Latch Error Check latch and latch circuit


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Dec 18, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

F3 and F2 Error Codes


If hitting clear/cancel won't clear it try unplugging and then plug it back in. My guess is the oven control is bad. Here are the fault codes for this model.

Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair F0 or F1 Failed transistor in control If code cannot be cancelled, replace the Electronic Range Control (ERC) or touch pad F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit F3 Open oven temperature sensor circuit Measure oven temperature sensor circuit at oven temperature sensor (should be approx 1100 ohms at room temp); check for cut or pinched wire or loss of contact F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit Same as above; check for melted connector or both leads shorted to ground F8 Component failure within Electronic Range Control (ERC) effecting temp processing circuits Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC) F9 Problem with door lock circuit such as pinched wire between Electronic Range Control (ERC) and door lock switch Check wiring and test operation of switch

Jul 15, 2008 | Ovens

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