Generator Transfer Problem

• The completely automatic transfer switch monitors incoming voltage from the utility line, around the clock.
• When utility power is interrupted, the automatic transfer switch immediately senses the problem and signals the generator to start.
• Once the generator is running at proper speed, the automatic transfer switch safely shuts off the utility line and simultaneously opens the generator power line from the generator.
• Within seconds, your generator system begins supplying electricity to the critical emergency circuits of your home or business. The transfer switch continues to monitor the utility line conditions.
• When the automatic transfer switch senses the utility line voltage has returned at a steady state, it re-transfers the electrical load back to the utility line and resumes monitoring for subsequent utility loss. The generator will continue to run for an engine cool-down period of several minutes while the entire system stands ready for the next power outage.

https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/generator-sets/Information-of-Starting-Battery-in-Diesel-Generator-Set.html

You didn't indicate, but I will assume when plugged into park power your 110V AC devices (Outlets/TVs/Microwave) work?

If so that isolates it to the genset or something up to your AC/Breaker distribution panel.

Things to check in the main power from the generator to electrical main AC distribution/breaker panel:.
Some type of Breaker off at the Genset (Blown fuse?)
Some type of toggle switch/transfer switch on the wrong position
If you have a auto transfer switch it might be stuck or defective
Loose connection or a connector coming loose
Defective wiring

im not sure are you asking about Phasing ? on a three phase gen set , yes extreme care needs be taken if you need to start one genset before shutting one off , in this case a Phase/sync meter will need to be used to keep from surging all the loads connected to genset , also all three phases of each genset needs to be "In sync" to be able to use a transfer from one genset to another , in sync refers to peek waveform on each genset, needs to be in perfect time or an "ARC" will occur , that could be detrimental to the connected loads if there sensative to this type

I'll assume you are isolating the main breaker that carries in current from the pole (this is called a service disconnecting means). By the term "main breaker" I'm assuming you are referring to a feeder disconnect; that is to protect the generator from over-current.
Under these assumptions, no, the generator has a circuit breaker capable of interrupting the circuit leading to the transfer switch. Under these conditions, you could view the genset's breaker as a "main".

Do you have power at the outlet where the unit is plugged in? If not restore power to that point. Next, check the main breaker to determine if it has tripped. It may look like it is on but to verify, turn it off and then back on. It should click into place. If that does not work and your trailer has a genset with a transfer switch. Check the transfer switch to make sure that it has not failed. It may be locked into the genset side and not switching back to shore power. If you are running the genset and do not have power make sure the breakers on the front of the genset are on.

The transfer switch is responsible for starting / stopping the generator. Check your auto - start circuit. It is 2 wires that go between the genset and ATS. They are generally normally open. When the genset is to shut down this circuit needs to change state.

Start looking at your safety circuits.

1. High water temp
2. Low Oil
3. Low water etc...

From the manual these are the protection circuits.

• Engine protection: low oil pressure, high engine temperature.
• Genset protection: under/over voltage, overload, battery charger failure, battery voltage out of limits,
under/over frequency, start failure.
• Circuit breaker protection: IV poles.
• Differential protection.


Any one of them will trip the fuel relay closed. What you may be able to do is disconnect one at a time each protection circuit and see when the fuel relay opens. (Make sure to reconnect each one if it had no effect on the fuel solenoid)

Once you isolate which circuit it is in then you can chase wires or change the bad switch.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

DO U HAV POWER FROM GEN ?

You should not have to switch between battery and generator, unless you are trying to use an inverter as well. Batteries are 12vdc, typically run lighting, water pump, furnace, fridge controls. Generator powers ac, microwave, television, and anything else that plugs into a 120vac wall outlet. Inverter may also run select loads, and possibly dedicated wall outlets, but not AC, fridge, or microwave (usually).

Most RVs / Motorhomes now have automatic transfer switches that will switch between the generator, shorepower, and possibly an inverter. Your coach is made during an era of transition from manual transfer switch (in form of heavy duty electrical outlet near shore power cord) and the automatic transfer switch.

There is no specific place where a transfer switch or generator receptacle are mounted on an RV. There are no rules or regulations tha cover this as far as I know. Your RV may also have an EMS (Energy Management System) that will control the transfer switch as well. EMS panels are typically located above the refrigerator or above driver / passenger seats in overhead compartment.

That sounds just about right, if the relay contacts get welded together it sometimes takes out the driver on the printed circuit board. As you found out, 12vdc from 23 to 194 makes the transfer switch move to the Generator position, relay not energized makes the ATS move to the Normal position.

You can make a nice test function by installing a 10 amp contact switch in series with either the N1 or N2 terminals. When the switch is open the generator thinks the Normal power has failed.

Regards,
Carl