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Richmond 60g40 32pf3 gas water heater pilot light button doesn't pop up

Posted by Rae Wooldridge on

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Tom Chichester

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  • Water Master
  • 57,444 Answers

Could be a gas valve defect

Posted on May 13, 2019

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tankless water heater pilot light will not stay on

It is most likely the water valve stuck open, telling the controls to heat water, that it thinks is flowing through it, but without actual flow it overheats. Depending on how comfortable you are with taking it apart yourself, you could open the valve to see if it just needs cleaned out, or if you have a ruptured diaphragm or some other cause.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

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co7196

Ned C Cook

  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: water wizard 10P pilot light keeps going out

If the thermocoupler is defective the gas to everything is shut off. The coupler is the bulb that sits ib the pilot flame If it doesn't heat up it will sense no pilot and shut the gas off. They don't cost much and are easy to change. Good Luck, Ned

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem 40 gallon gas hot water heater, pilot light

To make a short story long (I need to include all details, sry)…

I got up one morning and realized that we did not have hot water. I re-lit the pilot light and as soon as the burner went out from heating the water up, the pilot light would go out. After reading several posts regarding this issue, it seemed apparent that the thermo-coupler was the problem. Since I am a little bit handy around the house and very tight when it comes to opening my wallet, I bought the device from Lowe’s ($8.98) that was recommended by my online advisors and after a few googles, figured out how to change it. No help. The pilot light still goes out.

I gave up and went to Home Depot to purchase and schedule the installation of a new hot water heater.

STICKER SHOCK

A new Direct Vent type water heater costs around $800 with an additional $450 for “special” installation. Add a few fees to that and the grand total came to about $1450.

I felt like I had no choice since my wife and 2 daughters refused to live their life without hot water and I had no clue about how to fix the dam thing.

The plumber assigned to the installation stopped by to evaluate the site conditions and quickly noted to me that the 8 year old water heater tank was in good condition and that the gas controller was probably faulty, which could be purchased online from the manufacturer. I quickly cancelled the Home Depot order and purchased the controller for about $120 after shipping and tax. Immediately after the installation it seemed that the problem had been solved. A few days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and explained the situation and he recommended that I purchase another controller because the one that was shipped to me was probably bad. I searched around town and found a plumbing supply company that had the correct model in stock. Two days later the pilot light was out. I cleaned up the controller and returned it to the store and asked the plumber to please schedule a visit to repair this dam thing.

When the plumber arrived, he hooked up a gauge in several locations and confirmed that the correct amount of gas (cfm) was being delivered to the controller, pilot light and burner. He then proceeded to remove the fire box to make sure that the igniter, thermo-coupler and pilot tip were set properly. He inspected the pilot light tip and said that he found the problem. Using about a 1/64” tip drill (can be purchased at a welding supply store), he cleaned the tiny hole that releases gas to the pilot light. I felt a sigh of relief because I was certain that the problem had been solved. $65 dollars (plumber’s fee for an hour of work) and 4 days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and he said that the controller that I purchased online must be bad. Too embarrassed to return to the first plumbing supply store, I found another one in a different town that had the correct model in stock. Three days after changing the controller the pilot light went out. I returned the controller and a six pack later I decided to do some extensive googling.

The key term here is “DIRECT VENT”. This seems to be a very common problem with direct vent water heaters and I was about to find out the reason for this phenomenon. I read a post by an individual who wrote that if the vent becomes detached that the inflow of air can become contaminated and extinguish the pilot light. I decided that before I spent any more money on a plumber that I was going to take the vent apart and find out what makes it tick.

My direct vent system has 2 parts to the venting, an inner pipe (3” nominal diameter) that serves as the exhaust and the outer pipe (5” nominal diameter) that serves as the internal flow of air which supplies the pilot light and burner with oxygen. On the outside of the house a vent hood helps to segregate the two by extending the exhaust about 3” beyond the intake. I looked into the hood at the end of the pipes and discovered that the internal pipe which consisted of a 2 piece slip joint had come loose from the elbow that sets on top of the water heater. This slip joint pipe was not attached at any point with screws or clamps and was loosely setting over the elbow on one end and into the hood on the other end, allowing it to detach. Apparently, when atmospheric conditions were right, the burner idled down from heating up the water and extinguished the pilot light because the intake was saturated with CO2 from the connection failure.

I purchased a section of 3” pipe that was long enough to be installed in one piece. I connected it to the elbow using a stainless steel hose clamp. I had to disassemble the pipe 3 times to make adjustments to the length and position before I got it right, but I should not have any more problems with the pilot light.

The problem here is time. It takes a lot of time to get this right. When the plumbing contractors installed this unit during the construction of the house, there was no one around to make sure that they got it right. It is probably common to use a 2 piece slip joint type connection, but I feel like it should be attached with screws or clamps. In my opinion it is not rigid enough and can detach easily, especially if it is not installed properly. A one piece connection that is attached at one end with a hose clamp and then held in place at the other end by the hood is fool proof.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: i have a richmond gas hot water heater model

resetting your lock out for richmond power vent

Posted on Nov 26, 2009

john224

John Prohaska

  • 1378 Answers

SOURCE: Natural gas hot water heater not stying lit

Probably a bad solenoid in the gas valve. Higher voltage of a new thermocouple keeps it open longer but it still fails over a period of time. Look into a new gas valve for the water heater.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

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1 Answer

Have a richmond 6G40-36F1 hot water heater had to turn off gas for another issue, now igniter doesnt spark and pilot wont light


Not to sound silly, but are you pushing the igniter button down hard enough so it snaps? If so, your igniter is no good. Try to light the water heater the old fashioned way by using a match. I would use fireplace matches since they are long enough to reach the pilot light point.

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Richmond direct vent water heater


The pilot lights then heats/sends a signal to open gas for burner then(burner)should stay on but if valve shuts the gas off,then have your unit checked. What ever you do,DON'T MESS WITH IT IF GAS/FLAME ON!!!!!. These systems come with a safety feature that allows gas to go on only when safe!!!!

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AFTER LIGHTING MY RICHMOND 6G40-36F1 WATER HEATER IT LIGHT FOR A FEW SECONDS AND THE FLAME AND THE PILOT LIGHT GOES OUT. WHAT CAUSE THIS TO HAPPEN?


There is air in the gas line. The best way to get the air out, is with the gas on, loosen the nut that attaches to the gas valve and make sure you can smell a little gas, then reattach the gas line, making sure everything is tight, and then relight the pilot making sure to hold the pilot light button down for at least 1 minute. Please rate

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Pilot light on water heater goes out frequently and thermocouple has been replaced 3-4 times. Richmond 30 gal, gas, model 5V30T. Thank you


Check the following:

See if your heater has a pilot gas adjustment valve. It should be on the gas control valve somewhere. Not all heaters have these. It will be a screw on the valve that can be turned.

Make sure the thermocouple sensing bulb is squarely in the pilot flame and also check that the fitting where the other end of the thermocouple connects to the main gas valve is tight.

Check the pilot gas orifice (where the pilot gas comes out) for carbon build up - you may need to remove the pilot gas line and thermocouple assembly to get to this. This problem is pretty common.

Check the gas pressure to the heater. Run the hot water in the dwelling until the hot water heater starts. Check the flame on the main burner and see what color it is - it should be blue with possibly some yellow-tipped flames. If not, there could be a problem with the gas pressure at the heater or venting. If the heater has a gas pressure regulator, it may be out of adjustment or defective.

Finally, and this isn't very common, the pilot light can be extinguished if there is a draft problem, usually associated with an issue with the flue pipe venting system for the heater or another nearby gas consuming appliance.

Dec 31, 2009 | Audiovox Richmond 6G40-36F 6-Year Tall Gas...

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