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Anita James Posted on Apr 26, 2019

I was standing next to fridge, and all of a sudden a loud "explosion", magnet went flying off side of freezer, and when i looked inside, the inside wall of freezer is cracked. what would cause this

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RAMON

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  • Contributor 8 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 27, 2019
RAMON
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If the icemaker overfills with water even a little, there could be a problem ejecting the ice into the ice bin. The motor has a lot of torque and could crack the freezer wall or strip the gear teeth on the motor. Defrost completely and see if the icemaker will cycle properly.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1543 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 20, 2008

SOURCE: ge fridge

Most likely it is the defrost heater. (it's that thing at the bottom of the coils with two wires leading from it.) To test it for sure, you'd have to use an ohm meter, but many times you can visually see that the heater is bad. Defrost the coils with a hair blower. If you don't have the heater on hand, the refrig will work fine for a week until you can replace the heater.

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douglas smith

  • 1462 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 17, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool side by side refrigerator not defrosting.

take back panel off inside freezer. check continuity thro heater and thermal fuse in series with heater

Anonymous

  • 1239 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2008

SOURCE: Fridge stopped working, freezer still works

HI
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:

Step 1: 
Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: 
Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3: 
Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: 
Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

gaeb7

Dennis Gaebel

  • 36 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 01, 2009

SOURCE: hotpoint csx22bc 21.7 cu. ft. leaking water on freezer side

Look for obstruction at the drain tray for the freezer. Common to have plastic wrap sucked into that area.Or gunk in the drain line. Blow through line to insure the gunk is not an issue.

Anonymous

  • 25 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 12, 2010

SOURCE: GE side by side freezer shelves falling down

This appears to be a known problem with at least a couple of GE models (It has been happening in our freezer too). There is a GE Service bulletin at https://customernet.geappliances.com/OTIS/fs/home_images/REF01-10.pdf that seems to describe the fix as them sending out new shelves (and maybe someone to install them?)

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Fridge and freezer not cooling

When the refrigerator turns on, do you hear anything in the refrigerant lines? Does the compressor turn on? or does it just hum?

If the compressor is running, it lost refrigerant charge. They were not made to be serviced and lack service valves.

If there is just a loud hum, the compressor may be siezed, the start/run capacitor may have failed. or the magnetic starter failed.

A service call is a fair portion of a replacement not counting the parts.
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Freezer door pops open when the Refrigerator door is being closed

My new freezer did the same thing. I contacted the company and they went into the whole leveling thing. What it has to do with is the magnetic seal. The magnets are not strong enough to keep the freezer door from popping open when closing the big fridge door. They share the same duct. I level my doors on the fridge and freezer so they swing shut by themselves after opening. Just the force of the big door when it swung closed cracked open the freezer door about a quarter of an inch and if left unnoticed created a puddle and made the fridge run overtime. I solved the problem by placing strong magnets inside the fold of the magnetic seal at the handle end of the door. This is the flap on the outside the door seal. I used six magnets on the top and six on the bottom. The magnets were from discarded Sonicare tooth brush heads. They are very flat and super strong. You can find something on ebay. My freezer door doesn't budge problem solved. I did call the company and told them I solved the problem and they still insisted it was the leveling. Good luck, Art Knapp
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When we close the refrigerator door the freezer door pops open. It seems like a vacum problem?

My new freezer did the same thing. I contacted the company and they went into the whole leveling thing. What it has to do with is the magnetic seal. The magnets are not strong enough to keep the freezer door from popping open when closing the big fridge door. They share the same duct. I level my doors on the fridge and freezer so they swing shut by themselves after opening. Just the force of the big door when it swung closed cracked open the freezer door about a quarter of an inch and if left unnoticed created a puddle and made the fridge run overtime. I solved the problem by placing strong magnets inside the fold of the magnetic seal at the handle end of the door. This is the flap on the outside the door seal. I used six magnets on the top and six on the bottom. The magnets were from discarded Sonicare tooth brush heads. They are very flat and super strong. You can find something on ebay. My freezer door doesn't budge problem solved. I did call the company and told them I solved the problem and they still insisted it was the leveling. Good luck, Art Knapp
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Every time the refrigerator door is closed, the freezer door pops open. How can we better secure the seals?

My new freezer did the same thing. I contacted the company and they went into the whole leveling thing. What it has to do with is the magnetic seal. The magnets are not strong enough to keep the freezer door from popping open when closing the big fridge door. They share the same duct. I level my doors on the fridge and freezer so they swing shut by themselves after opening. Just the force of the big door when it swung closed cracked open the freezer door about a quarter of an inch and if left unnoticed created a puddle and made the fridge run overtime. I solved the problem by placing strong magnets inside the fold of the magnetic seal at the handle end of the door. This is the flap on the outside the door seal. I used six magnets on the top and six on the bottom. The magnets were from discarded Sonicare tooth brush heads. They are very flat and super strong. You can find something on ebay. My freezer door doesn't budge problem solved. I did call the company and told them I solved the problem and they still insisted it was the leveling. Good luck, Art Knapp
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Fan building ice on freezer side running loud

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GE fridge has loud clicking noise; model freezer on bottom.

The problem is the main control board on back of refrig . Relay bad and clicking . Have to replace the complete board .
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I have a whirlpool the refrigerator door will not stay close.

It shouldn't be pushing the door itself...you see the magnet that is used in the refrigerators are not repulsive.It doesn't get weaken that easily but what you can do is check if there isn't something bulging out of the fridge and pushing the door...take out all the things from inside and then try closing the door again. If door opens up again then definitely you have to look for a new gasket.
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My ge profile fridge won't stay cold. the fridge is at 45 deg.

First things first - pull the fridge/freezer out from the wall, and look at the bottom.  You should see a metal coil somewhere - it probably needs to be cleaned.  Next, somewhere around the compressor (the big bulky thing in the bottom of the freezer) should be a fan blowing on the coil - make sure it is running.  That MIGHT have been the buzzing noise you describe - dirt on the fan blades or the fan hitting something.  Additionally, you can check the fan on the inside of the freezer - if it is stuck and/or not working, the air won't circulate properly, and you'll get pockets of different temperatures in your freezer.
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This indicates that you do not have good airflow and return airflow between your freezer and refrigerator sections. That is why the pressure from closing one door is causing the other one to pop open.

Check the drain tube on the back of the machine to make sure it is not clogged or blocked with frozen water inside. Also check any return air flow vents inside the unit for clear ice.
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