My thermostat is only running once per hour - Heating & Cooling

It likely has a "cycles per hour" setting that may need some tweaking. Read the manual and possibly increase that setting. Don't go crazy, default is likely 5 maybe you need 7. Hope this helps.

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Most thermostat replacements are very easy DIY jobs I would say no longer than half hour

Have an electronic evaluation carried out, it's quicker and in the long run safes you frustration and cash.

Divide whatever it is you're measuring by the time. If something happens once an hour then it's frequency is once per hour, or equivalently 24 times per day or 168 times per week or 1/60 times per minute.

I cannot find a manual for the Darlac DW253.
It appears the timer is set by moving each selector knob.
http://www.watermate.co.uk/secure/uploads/DW253%20(Small)%20new%20darlac%20pop.jpg

Knob on right is Run Time:
This is how many minutes timer will run each time.
Set run time from 1 minute to 120 minutes.
Knob on right also has ON-OFF override.

Knob on left is Frequency:
This is how frequently the timer will turn ON. Once per hour, once per each 2 hours ... once per 24 hours ... once per 72 hour ... once per week.

So set frequency to 48 and set run time to 20, then every 48 hours the water will turn on for 20 minutes.
To turn timer off, move right knob to OFF.
For continuous watering, turn same knob to ON.

This timer is battery-powered, probably 9 Volt, but maybe AA.
Battery carriage appears to be located on front below the function knobs.
Typically, water timer batteries last one season.

Timer can be connected to household spigot, or connected to any passive water supply for example rain barrel or tank.
Appears to have standard female hose thread on top, or possibly 1/2 pipe thread, and quick connection on bottom.

Plastic water timer exposed to freezing temperatures can crack. Drain water out of timer during cold weather.
Generally if water timer stops working: replace battery, clean battery terminals, and if functionality is not restored, then buy another timer.

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If the blower only runs it is likely due to a dirty filter or too many vents blocked or closed. Sencondly if the furnace runs more than you remember before installing the new thermostat look for an adjustment (sometimes called heat anticipation) and select fewer cycles per hour, this will allow a little lower temperature before it comes on hence fewer cycles per hour.

this thermostat does not have a deadband option, the only other thing you can do is set the program for a different temp. the cycles per hour just restrict how many times the unit comes on.

Some programmable thermostats have a circulate feature. This feature will allow your fan to run approx. 20 minutes per hour. This will insure better circulation, a better balanced temperature throughout the home & better air quality do to more air filtration. Read your thermostat manual to see if your thermostat has this feature and how to turn it off if needed. Another possibility would be on an older furnace with a fan limit control. If the temperature settings are set to low on the fan limit (or if the control is malfunctioning) you could experience a fan that runs a lot even if the thermostat is off.

Most electric water heaters have 2 heaters - an upper and a lower, each with it's own thermostat. These are readily accessible by removing the screw covers on the side of the tank. Careful - the thermostats have 240VAC on the terminal screws (unless you have a small 120VAC heater) if the circuit breaker or fuses feeding the heater are still on - turn them off before proceeding. After removing the two screw covers and pulling back the insulation you will see temperature (screw) adjustments for the upper and lower thermostats, with a temperature indicating pointer attached to each screw. Set both thermostats to 125 degrees or so. Push the insulation back in place, replace the covers and turn the circuit breaker back on that feeds the water heater. You should have warm water within 15 minutes and hot water within a hour or so.

If the water still does not heat, then you have to troubleshoot to find the problem. With a voltmeter determine if 240VAC is actually getting to the water heater. Remember, the upper element has priority over the lower element, and if the water is cold, the upper element will try to turn on and this locks out the lower element (only one element is allowed to heat at any given time). The lower element comes on ONLY after the upper thermostat is satisfied. Therefore if the upper heating element is burned out you will never get any hot water. If you suspect this, TURN OFF THE POWER TO THE HEATER and take a resistance check of the upper element.

Someone did not program your thermostat to operate according to your heat and air requirements.
Have it programmed correctly.