Greedy table short and long straight stop working when I moved it. all the 4 areas are check to work. HOw do i fix it

1) Remove brushes
2) Remove 4 screws holding field assembly to the saw frame
3) Pull field off
4) The armature will then pull straight out (It may take some work to wiggle the bearing loose, but it will pull straight out)
5) Press bad bearing off & replace
6) Reverse process to reinstall

I assume you want to know how to get it adjusted just right, not how to move the outfeed table up and down. The easiest way I have found is to lay a metal ruler on edge on the outfeed table so that it extends over the blades. Slowly turn the blade forward by hand while you lower the outfeed table. Do that until the blade snags the metal ruler. Then raise the table until the blades just stop snagging the straight-edge.

Are you sure you have the bobbin the right way round in the holder....when you look at the bobbin and tug the thread, the bobbin should move clockwise.
Pull out the foot pedal and use bsr2 with the start/stop button.
Bring bobbin thread to top of work before starting to sew. This may help knotting problem

Check to see what pattern is selected. Be sure it isn't the buttonhole.Select straight stitch.Move the stitch length setting to 4.Turn the handwheel and see if the feed dogs move forward. Press the reverse lever and see if they move backwards. Select straight stretch stitch and turn the wheel to see if the feed dogs move forward and backward.Check the presser foot release on top of the machine and make sure there is pressure on the foot.
Sometimes the reverse assembly on this machine stops working because it has the wrong type of grease on it and it turns into a hard gummy mess that won't let it work.
sewman7

Check your power outlet, use UPS and then connected ur PC to it.

Inside the saw, on the end of the trunnion is a stop that is adjustable to zero the saw in to exactly 90 degrees. Either there is sawdust or something accumulated there or it needs to be adjusted. You say you cleaned it out, So you'll need to unplug it an have a look up in there. See how there's a geared piece of steel that moves when you crank the saw over to 45 degrees. Usually there's a bolt or stud with a locking nut on it, either on the trunnion itself or the lower surface of the table top. You need to break the nut loose and screw the bolt in or out to adjust, then crank the saw over to hit it, check for square with a known square, crank it all the way out of the way and readjust, etc. Until you get it right. Make sure to tighten that lock nut when you're done.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!

Sometimes you just have to shim them. If you've worked the gibs and can't get any more adjustment out of them, you might try buying some thin brass or copper metal stock (you can get it in rolls at Hobby Lobby) and use it as a shim to hold the table in the appropriate position.
It sounds crude, but that was the only way I managed to get my industrial 6" powermatic to true up.
Also bring the infeed table up to zero, aligned exactly with the outfeed table and check with a known true straightedge. This will help you to keep a clear idea in mind of which direction to move things when you're making adjustments.
If you can get the edges and diagonals straight, you're well on your way to straight cuts.
Make sure beforehand that the surface you're fixing to is flat and you're not clamping the machine down in a way that's torqueing the base.
Castings just aren't rested long enough these days before the surfaces are ground, and things twist a bit sometimes. You may be working with a surface not flat, and unable to get it perfect.
Good luck. I hope that helps a little.
You may need to use an auxiliary roller stand to support the outfeed of long boards to keep the weight from causing a droop that lifts the tail off the tables and prevents a straight cut.

pls you have to identify which area is short circuit, there for remove the 4 pin plug and power on. of power on ,it is telling your cpu section (VRM Circuit is short) it may faulty cap or transistor , bit I found more than 80% is shorted north bridge.
it was not fixed. but you have to test all coils to identify which section mos fets are short, remove the cpu to isolate north bridge , check vrm circuit,

Replace it. I work in sales for Whirlpool. It sounds like the door switch is either sticking or shorted. Also because your turntable continues to run it sounds like a short. Microwaves are a unit we only recommend an authorized technician to work on due to the microwaves it uses.

The cost of a new one is usually easily half or more the cost of repairing it.

Average service call just to give you an estimate is 80-90$

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