Question about LG Refrigerators
My best idea...
Try the compressor start CAPACITOR...
which is usually pretty INEXPENSIVE...
You are likely looking at a CONTROL BOARD or a REPLACEMENT compressor which is expensive and really expensive (respectively).
Let's hope not
I tried to look up your GR-B206GTQA number but got
no USA (domestic) responses...
Some of our part houses like
appliancepartspros.com have some VERY EXCELLENT
video guides.. and customer FORUMS.
Try searching on your LOCAL internet for so RELEVANT
spares suppliers and possible ADVICE.
Happy hunting and good luck
Posted on Mar 22, 2019
Defrost the unit for two days with the doors open...I know you're going to lose your contents. You may have ice on the coils internally. Next make sure you've cleaned the external coils under the unit. Leaving liquids open inside the unit or setting it colder than required will both cause issues like the ones you've got. Also, be sure all air vents inside the unit are unblocked and the door closes tightly all around.
Posted on Mar 09, 2008
OK now I'm wondering are theses numbers your getting 4 -9 the actual temps of the refrigerator and the freezer? and do they feel this cold and correct to you? I know the refrigerator side shouldn't be below 34 or so and definitely not below 32. If this is correct and the numbers are not settings but temps. (Now if you have a touch pad its electronic. If it has knobs it has a separate defrost and thermostat and are electro-mechanical)
If electronic Your control board and possibly defrost control are out.
It would more likely be the sensors going to the board(s) It will both sensors have the possibility of causing your problem. 1 will control the run of the compressor (and this one could and probably is connected to the inside coil) and 1 will control the air damper tween the refdg and freezer compartments, and may turn on the inside fan operation too.
(this would be my first suspect if these are degrees numbers). Look at the thermostat control see if it is attached to the indoor coil (usually the tube leavign the indoor section. If its not attached its not sensing the coil temp and when goes into defrost wala its not senmsing temps like its designed to do. Look for a broken clip or possible a plastic wire tie that holds this sensor in place.
Please get back to me with what you see - find on this look up.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
How to check everything
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp .
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
well i have the exact same refrigerator but opposite problem.... the freezer works but the entire refridgerator is a freezer....why is the fridge part freezing everything. This appeared to happen after the power went out and the entire fridge is a freezer now.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
Look at item 4 on this picture for location of the defrost timer. You will need to rotate it with a flat head screwdriver and you should hear a click to see if your compressor starts. On the first picture above about 0.5 inch from the top from the 12 o'clock position is the dial that you will need to rotate It should be mounted horzintally in the top of your food section. The dial could be white or black. It has 2 tabs on it and can only be rotated in the direction that the tabs would be engaged by a flat head screwdriver. Turning it backwards will result in having to replace the defrost timer straight away. So again rotate this dial and see if your compressor starts.
If it starts then you have either a bad defrost timer or 60 deg F thermostat in the freezer section coils.
If it does not start then you can have a bad compressor relay, run capacitor or the compressor itself has failed. If the compressor is hot and you hear a hum from the compressor for about 30- 45 seconds it could be any one of the 3 above.
I would be willing to go out on a limb here and say you most likely have a defrost circuit problem.
There is a remote possibility that you had a one time instance of the defrost timer sticking but on an older unit If it stuck once it will most likely stick again in the future.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
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