Question about Electric Electrical Supplies
take a look at the fuse...if it seemed burnt then replace it.
then check the breaker...try connectting your voltmeter directly to the wire that goes into the breaker(directly to the +) and the other side to the regular (-).
if it read 220 volts then the breaker is down...so replace it...or you can use the outlet directly.
however if it didn't read any voltage,
then you should check the brushes...they are right next to the AVR module...(the two wires that come out of the AVR are connected to the brushes)
if the brushes are shattered or if there is no connection between each brush and it's connector then replace the brushes..
but if they seemed fine.then your problem is with the wires...trace every wire and check for continuity.
the problem has to be one of the things i mentioned.
Posted on Oct 30, 2009
SOURCE: how can i reduce the
The revolutions per minute are probably too high. You will need the appropriate screwdriver and a volt meter to adjust. Possibly have another person help you. Connect the volt meter to the output with the generator running. Locate the speed adjusting screw on the carburator and adjust it one way or the other until the voltage on the voltmeter reads 125volts. Before yoy begin adjusting the carburator take note the position of the screw and then count the turns in the event you have to return to the place you started.
Posted on Sep 10, 2011
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and cranking the engine or by pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
Take a picture for later reassembly.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper and or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of sharp instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line/s condition...after a while they will degrade and need replacement.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing or take a picture of how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also a good time to take a picture for later reference for reassembly.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me
Posted on Oct 31, 2012
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 21, 2018 | Electric Electrical Supplies
Oct 28, 2016 | Electrical Supplies
Dec 25, 2014 | Honda Black Max 7000 / 8750 Watt Portable...
Jul 13, 2014 | Coleman Powermate 7,000 Watt 13 Hp...
Apr 02, 2010 | Pramac GBW30P Encl Diesel Genset w/Perkins...
Oct 28, 2009 | Electrical Supplies
Oct 19, 2008 | Coleman Powermate 7,000 Watt 13 Hp...
137 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: