Question about Stanley Measuring Tools & Sensors
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Stanley stud
The 77-110 does not detect electrical wiring. The model 77-720 model does detect electrical wiring but not the 77-110. You must first place the stud finder against the wall, press the button and wait for the light and audio signal to stop. Once this happens the unit is calibrated and while still holding the button down, you then move it across the wall to find the studs. Problem is that this unit is very unreliable and does not work as advertised most of the time. It has a lifetime warranty so my advice is to take it back and get a refund if possible. I have tried many stud finders an most are not reliable and cannot be depended on 100% of the time and this Stanley is one of the worst. The best inexpensive stud finder I have found is the Gardner Bender stud seeker at around $12.
Posted on Sep 20, 2010
F35 is a water level error.
The water level switch (pressure switch) has malfunctioned.
If you remove the top panel, three screws in the back, you will have access to the pressure switch.
With the tub empty, remove the vinyl hose from the switch and blow backwards through the hose to clear any restrictions.
If the fault codes return after doing this, you will likely need to replace the pressure switch.
Also - please be sure to use He soap.
The "SUDS" or "SUD" error can be caused by too much detergent, improper detergent, drain pump/drain line problem, or pressure switch malfunction.
1. If you are not using HE detergent, you need to be. These washers are designed to use HE detergent which is formulated for wash tubs that use 5 to 7 gallons of water. If you use regular detergent, you are, in affect, placing a higher concentration of detergent in the washer that is normally formulated for wash tubs that have a 35 gallon capacity. The manufacturer should have a disclaimer in the owner's manual explaining this. In most cases this will also void your warranty. NOTE: Prolonged use of the wrong detergent can damage the drain pump components and or wash tub seals.
If you are using the correct detergent, double check the label to make sure it is not double (2X) or triple (3X) concentrated. You could still be placing too much soap in your wash.
To get rid of excessive detergent, place the washer on a RINSE & SPIN cycle, then run it through a normal wash cycle with NO detergent added. You may have to repeat these steps depending on the amount of detergent used.
2. If you do not have a detergent issue, double check the drain pump and drain lines to ensure they are not obstructed in any way. Click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:
Obstructions in the drain pump and/or drain lines can attribute to air getting trapped in the drain pump and cause the error code. Double check all electrical connections to the drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). You will need to remove the top panel of the washer to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, slide the panel back, then off. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the center of the washer. The Drain Pump connector will be the 6th connector (facing from the front L to R) in the center of the CCU.
3. Check the Pressure Switch to ensure it is good. The Pressure Switch is located to the right of the CCU as you are looking from the front. It is a small cylindrical shaped device with a connector plug and an air hose attached. The switch can be checked at several water levels by removing the plug and taking resistance readings at the connector pins. Readings are as follows:
(Pins are numbered R to L facing the from the REAR)
Pins 1 to 2 (SUDS Detect) - 0 ohms
Pins 3 to 4 (Overflow) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 5 (L1) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 6 (Empty) - 0 ohms
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Posted on Sep 26, 2010
I think you might have confused the calibration set up in the first step of the directions. This must be done each time the unit is powered on, placed on a different wall, or whenever it is providing ambiguous indications. For you convenience, I have pasted the operation manual below. You should download and review the entire manual - free of charge here.
1) Hold the Stud Sensor 50 flat against the surface making firm contact.
2) Press in and hold the activation button. The green
and red LED's will light. When the red LED goes off,
the unit is calibrated. Keep holding the activation button
during all of the following procedures.
Note: While calibrating, the Stud Sensor 50 must not
be placed directly over a stud, dense material such as
metal, or over a wet or newly painted area, or it will not
properly calibrate. If the Red LED stays lit, move to
a different location and try again.
2) Slide the Stud Sensor 50 slowly across the surface
in a straight line. As it detects a stud edge, the red LED
will go on.
Use the handy pencil notch located at the top of the
unit to mark the stud edge.
3) Repeat the above steps from the other side of
the stud. Coming from the opposite direction, mark
the other edge of the stud. The midpoint of the two
marks indicates the stud center.
Cautions on Operating
The proximity of electrical wiring or pipes to the surface
of the wall may cause the Stud Sensor 50 to detect
them as studs. You should always use caution when
nailing, cutting or drilling in walls, ceilings and floors
that may contain these items. Always remember that
studs or joists are normally spaced 16 inches or 24
inches apart and are 1-1/2 inches in width. To avoid
surprises be aware that anything closer together or of a different width may not be a stud.
I hope this helps & good luck!
Posted on Aug 21, 2012
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