Question about Altec Lansing Audio Players & Recorders
SOURCE: how to repair atp3 altec lansing
Best bet would be to just strip the wire with a wire stripper or utility knife and twist the bare ends together to fix the connection. A little electrical tape around those wires and you should be almost good as new. Of course you might notice some difference in quality but I'm pretty sure the only way round that would be replacing the cable.
Try it out and let me know how it works out for you. If you know how to solder it might be a good idea to solder the connection as well.
Posted on Jan 05, 2008
SOURCE: Altec Lansing ada745 fuse
Yes, it's a 1A 250V glass fuse, 0.75" (1.9cm) long. The only other number on the fuse is "239", if that means anything. You take it out by putting a flat screwdriver in the slot on the fuse holder cap, turn counter-clockwise, and pull out once it releases.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
Your adapter is Part No. AVX300-A6859, Model No. 9701-00748-IUND.
Or You could get a universal that is rated for output of 18volt DC, 650ma, Center Positive.
I have used a 15volt DC, 900 ma with no problem, but I never run the volume high.
Posted on Dec 04, 2008
Hello. I figured it out. You probably have a computer that only has one AUDIO OUT jack or headphone jack. Take the wire with the green plugs (1/4") and put one end in the AUX jack on the front of the Altec subwoofer and the other in your audio out or headphone jack. After turning on the power switch on the back of the Altec subwoofer, you'll see the green indicator light next to the AUX jack on the subwoofer blink and then come on steadily. YOU MUST HIT THE AUX BUTTON on the remote control, or you won't hear anything. (Make sure your PC's audio is set to line out, if it doesn't recognize the speakers automatically.) This is the same way you hook up an MP3 player or portable CD player, etc.
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
I've managed to fix the amp in the ADA995 when I blew the rear channel amp. There is a design fault with the voltage regulator that causes it to run very hot, which frys the plastic housing glued near it, which corrodes the circuit board trace.
Getting the sub/amp apart is a *****. But doable. You need to not only remove the screws in the back under the flat grills, but ALSO 3 screws behind the top speaker that also hold the amp in place. And getting the power supply out is another rather difficult procedure, which is needed if you want to run the amp on the bench to troubleshoot.
The amp chips are available, though no NTE equivalent, and replaceable.
Posted on Apr 22, 2012
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