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check the ecu connection, its common on them if the seal goes, also if its ok and none of the connections are green etc, check the wiring with a meter from the ecu wires to the o2 sensor. they can become brittle over time.
disconnect the speaker wires from the amp, and check for power. there is no resetting, other than simply turning the amp off and back on. if it powers up fine without the speaker/sub(s) connected, check your wiring and check the ohms with a meter. if you do not find a problem there(should read within 1ohm of how you wired it) then check for dc voltage coming out of the speaker terminals on the amp. should also check that the amp is getting good power and ground. if wiring and speaker(s) check out okay, then the amp is damaged. if you get dc voltage from the speaker terminals, the output transistors are shorted out and it needs to be repaired by a tech.
if your hazard lights stay on, you may have a problem with the hazard switch on your stearing collum. try moving it back & forth several times, eg. on, off, on, off always ending @ off & see if that works. they do get sticky @ times. your brake lights will work but your turn signals won't work properly with the hazard switch turned on. let me know if problem persists & will see if i can help you more. good luck.
First check to see if your'e getting power to the amp by using a test light and touch the main power(12V battery) connector on the amp, test light should come on since it's constant 12v supply. Now turn on the radio and test the remote wire connector on the amp and you should have 12V(test light should come on). Also make sure that you have a good connection with your ground wire, check both connection points to make sure it's good. Now if you have power where your'e suppose to and when your'e suppose to and the amp does not power up, then it may be time for a new amp. Try wiggling the connections at the amp a bit, the solder may be cold/loose.
There could be a problem with the battery. A fast check to determine whether you have a problem with the power
adapter, power cord or the laptop's battery is to turn off the laptop,
remove the battery, connect the power adapter, turn on the laptop &
see if it works.
If the laptop works directly from the power adapter
with the battery removed, then the power adapter is good. In this case
we can suspect that the battery is defective & needs to be replaced.
If this did not work, try also disassembling the laptop & make sure
that all main components are seated properly. Also make sure that all
ribbon cables interconnecting the various components of the laptop are
The first thing I would suggest is to check all connections to the amp and speakers, especially the ground. A loose ground can cause the problem listed. You can test this by temporarly running a ground from the amp to the battery neg. . If the amp fires up ok then that means your grounding point for the amp should be checked and cleaned and reattached firmly. If you have a meter(multitester) set it to ohms and check the impedances of the voice coils in the woofers. If one is cooked it may be shorted and tripping the amps protection. Always hook thing up with the sys off and then turn on and test.
Disconnect all speakers, then turn the amp on. If there is no internal problem with the amp, it will go green. If it does go green, reconnect your speakers one at a time with the amp off then turn it on. when you connect the speaker that's causing the problem, the amp will go into protection. At this point, it's one of two things, a bad speaker wire (screw thru it or touching another terminal) or a bad speaker(burnt voice coil) to test that wire, disconnect the wire at the speaker and turn on the amp, if it's still green, all's well in the wire department. Meter the speaker with a multimeter on resistance, if it's blown the meter will read 1.... If you don't have a meter, connect the speaker that's having the problem to the other channel and test again, if it goes into protection, you've got your answer. Bad speaker. Hope this helps
Sisnce you didn't mention the protection LED, I'll assume it's not on.
You need to measure the voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amplifier to confirm that the voltage at the terminals is least 11 volts. Also check the voltage on the remote turn-on terminal. Place the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and set the meter to DC volts.