My Variosix (aka Polysix) lightmeter's battery compartment won't open. How do I open it?
I recently found a Gossen Variosix Electric light meter (also known as the Gossen Polysix) at a thrift store. Unfortunately, the battery compartment won't open. I turn the thing on the bottom but the compartment does not loosen.
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To open the Polaroid if045 , you will see a sliding lever on the bottom, slide that little lever to the back of the camera while at the same time ,sliding the battery cover to the right , this will open the battery cover.
S-76 and G13 are the battery type. It's most commonly known as an LR44 but is also called G13A, LR1154, L1154, RPX675, D76A, V13GA, PX76A, PX675A, GPA76, 1128MP, 1166A, depending on who makes them and is a really cheap alkaline (aka manganese dioxide) 1.5v cell.
A strip of ten of them can be bought online for as little as £1 (US $1.70).
Make sure the battery lid is securely screwed on, The meter wont work before the '1' frame. i just found out last week about this. make several clicks till the '1' mark appears, now check the meter if its working. [A] - aperture prio
I had a similar problem, Mine turned out to be a weak cell in the battery. Here is what I did to find it. First, check what postion is the dome light switch in when this problem happens?
Disconect the negitive battery terminal. connect a volt, ohm, amp, meter in series between the negative battery terminal, and the disconected negative battery cable. How much voltage is showing on the meter? open the door does the voltage go up, or does it drop off?
Close the door wait 30, 40 second voltage should start to decrease back down to 0. This is normal the dome light uses a module to control the dome light delay.
If the voltage does not drop down to zero with the door closed after a min. or 2, select the amp setting in your meter, read the amperage draw. This is what drains the battery, the higher the amperage reading the quicker the battery will drain.
With the meter still hooked up remove one fuse at a time, when the amperage drops off you have found the defective circuit.
These were very cheap lightmeters when sold new and as such were not designed to be serviced.
You aroused my curiosity so I've just tried opening a scrap one and it appears to be glued together, I tried my usual method of cracking along the join line but as the plastic appears to be a type of bakelite the casing cracked instead.
If you want to open this meter I'd recommend using a razor saw around the join line to separate the casing halves. Afterwards I'd recommend using epoxy resin to rejoin the two halve.
Capitol and tundra plus a few more all made this same light meter.
In this manual it is under tundra d-3b. hope this helps.
http://www.evergreen.edu/media/ml/pdfs/l_lightmeters.pdf
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