Question about Cycling
You need a new crank arm. If you ride with the nut loosened what happens is the square part of the bottom bracket shaft wears the hole out in the aluminum crank and it no longer fits snugly no matter how much you tighten it down.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
Yes guys, I spent 5 hours on this. You know what the problem is? Its the HackShield Pro software this game uses. Everytime you start the game you will see HackShield Pro starting up. This shild treats a gamepad as a "hacking tool". Every online game these days is protected with such shields; another example is PunkBuster. To by pass this shiled is a pain in the ****. It needs scripting and thats not legal anyways.
The only way around this is to contact HackShield and ask them to add your profiler software to their whitelist. Read the last answer in this topic for more info:
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
Dish washer does not drain. Checked for food being stuck anywhere. removed wash arm and plastic housing and checked for any type of blockage. Dishwasher hardly used.
Posted on Nov 17, 2009
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Richard, please exercise caution when working on belts on your engine. If you haven't already I would suggest disconnecting the negative battery terminal to ensure nothing will move when your hands are in the belt area. Your question did not indicate what type of Toyota or year it is. I have a two type of belt answer:
On my 87 Toyota truck, the "V" belt idler for my AC pump was adjusted by loosening the nut in the center of the pulley wheel, then adjusting a bolt behind the idle pulley in or out as needed. Turing the bolt moves the pulley in or out depending on what way you turn it. When the belt is tight, you then lock the pulley in place by tightening the bolt in the center of the pulley. My alternator was the belt tensioner for the second belt. The top nut would allow the alternator to move, but you also had to loosen the lower bolt and nut under the alternator to allow it to pivot on that bolt. The top nut was tightened when the desire belt tension was achieved. The lower bolt is tightened back as well. Over tightening the belt can put extra wear on the alternator and water pump bearings, so use caution.
If your vehicle is newer, the belt might be flat or a serpentine belt type. These types of belts are kept tight by a spring load from the idler pulley. The spring is inside the round housing part of the idler arm. That end is usually attached to the engine. The pulley is on the swing part of the arm and is used to apply tension to the belt to keep in on all the other pulleys. In the casting, you will see a square hole for your 3/8" socket wrench to fit into. This allows you use your wrench to release the tension from the belt. The spring and movement of the arm applies the required tension to the belt and does not need to be adjusted, but just inspected every so often to make sure they still move. In your vehicle engine area, you might have a small diagram showing the route the belt takes through your accessories on the engine. When the pulley arms get old, they can stick and not apply the proper tension to the belt. The belt does stretch when it first is used and when it gets older. Your new belt circumference might also be too big now and the pulley arm might be at its limit of travel. I would suggest taking it back to who did the work to have them correct this. You can check the tension by pressing down on the belt between two pulleys and note the movement of the idler pulley arm. The pulley arm should move back when your release hand pressure to the belt.
I hope this helps. Please leave feed back if this was useful to you. Thank you.
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