What do I use to clean my nose ring? - Clothing Accessories

This is a pretty complex tool to tear down, make sure you're up for it.
1) you need to remove the bit holder assembly (#21-30) by prying the rubber seal off on the end, sliding the sleeve off, removing the hog ring, and then the 2 pawls along with the remainder of the bit holder parts.
2) In the nose of the tool behind the bit holder is a large snap ring (#154) that must be removed.
3) Remove the screws on the gearcase cover on the top (#873) and remove the cover.
4) The entire barrel assembly will slide out of the nose (This is generally not easy)
5) Using an o-ring pick or small screwdriver through the holes on the side of the barrel you can reach another hog ring on the inside - once released you can push the striker and hammer out from the nose out toward the piston end.

I would install a service kit and fresh oil if you decide to open this up Bosch 11241EVS 0611241739 Rotary Hammer Parts

take the nose ring out
apply a strong antiseptic solution to the wound
throw the ring in the bin before the infection gets so bad that you loose part or all of your nose

Jerry,
I sent you a request because I don't know if iam getting all of the question and bugging me. But Nose 's I know. I just don't know what you have? did the oring squish out or something or is it just leaking air from the nose? so if you just want to replace it you will have to remove the bolts that hold the nose on should be hex most are I work at thomasindustrialsupplyinc.com so most of the things like bostitch have mm hex bolts although some have torx. But take off the guards and you should expose all the bolts. if its a bigger gun ( stick or coil) you'll have to remove the magazine. but no big deal. just keep all the parts segregated and don't lose anything will come off pretty smooth. the bolts will require a bit of effort depending on again the size of gun. I have found like the bigger ones take the 6mm hex while the finish take the 3mm hex and while the little ones are less tight sometimes strip the head. but the bigger guns may require a torch to the side to warm up and deactivate the threadlocker they put on the bolts. And depending on how the Nose is attached some have an oring that just sits in a groove while others have a ring that sits snuggly around it. If its one that sits in groove, add some light lease to it and that will be enough to hold it in place when you are assembling it .
If air is leaking its not the nose oring because the air shouldn't get that far down until its fired. so it could be other orings like around the spacer ring or the driver/ piston oring.
keep us posted

First check the O-rings/ seals on the piston, clean gum or dirt from the piston then bleed the brakes. Check for leaks, particularly around the piston. I think that there was a ring of dirt built up around the piston and when you pushed the piston in the dirt rolled or ripped the pistons o-ring.

empty the bowls, fill with cool water and flush. remove the top and the bowls. wash any residue on the bows with mild soapy water and a soft sponge. do not use a scotchbrite pad. same with the augers and the evaporator barrel. put food safe lubricant (i.e. superlube) on the shaft, the auger nose, and the spigot rings and reassemble.

Did you replace the complete trigger valve? Is that where it is leaking from? If it leaks from the nose or bottom of the gun that is likely one of three o-rings that seal it to the nose. Items 11, 13, and 27 on this parts diagram. If it leaks a lot of air from the head then that is either head valve o-rings or the cylinder seal (item 9).

N59FN parts diagram

you can first try "tapping" on the cap with a soft hammer while air plugged in to seat the cylinder and if the air doesn't go away then you might have pinched an o ring while assembling. Also while assembling did you lube the o rings so that they slide and don't roll out of the grooves. Let me know if you need more assistance.

check for a bent driver or possibly a jammed nail in the nose area.

There are a few possibilities for your problem.
1. Check the upper and mid oring (if applicable) for damage. If damaged or worn then the chamber will not seal and the pin will not retract.
2. The 4 finger valve located on the cylinder must be SPOTLESS, i change the valve plate on every service.
3. I assume you removed the piston and cleaned the bottom of the cylinder and cleaned the rings on the piston.

check these 3 items and if it does not work follow up and i will do my best to help

Hi,
Your nose is bent. You have to buy the whole cylinder sleeve and also a new lower probe.
It`ll run you about $130 in parts.
Fell free to ask any questions.