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Please check make sure it’s not the lever get stuck or broken on one side in that activates your switch for the water with any luck they still making a part for it
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Your water filter, if you have one installed, is located in the light housing of the top shelf. It is easiest to take your food off of the top shelf and remove the shelf to get easy access to it. I normally place a towel under it to catch any drips. If you do not see the canister hanging down then the bypass is likely installed. This is not a filter and can be used if no filter is desired. The "change filter" light will go off after a certain amount of time, or usage regardless if the filter,or bypass is installed.
Chances are the cherry swirch/ silinoid. Behind the dispenser is sticking. You may also have a problem with the fill hose. UNPLUG fridge and remove the fountain assembly an examine the cherry switch and the hose. If you dont unplug the fridge while trying this you will be shocked. Ive done in a couple times it hurts.
If you have anymore questions or need further assistance please comment me back and include your complete model number off the sticker inside on the fridge wall.Not on the door panel or owners book.
Dispenser controls on any refrigerator actuate one of two things. Ice disp, or water disp. If the IM is not working also, then H20 valve is bad. If just the H20 disp feature isn't working in the door, try this: remove food and unplug unit for 24 hours. Then, plug back in and resume normal operation. If all checks ok, you have a frozen water tank, or frozen water line. Fix: on certain model ref's, there is a water tank service flash where an antifreeze insulation kit should be installed, contact Sears or your retailer for this information. On others, this is simply a freeze up caused by lack of H20 usage or temps in ref/freezer set too low. If this does not fix the water supply, and you still have ice production after 2-5 hours after restarting the ref, remove the dispenser cover and test the water supply actuator switch for continuity. of open after drepression, replace switch. If switch checks ok, then replace water valve as on side of the solonoid valve assy is not functioning. In rare cases, you may have to check or replace the wiring harness. This can be tested only after elimenating the disp switch test, and calling for H20 from the disp, voltage at the disp wires to the H20 valve, but no voltage recieved at the h20 valve, or by an ohm reading of the wires.
When you order the new replacement, did you ask the supplyer whether it can be replace the old panel? Sometime the wireing inside is different, I do not suggest you touch it unless you got the panel is completely same size and same founction and you know how? Otherwise it is a headache.
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