Attempting to replace the flutter valve is ambitious and may be a ticket to a more expensive repair. First you need to locate the valve and then decide if you have the tools and skill to attempt the job. I would look at the manufacturer's website for an exploded view of the water heater and then go to your water heater and check it out. You will need to seal the threads on the line the valve is attached to, so a trip to a plumbing shop or a hardware store is also in order. By the time you pay for the sealant and your time and effort in finding the part you may be money ahead to leave this to a pro. The only web references I could find for the name and model of your water heater were in Indonesian, so good luck finding English translations of their technical materials.
SOURCE: Water is either hot or cold - no in between.
I found a way to get warm water in the shower, but I'm not sure it qualifies as a solution. After trying everything else I thought that maybe when I was feathering the faucet in the shower toward the cold side so I would get warm water that at a certain point it blocked the flow on the hot water side enough so that the sensor in the hot water heater sensed there was no demand in the line and it shut the water heater off. To test this, I went to the kitchen and turned the kitchen sink faucet all the way to the hot side and then turned it on so that I got a small flow of water. I waited for the water to get hot to be sure the hot water heater was working. Once it was hot, I left it running to keep demand in the line and then I went to the shower and turned the faucet on. When the water got hot I started feathering the control towards the cold side and soon I had warm water. So I think I'm right in that the sensor in the hot water heater was shutting the water heater off when the demand in the shower was lowered to a certain point when I was trying to adjust the water temp in the shower.
So now I can get warm water, but it means I have to leave the hot water running at another fixture in the house to create a false demand in the system so the hot water heater doesn't shut down. Is there a way to adjust the senor in the hot water heater so that it will stay on when I'm using the shower only, so I don't have to waste water by running another faucet when I want to take a shower?
SOURCE: New water heater, shower hot then only warm water in 5 minutes
try this, set the bottom therostat if it is electric , 10 degrees hoter than the top is set , if gas have no ideas
SOURCE: Water heater has hot water in it but cold water is still flowing
Nothing wrong with waterheater. Did you perhaps reverse hot/supply lines on new shut off valves?? try reversing lines. Maybe
Please rate. Thanks jj505
SOURCE: no hot water
You may need a circulating pump but I can't explain why it was fine before and not now. What I would do is turn the supply off to the water heater along with the power, remove the outlet supply. Open all hot side faucets in the home, using compressed air blow through the pipes if the air comes back at you, then there is a blockage before the hot manifold. If air moves, shut one faucet off at a time to try and determine where the culprit is. I don't know what else to tell you other than that. If air moves through the faucet every time, then you may want to put a circulating pump on. The only other expination is that when they repaired the pipe, some debris or eccess solder is blocking the hot supply. I have seen rocks in units as well. Because of the fix, you may want to take apart each faucet in the house and using a flashlight, look in the hot supply side to see if you can find any debris in those as well. Its not unusual after a repair, to have debris caught in them. Hopefull this helps.
SOURCE: I have a BOSCH 425N
You need to have the flow switch looked at. The low flow of the water to the lavs and the kitchen sink, they all have as small demand next to t bath or shower,
Tom
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