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John Edwards Posted on Jan 07, 2019

I have a Kenmore (Whirlpool) HE Top loading washer model 1102613412. It works okay but it clicks during agitation when it gets to the end of the "swish" range.

On agitation the agitator goes forward full range - back full range- click - forward full range. . . Repair shop changed gearcase and it's actually worse now with a rattling sound occasionally. Does not make the sound when agitating and filling with water, or when it does a shorter range agitation. Help is appreciated! Thanks!

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Doug Burke

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  • Posted on Jan 08, 2019
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Could be a "clutch" problem. It's a cheap part that regulates the agitator. It gets worn down over time. Google it for your model. I was ready to replace my washer but rescued it with a $10 part. You remove the top of the agitator and drop in a new clutch, which is a ring with four polypropylene balls attached.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 641 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 06, 2007

SOURCE: washer will not agitate

A wears out clutch might prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. Good luck!

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Anonymous

  • 5911 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2008

SOURCE: Kenmore top loader Model 110.20712990

It could be the coupler, but I doubt it. More commonly, this is the symptom of a gearcase (transmission) going bad. Couplers typically just snap off or the center hole rounds out causing it to slip. The result: the washer will fill and drain, but will not agitate or spin. The telltale sign of a bad gearcase is the grinding noise you mentioned and the requirement for you to assist the spin under a load. In addition, if you inspect under the washer, sometimes the gearcase will begin to leak a honey colored oil. You may find droplets under the washer, and in extreme cases, you may find spray patterns along the interior cabinet walls.

Now before the sense of panic sets in, replacing a gearcase on this model washer is not that difficult and it can be accomplished by the average do-it-yourselfer with some guidance. I have a link that explains step-by-step how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Read through the link thoroughly and see if this is job that sounds like you wish to attempt on your own. No special tools are required. A screwdriver set and socket set is all you should need.

A replacement gearcase can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and locate item number 9 under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading. The part number is 3360629. If you are going to replace the gearcase, it is also recommended that you replace the motor coupling as well. The coupling is listed under the same heading as item number 13 (part number 285753A). You can also check out repairclinic.com to see if they carry the parts any cheaper. Use the part numbers provided. I will post the link that explains how to replace the coupling as well:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

Many of the steps are a repeat, but I try to be thorough. Some of the original motor couplings that came from the manufacturer would not last long under constant use, because they were made entirely of plastic. The manufacturer modified this part to include a steel grommet that makes it much more durable. The new part is listed with the part on the website, and included in the link I provided.

NOTE: If you do order a replacement gearcase make sure you follow the instructions on the outside of the box. There should arrows indicating that the gearcase needs to be shiped in the UPRIGHT position. If not, transmission oil will leak.

I hope you find this information helpful. The staff asks us to refrain from direct contact with the consumer and only allows us to answer questions in this forum. I hope you don't mind. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Dec 20, 2008

SOURCE: Kenmore 80 Series Top Load Washer not agitating

Check out this you tube. Had the same problem today. Tipped washer on its side and replaced coupler between motor and gearbox. Parts are about $15
This is a good diagnosis video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYOP0_KCYT0

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2008

SOURCE: kenmore elite won't agitate properly

Does the bottom of your agitator work correctly? We had the same problem if you pop the cap off the top of your agitator there is a cam in there with 3 dogs that engage the agitator causing it to spin. If the bottom part is agitating correctly then chances are the dogs in the cam assembly are shot. If the bottom is agitating correctly then it is very possible you have something stuck under the bottom section of the agitator. If this is the case remove the top cover (same as before it's just a lid that pops off) inside you will see a 1/2" square use a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3" or 6" extension unscrew this piece remove the top section of the agitator then the bottom. Once the bottom is out check to make sure all is clear inside the washer. Reassemble in the reverse order making sure the lower section sits all the way down on the splines for the drive mechanism. If neither one of those solve the problem I would suspect you have an issue in the drive train of the washer.

Anonymous

  • 126 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 01, 2009

SOURCE: kemore elite top loader won't fully agitate

If you have a whirlpool built machine th problem is probably the agitator dogs. They are located inside the agitator. My guess since you say it doesn't fully agitate. If changing the dogs does bot fix the problem then the coupler is probably bad and that connects the motor to the agitator.

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I have a series 90 Kenmore top loading washer model number 110.26912691. At the end of the wash cyle it began to make a loud buzzing noise. I've tried to reset, the water will fill, but the washer...

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-11026912691/0582/0153200?pathTaken=

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Initial suggestion is a Lid Switch:

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
0helpful
1answer

Have a Kenmore series 90 washer. During spin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump

removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:


WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Basically whats happening is this.

When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. In actuality, the agitator will still spin somewhat due to the oil moving the shaft.

If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators (about 1/16"). We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom.

A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.

It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.

The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.

You don't have to remove the drum.

You can also see this site for removing the transmission.


ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)


Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.


The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

0helpful
1answer

Kenmore 90 heavy duty top load washer won't agitate

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

0helpful
1answer

Washer won't agitate. New transmission...new timer.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Top load, direct drive Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a reversing motor.

It turns one way for agitating and reverses for draining and spinning.

It sounds as if either the motor is shot or one of the connectors is bad.

As a place to start, see the Whirlpool Service manuasl (with wiring diagrams) for their top load, direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

1helpful
1answer

I have a Kenmore top loading washer model #110 and won't agitate

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.23912100

Also see the Whirlpool (Kenmore) Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


The first thing I'd try is using a different cycle. If the washer works as it should, the problem points to the timer.

I'd also check to make sure that when replacing the switch, the connections to the timer haven't come loose.

Since you've replaced the Lid Switch, the motor has power for the drain and spin cycles.

These washers use a reversing motor. The motor turns one way for agitating and reverses for the drain and spin.

Since you cannot hear anything when it is supposed to be agitating, the problem does point to the timer or motor.




0helpful
1answer

Kenmore washing machine Model 110.4767292, squeaky agitator

I can't seem to get the Sears Parts site for your washer model number.

Can you verify that it's correct?

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In the interim, here is the Whirlpool Service manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Following is a procedure for removing the agitator(s) on top load washers.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136

If you take the agitators out, I'd make sure that any "gunk" is cleaned off and check the splines inside the agitator and on the transmission agitator shaft.

It's probably not a serious problem.


0helpful
1answer

Washer is not rotating fully during wash cycle

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Some Kenmore washers have a two piece agitator. The lower section will rotate back and forth both ways.

The top section has "agitate Dogs" that allow it to rotate only one way (to keep the clothes moving downward.

If yours has a two piece agitator there shouldn't be a problem.


0helpful
1answer

My washing machine spins but does not aggitate what do i need to do?

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and operations manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Also look at the Whirlpool parts list for top load direct drive commercial washers (the consumer model is basically the same.)

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


The Whirlpool / Kenmore top load direct drive washer uses an agitate shaft from the transmission with splines on its' top that fit into slots in the agitator. If the slots in the agitator are damaged / worn, the washer may not agitate.

Remove the fabric softener dispenser, remove the top agitator cap (a short screwdriver works well), and you'll see a 1/2" square drive bolt. Use a 1/2" socket extension to remove the bolt, pull up on the top agitator and carefully turn it over. You should see four plastic "dogs" that allow the top agitator to turn one way only. If they are worn, they are easily replaced.

After removing the top agitator, you should see a bolt (I think it's 5/8").

Carefully remove the bolt and the rubber washer under it and the main agitator should come off. You'll see the top of the transmission agitator shaft with it's splines. Check them and the slots inside the main agitator.

If the splines on the transmission agitator and main agitator are OK, the washer spins and drains and the timer moves through its' cycle, the problem points to an agitate gear in the transmission itself.

See the parts PDF for the transmission.

Replacing the gear in the transmission is a bit complicated (and messy) but it's a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.

If you decide that you want to work on the transmission (it's not really that hard) post another question on Fixya and I or someone else should be able to walk you through it.

0helpful
1answer

Washing Machine does not agitate

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is the Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on how top load, direct drive washers work with a troubleshooting section.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for commercial top load, direct drive washers although the consumer washers are basically the same.

The problem seems to point to the Agitate Cams in the transmission that raise and lower the Agitate gear on the main transmission shaft. These are relatively inexpensive to replace.

I'd also check the splines on the main agitator shaft and the two pronged "washer" on top of it.


1helpful
1answer

WHAT IS THE LOAD CAPCITY SIZE OF WASHER MODEL 110.20702990

On newer, and sometimes a little newer, Whirlpool and Kenmore (Kenmore is made by Whirlpool) considers a few things in determing capacity. Most of the inner baskets are the same size, but they also add in agitator action into the mix. A Kenmore with an auger top agitator would have higher capacity than a Kenmore with just a normal agitator, even though it has the same sized drum. So a super capacity washer would have theoretically less CLEANING CAPACITY than a super capacity plus. The agitator action is actually what determines capacity on these models. So, with that in mind, cubic load should be about the same on both units. Sorry that I had to go into "Bill Nye The Washer Guy" mode, but thats about the only way to describe. Let me know if I can confuse you any more haha. Seriously though, if you need further help or info, write back, and will try to get you some other information. Remember, this theory only works on top load "normal people" washers, not the front loaders.
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