It seems the freezer section is not keeping cold. Doors are closed tight.
SOURCE: Beeping from refrigerator about once a minute.
If this is listed under the right model, then the only thing it could be is some models have a
door alarm,that will beep if the door is not closed. You could check and clean the gasket.
Or it the switch that tells the fridg that the door is closed. Check if there is a top door adjustment to bring the door closer to the fridge where the door hinge is. This might apply or push on the switch more.
SOURCE: Maytag freezer & refrigerator not coold enough
It's not cool
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. I feel heat/warmth on the front edge of my refrigerator....why?
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called ayoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
SOURCE: BEEPING NOISE
in the back of the fridge there is a panel. Remove the cover plate. Look for the buzzer and remove it. This will cancel the annoying beeping noise.
SOURCE: Freezer section is working but refridge not very cold.
check the vent that lets air from the freezer goes to the refrigerator. A control knob operates the amount of opening through the vent with a flap. makes the flap is not stuck, and responds to the knob, this is all mechanically link.
SOURCE: Westinghouse fridge freezer alarms keep going off
Try a different web site, where are the solutions on this one????? Great site..... not
The compressor just keeps on running.The problem is weak
compressor.The refrigerant in the compressor is got low.The compressor
is weak.The compressor needs to be replaced.-------------- The working procedure of
this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer
section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts
functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the
cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fridge
section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the
section, in that section the damper is located.------------ But as you mentioned
that freezer not cooling this indicates problem with compressor.When compressor
cools the freezer section then fridge section gets cold.If freezer section is
not getting properly cold then fridge section will not cool properly/.So the
problem relates to compressor.---------- In the compressor there is a
refrigerant called FREON.With the help of this Freon the compressor cools the
freezer section.Freon is a gaseous type cooling agent.The compressor will stop
cooling when coolant gets leaked from its chamber.--------- Again recharging the
Freon is possible, but the cost for that recharging is approx the cost of new
compressor.So its always advisable to get compressor replaced.Because new
compressor has warranty for few years.------------------ You can get required
parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from
searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.
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