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Swap internal washer on control assembly... Take it to box store to match a new one. (To remove, flick off cover with flathead screwdriver, unscrew screw, pull out assembly control...replace washer.
Posted on Jan 01, 2019
Or a stem leak depending upon the design of the fixture
Posted on Jan 01, 2019
SOURCE: Grohe shower assembly leaking
hiit sounds as though the diverter valve is sticking in the mid position although you have turned it to the floor spout as you call it!!
Also it sounds as though the seals are possibly leaking causing the plasterboard (drywall) to get we, or possibly a joint may be leaking. Advice access the pip-work valve etc run shower & check with torch (flashlight) to see where its coming from?
Rectification work replace seals/repair leak...replace diverter valve assembly.
Posted on Dec 20, 2008
SInce it is wet both under and behind the shower I would rule out the drain floor pan and drain system and think it most likely to be the pipe leaking from the mixing faucets to the shower head. Find studs directly behind shower faucet, n each side. Locate the center of the studs and put vertical lines up and down on the center line of the two studs closes to but outside the shower faucet on each side. Approximate 6 inches or so up and down for the height of the shower faucet (Valve, not head) Put Horizontal lines across between the two line at both the top and the bottom/ You now have a square.Using a Razor knife(Sometimes called a box knife, stanley 99a for example) cut into the lines of the square back and forth as deep as you can. Cut an x acrossthe square corner to corner again as deep as you can . Lightly hit the center of the x until the drywall caves in . Cut the remaining drywall out for the square. Now while the shower is running you will be able to see whee the leak is. Use pipe seal after disassembling the loose fiting or repair the leak iun what ever manner is necessary. Replace and repair the hole made in the drywall with another piece of drywall, tape and joint cement. .
Posted on Feb 27, 2009
if you have a closet behind the shower or a wall you may be able to get to the diverter without damage to the tile ,are you sure you can't just change the cartridge? most times this is all that is needed to fix a problem like yours.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
The most common reason for basement leakage is from the seal at the drain or the seal behind the overflow. With the overflow, the water trickles down after bouncing off your body and back onto the tub. This possibility MUST be eliminated first before determining the next step, Turn on the cold water and fill the tub and let the water go into the overflow for about 5 minutes. This will simulate someone in and using the shower. Check for leaks in the basement.
This test, as simple as it is, will also implicate bad plumbing connections at the valve itself behind the wall as well as eliminate backsplash from the showerer bouncing back onto your control valve(s).
If you have a leakage, wait a day and, with the drain open, turn on the hot/cold valve(s). and waste some water for another 5 minute test. This test eliminates the overflow as a suspect, and with the drain open almost always eliminates the drain as well. Hey..in plumbing there are no perfect answers.
If you still have leakage and no one is showering you have pretty well isolated the valve or connections to the valve. If you don't have leakage, it points to water bouncing off the body and onto the control valve(s) at which point resealing would be in order.
You can get leakage also if the caulking around the tub where the tub meets the wall has gone south. Stamped out steel tubs (common in rental apartments) have open corners so if the wall-to tub caulking is poor then the shower bounce off the body will easily trickle to the basement. This is not an issue with cast iron or fiberglass/plastic tubs.
If these tests truely point to the valve(s), repost your ? and refer to the drain tests completed, and supply as much information as you can about the brand and age of your valve(s)
Posted on Jun 02, 2010
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