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In have a Stihl weed eater and is hard to start have been told needs new carberator as stale fuel has been left in does this sound right ?

Posted by Ivan Peacock on


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shaun hancock

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The carbs nearly never stuff up, make sure the air cleaner filter is clean (rinse in petrol, allow to dry) remove the spark plug and check the "gap" is correct (nail file should slide snugly between it) and the plug itself is clean (wire brush any carbon deposits away).

Posted on Dec 21, 2018


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  • 87 Answers

SOURCE: fuel hoses routed wrong on weed eater fuel tank

Posted on Apr 10, 2009


Stephen McGuinness

  • 143 Answers

SOURCE: finding parts for a stihl fs66 weed eater

I dont think it would be wise to fit used parts to a
twostroke engine and parts of a bigger model
wouldnt fit.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009


  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: Can not start my stihl Fs66 weedeater

Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-3/4 turns each. This a basic setting and both will need to be set leaner (CW) after the engine warms up. Remove the spark plug and check for blue sparks when the engine is pulled through. If nothing, try a new spark plug. If still nothing, try removing the stop switch connection at the ignition module and retry for sparks. If nothing again, replace the ignition module. Use a thin business card to set the pole gap (the magnets should be under the poles of the ignition module) when installing the replacement. If you get sparks in the first test, try spraying some carburetor cleaner in the plug hole, replace the plug, and attempt to start. If you get a pop or two, then you have fuel problems. Check the fuel lines for condition, check the filter inside the fuel tank for plugging, and tightness of the carburetor screws and nuts. Remove the muffler and check for plugging. Check the air cleaner for plugging. If it still won't run, then the carburetor should be removed, disassembled, cleaned, and fresh gaskets and diaphragms installed. Keep track of what went where as you remove parts. If the machine appears to have good compression, it should start. When the engine is warmed up, adjust the H needle to 4-stroke at high speed, but smooth out when cutting. The L needle should be adjusted to allow the engine to run fairly smoothly, but allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Idle speed should be set so that the string head does not turn, but keeps the engine running. Hope some of this will get you trimming again!

Posted on Mar 26, 2010


  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: my stihl weed eater will start but not rev up

little cable with toggle on the end of it, this has come off the carb

Posted on May 10, 2010


Roy Cagle

  • 1545 Answers

SOURCE: replacing fuel lines on ryobi weed eater,need

This is an ongoing issue for users, and rightfully so. Small diameter line out of fuel tank (has filter in-tank on end) connects to the side of the carburetor that has the fuel pump....that is the cover without the hole in it. Other larger diameter fuel line out of tank connects to the longer nipple on the external purge/primer bulb. The bulb "pulls" fresh fuel from the fuel tank to the carb and then out of the carb to itself, where it then pushes any air/old fuel back into the fuel tank. The remaining larger diameter fuel line in this setup goes from the metering chamber (has cover with writing on it and a vent-hole) side of the carburetor to the smaller nipple on the purge/primer bulb. Years ago on 2-stroke trimmers, primers were not even used, choked the carb with a slide lever and gravity let fuel enter the carb from above...a few pulls, a "pop"...slide it off of choke and away you went.
If the purge/primer bulb is on top of the carb...small line from carb body to small hole in tank with filter. Larger diameter line goes from the bulb on the fuel pump side of the carb to the larger hole in the fuel tank where the line is held in place with a nylon nipple connector that keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.

Posted on Jul 10, 2010

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