Question about Dacor Ovens
SOURCE: Dacor Double Oven
HI - I just had the same problem - repairman came and reset the breaker in the oven which "tripped" (even tho I havent used the lower oven in months). Read posts here on other Dacor ovens which explain how to get to the reset switch to avoid having $150 in repair costs - I have not tried that myself tho but good luck!
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
SOURCE: Dacor error codes
HI. the F-1 code is a System Watchdog Circuit failure code.
Press "Cancel", if beeping continues after 30 seconds, replace the main control board (also called clock or ERC).
Concerning the F-5 code. This is an oven temp sensor failure code. have it replaced asap. ((Check the wiring leading to and from the control and sensor for cracks and fouled structure. if the wiring is bad, replace the harness as well)),
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
I had the same problem after auto-cleaning my oven just before Thanksgiving. The cause was overheating...and the tripping of a heat sensor switch.
The switch (reset button) is located about 3 inches behind the door locking mechanism.
Removing the front panel (4 screws) that the door lock sticks through exposes the switch. Just push the little red button & your are back in business!!
Posted on Nov 27, 2009
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