Question about Razor E100 Electric Scooter

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How to fix throttle for an electric razor scooter

The wires for the throttle were pulled out at the thumb throttle on handle bar

Posted by lisa davis on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: electric scooter Troubleshooting

A small tip here - bigger is better. The large diameter wheels clear gaps in concrete or pavement that would hang up a skate wheel or a scooter with smaller wheels. Most electric scooters also handle well in gravel and small terrain features. We don't recommend slamming electric scooters into a curb to get over it like some people do with their bike. This could result in damage to the electric scooter. Simply Ollie up a curb and keep going.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Why is my razor e100 red electric scooter going so slow?

Your scooter is dying the slow death that all Razor scooter owners are suffering. See my related post on this. Anyway, here's the deal..

I HAVE THE SOLUTION!! No, it's not what you're going to want to hear, but I have it nonetheless. The cheapest and easiest way you're going to fix this issue is by firmly grabbing the scooter, hoisting it directly upwards, clearing the rim and depositing it into your nearest refuse container. This is junk at its finest, brought to you from the worst in value and service, the Razor Company.

I did a little investigation into this problem as I too experienced what everyone that owns a Razor scooter does; it works for about two months, then suddenly the "battery stops holding a charge". You can Google Razor scooter issues and get page after page of this happening, along with more pages of frustrated people learning Razor won't do anything about it. But I digress.. back to the facts..

I need not repeat what I've already posted with regard to the issues surrounding my scooter, purchased Dec. '08 as a Christmas gift and not ridden (midwest snow) until the last month or two tops. So as I posted previously, it stops working and I'm assuming it's the batteries. I call my local Batteries Plus store and they say they can help. Here's where it gets interesting.

I bring in the entire scooter and charger. Let me say that I found the charger included in with my scooter.. "interesting?".. as directly underneath the red/green lights there are Chinese characters instead of English words, thus I never had any idea what these lights indicated. That notwithstanding, the test the charger on the spot and tell me it's working and is (pay attention here) 41 volts of charge. This means nothing to me at the time. I learn that testing the batteries in the scooter will take a couple days and they say they'll call with the results.

Before leaving, one of the CSR's engages me in a conversation about his identical experience with the Razor scooter he got for his kids one year prior. The circumstances mirrored everyone elses: it worked for 2 months, stopped working, he checks the batteries, replaces them, still doesn't work, he pitches it. Hearing this isn't making me feel any better.

So the weekend passes and here on Monday I get the call from Steve at Batteries Plus. Here's what he finds: There are 2 batteries in the scooter; one is at 60% of its life (this after a mere month of use) and the other is overcharged and 'swollen'. How can this be I wonder? I followed the charging instructions provided with my scooter TO THE LETTER, never leaving it charged for an extended period, etc. Well the answer is simple- the batteries for this scooter are 24 VOLT BATTERIES being charged by a charger that is outputting 41 VOLTS!! ALMOST DOUBLE THE VOLTAGE! It's overcharging the batteries and frying them out.

Steve said he removed and replaced the batteries with 2 brand new fully charged 24 volt batteries and it still didn't work. He surmised the switch that activates the motor, which is run through the charging system, was fried during its last overcharging.

Ergo, the charger included with these scooters is frying the scooters out in a very short period of time. To replace the charger, both batteries, and the switch would be more expensive than just pitching it and buying another brand new one.

This issie is Razor's fault and they should be willing to fix the issues (cue laugh track here). Go to their site and be ready to laugh at yourself for even bothering. Here's what I found. First I click the 'service/repair' tab, then am directed to the 'Razor Service Center Locater' to find the nearest service center to me to have it repaired. I entered my zip code and it said 'Sorry, no results found'. I then try my city/state, and again get 'Sorry, no results found'. Not looking good.

I then begin reading their return policy. It has a warranty that's good for 90 days from the DATE OF PURCHASE. Naturally, in my case I bought it in Dec. but since there was snow on the ground it was useless until spring; I was screwed before it even was given it's first charge. However, for the regular customer they'll find that even so, it's right at about the 2nd/3rd month when this thing takes it's final ride and as such, and through no fault of your own, your're totally screwed.

There are enough complaints on this scooter on the web that at minimum contacting the BBB is in order, and might I suggest a potential class-action lawsuit? This scooter retails still at $149, and like most of you I don't have $149 to throw in the trash every couple of months only to go and repurchase another "disposable" scooter.

So there it is. Not only are the batteries being overcharged and shot, but collateral damage to the electrical system is being done which is frying the switch that engages the motor and other things. Have your charger checked at your local Battery Plus (no charge) and you'll see they are putting out a defective product, and based on several hits on the internet they are clearly aware of it and do not care.

Posted on May 11, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need a wiring diagram for Pride Rally Electric Scooter

I can tell you how i fixed it for $19.95

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

Martin Dixon

  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: How can I put chain back on my E200 razor electric

First your going to remove the deck.
Take off the chain tensioner
Next remove the motor and put the chain around the gear
Put the motor back on the scooter with the chain on
Then take the rear wheel off and put the chain into the gear.
Put the rear wheel back on along with the chain tensioner and deck
Your done!

Note: the reason why I say you have the remove the motor and wheel is the get the chain on. So you may only have to partial remove the motor or tires to get the chain on.

Posted on Aug 18, 2010

Ironfist109

Iron

  • 3018 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove rear tyre from e300 electric razor

  1. With a Phillips screwdriver loosen the two screws and remove the chain guard.
  2. With a 10mm wrench loosen the brake cable anchor and disconnect the cable.
  3. With two 8mm wrenches loosen the brake housing anchor and disconnect. (Keep the spacer and washers together.)
  4. With a 10mm wrench loosen both axle adjusters an equal amount. (roughly five turns)
  5. With two 17mm wrenches loosen the axle.
  6. Push the wheel forward in the slots to loosen the chain.
  7. Pull the wheel out. (Pay careful attention to the order the hardware is in there.)
Regards, Tomy

Posted on May 01, 2011

Testimonial: " that tells me how to remove the weel but not the tyre but thank you anyhow "

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1 Answer

How to replace throttle cable on the handle bar end


from my old motorcycling days. Unscrew the two screws that hold the fat end of the throttle, and when they split you will see a ball or small cylinder attached to the wire. Slip this out and either rethread a new and lubricated inner cable or pull the cable outer from the socket under the throttle and replace both. I would advise against using the screw down nipple connector as shown in the thumbnail image as they always pull out in time. Good to keep one in your riding jacket though for a quick roadside fix..

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-replace-the-throttle-cable-on-a-motorcycle


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I broke the throttle trigger on a 445 Husqvarna chainsaw. I removed all of the screws etc from the orange handle bar. I am still unable to separate the two orange pieces. I do not want to force and...


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Can the throttle be switched to left thumb for forward


No Well maybe If you remove the console cover and see how the throttle is mounted to the tiller. If the throttle pot and handle are screwed to the tiller with two screws you might be able to unscrew the throttle assembly and flip it upside down letting you use your left thumb to push on the throttle. Unique problem because if you can't flip it then you are stuck pulling the throttle reverse side outward to make it go forward. Hope this helps you might even have to flip the throttle lever ( take it off the throttle pot and flip it and reattach to the pot stem) so it will fit back under the console cover. I dunno for certain but you can try

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1 Answer

Replace handle bars


Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

Nov 20, 2008 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide

1 Answer

Replace handle bars


Mine had wiring inside the bars as well. Basically I removed the controls from the bars, and removed the 2 bolts holding the handle bars on. I removed the RIGHT side gas tank after draining it. I intended on cutting the wires to the connectors, pulling the wires out of the old handle bars, and pulling them back through the new bars. Note: Mark the black wires very carefully, since there were 5 black wires in the two connectors and they are all unique wires. The colored wires were easy, just match them back up. Several tricks I found on line. Use a string and a bolt to fish a pull line down through the new bars then pull the wire bundle through. This worked great on both left and right wire bundles. I then bolted the new handle bars in place and remounted the controls. I then replaced the shrink tubing up the bundles that hid the actual wires as they came out of the handle bars down to where I cut the connector wires, behind the right side tank. Next I stripped and tinned all the wires I cut (twist and get a little solder to stick on the wires) and stuck little pieces of shrink tubing up or down the wire so after I resoldered the wire I could shrink the insulation back over the splice. I picked up the shrink tubing and some extra wire a home depot. I had a soldering iron, and heat gun so away I went connecting the dots again. Litte tedious but hey. It saved me somewhere between $500 -$700 bucks which is what the harley shop quoted before I started. I tested each function, then reinstalled the gas tank and tightened up all the stuff. Below is the pin out in case you do loose a wire marker, like I did. Good Luck.

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