well this is how it goes.. the transmission is from a salvage yard.. fixing the car for a friend of mine. well here it goes. i pulled the 1 from the car replaced it with the used 1. i noticed when i was gonna insert the cv shaft the splined area was a lil off.. so i stick my finger in there to align it to center so the shaft will go in.. and u know how spider gears are.. as i was moving it .. it juss spun pass the opening where it normally sits and fell to the bottom.. the otherside was gone.. so i turned the 2 existing gear that are sitting on the pin and the gear from the passenger side rolled over to the driverside.. i tried working it back into synch with the 3 existing gears almost get it to but dosent happen..well this is how it goes.. the transmission is from a salvage yard.. fixing the car for a friend of mine. well here it goes. i pulled the 1 from the car replaced it with the used 1. i noticed when i was gonna insert the cv shaft the splined area was a lil off.. so i stick my finger in there to align it to center so the shaft will go in.. and u know how spider gears are.. as i was moving it .. it juss spun pass the opening where it normally sits and fell to the bottom.. the otherside was gone.. so i turned the 2 existing gear that are sitting on the pin and the gear from the passenger side rolled over to the driverside.. i tried working it back into synch with the 3 existing gears almost get it to but dosent happen..
yea.. i thought so.. man.. even the old tranny did the same.. they were perfectly aligned and i pushed it with my finger.. and 1 fell from the assembly.. i know that when u get a tranny new or used it usually has the plastic pegs holding the spiders.. but this place didnt do so... although it only has 22,000 miles i say it was the salvage mistake for not properly geting the tranny ready for transport.. i just didnt want to waste my time tryna move the spider back into place.. well i guess i'll pull it back out and have it replaced since its under warranty.. another question since u sound like u know manual transmissons pretty well.. for my personal car.. its a 91 acura integra, stock tranny with a stage 3 clutch (springless clutch).. raced it a few time and 1 time i happen to shift from 2nd to 5th thinkin it was 3rd.. and dropped the hammer.. and corrected gear and got going.. slowed down.. and started normal driving 1st , 2nd , 3rd, 4th, then 5th.. no action in 5th.. it was like i was neutral.. buuuuut.. when i put it in reverse.. i have to shift it into a foward gear in order to get it out of reverse and back into neutral.. 1st - 4th work fine.. no 5th and reverse has to be disengaged by shifted into a foward gear then back into neutral ..kinda sounds stupid but.. dats what happen..yea.. i thought so.. man.. even the old tranny did the same.. they were perfectly aligned and i pushed it with my finger.. and 1 fell from the assembly.. i know that when u get a tranny new or used it usually has the plastic pegs holding the spiders.. but this place didnt do so... although it only has 22,000 miles i say it was the salvage mistake for not properly geting the tranny ready for transport.. i just didnt want to waste my time tryna move the spider back into place.. well i guess i'll pull it back out and have it replaced since its under warranty.. another question since u sound like u know manual transmissons pretty well.. for my personal car.. its a 91 acura integra, stock tranny with a stage 3 clutch (springless clutch).. raced it a few time and 1 time i happen to shift from 2nd to 5th thinkin it was 3rd.. and dropped the hammer.. and corrected gear and got going.. slowed down.. and started normal driving 1st , 2nd , 3rd, 4th, then 5th.. no action in 5th.. it was like i was neutral.. buuuuut.. when i put it in reverse.. i have to shift it into a foward gear in order to get it out of reverse and back into neutral.. 1st - 4th work fine.. no 5th and reverse has to be disengaged by shifted into a foward gear then back into neutral ..kinda sounds stupid but.. dats what happen..
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only a few times have i been able to realine usually tear apart rebuild keep shafts in for sure when you move it aroundonly a few times have i been able to realine usually tear apart rebuild keep shafts in for sure when you move it around
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cv shafts come in different lengths , left to right vehicle to vehicle
indicate a shaft too short to properly fit in the splines in the side gears of the differential
Check the inner CV make sure that it's inserted into the transaxle and locked in. (you might want to pull it out and inspect the end of the spline first)
Lift and support front end on suitable jack stands preferably on frame. Remove right front cv axle, stub shaft, and seal. You will need to pull the right front brake caliper assembly loose and place to the side. Then remove bolts from shock and upper control arm and hub nut to do this. Next, remove axle lock actuator on passenger side of front axle. Place a drain pan underneath front diff cover and remove cover and drain axle. In the center of differential there will be an 8 mm head bolt holding spider gear cross-shaft. Remove bolt and cross-shaft only! Push inner axle in until clip clears inside of passenger spider gear. Set clip aside and push/pull axle shaft straight out to passenger side.
The shaft end inside the transmission should only be held in place by a circular spring clip in a recess at the end of the spline shaft. Even prying pressure on BOTH sides of the housing against transmission should release it.
Try to get a pry bar or large screwdriver between the CV housing and the transmission case. A little force may be required, but you have to pop the housing out of the transmission. A c-clip in a groove on the splined shaft is holding the shaft in, and must be popped outward, for the housing and shaft to be removed.
if you are trying to reassemble the cv joint ( why ever you would need to pull it apart in the first place as the new boot slips over the assembly)
do it outside of the transmission or you will damage the transmission internals
place the transmission end on a block of wood
line up the shaft and hit the top end with a heavy mallet
( sledge hammer will burr the ends )
of you are just putting the shaft back in the transmission to reassemble the front end , line up the splines and use the mallet to start the splines into place by compressing the circlip
Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger
tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a
CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30
and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the
center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety
tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe
placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break
the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.
2
Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car
and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point
must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two
jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack
stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out
the jack and move it out of the way.
3
Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the
hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with
the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew
the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV
joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub,
take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it
with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.
4
Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel
hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that
holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm.
Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and
sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a
length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud
from the spindle.
5
Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint
disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side
just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the
back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to
the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard
end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the
transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or
replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the
entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.
6
Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the
transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and
place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new
shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping
the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket.
Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and
loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.
7
Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by
re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and
leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud
positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry
bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel
hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut
tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into
the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking
bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car
from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.
The cross-shaft goes in so that the hole in it lines up with the bolt hole in the carrier. Place one spider gear in contact with the side gears on one side and the other on the opposite side, one at the top, one at the bottom. Rotate the gears into place. before pushing the pin through, put your finger inside each bore and make sure that the spider gear shims are also aligned so the shaft can pass through without interference. then after it's in, align the bolt hole and replace it. Don't forget to put the axle clip back before putting the pin in.
It's easier to put in a rebuilt axle. The steps are as follows
Remove the brake caliper, pads, and rotor.
Remove the axle nut.
Remove the lower ball joint retaining bolt and separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Push the splined axle out of the knuckle.
Then, use a pry bar to pop the axle shaft out of the transmission. Insert the new axle shaft and give it a tap with a hammer to pop the "C" clip into position.
Then reverse the procedure.
Make sure you only do one side at a time. If you pull both axles, the side gears in the transmission can slip out of place, causing a real headache.
The axle isn't seated all the way into the transmission.Inside the transmission is the differential,the axle goes into a side gear,called a spider gear,and slips into splines inside the spider gear.Once in to a certain point,there is a retainer clip on the end of the axle that pops out when seated all the way into the spider gear in the trans,and this holds,or retains the axle in the trans.If whoever worked on the car didn't have the axle fully seated to where the clip popped out,then the axle will eventually slide back out of the trans,disengaging the splines,and causing the vehicle to not move.Good luck.
well this is how it goes.. the transmission is from a salvage yard.. fixing the car for a friend of mine. well here it goes. i pulled the 1 from the car replaced it with the used 1. i noticed when i was gonna insert the cv shaft the splined area was a lil off.. so i stick my finger in there to align it to center so the shaft will go in.. and u know how spider gears are.. as i was moving it .. it juss spun pass the opening where it normally sits and fell to the bottom.. the otherside was gone.. so i turned the 2 existing gear that are sitting on the pin and the gear from the passenger side rolled over to the driverside.. i tried working it back into synch with the 3 existing gears almost get it to but dosent happen..
yea.. i thought so.. man.. even the old tranny did the same.. they were perfectly aligned and i pushed it with my finger.. and 1 fell from the assembly.. i know that when u get a tranny new or used it usually has the plastic pegs holding the spiders.. but this place didnt do so... although it only has 22,000 miles i say it was the salvage mistake for not properly geting the tranny ready for transport.. i just didnt want to waste my time tryna move the spider back into place.. well i guess i'll pull it back out and have it replaced since its under warranty.. another question since u sound like u know manual transmissons pretty well.. for my personal car.. its a 91 acura integra, stock tranny with a stage 3 clutch (springless clutch).. raced it a few time and 1 time i happen to shift from 2nd to 5th thinkin it was 3rd.. and dropped the hammer.. and corrected gear and got going.. slowed down.. and started normal driving 1st , 2nd , 3rd, 4th, then 5th.. no action in 5th.. it was like i was neutral.. buuuuut.. when i put it in reverse.. i have to shift it into a foward gear in order to get it out of reverse and back into neutral.. 1st - 4th work fine.. no 5th and reverse has to be disengaged by shifted into a foward gear then back into neutral ..kinda sounds stupid but.. dats what happen..
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