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My chain is jumping and preventing me from free back spinning my pedaling.I was also told that my chain isn't catching properly when gears are changing..I don't know why..

Posted by Troy Mathis on

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5 Related Answers

TireSideDown

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: The chain wants to jump off while trying to change gears

There are several things that could be wrong:

Shifter out of adjustment

Chain worn

Chain and gear(s) worn

Shifter out of adjustment:
Try adjusting the cable tension by turning the barrel (the part between the cable and the shifter). Count the number of turns and reset it to its original position if this doesn't solve it.

Chain worn:
Chains wear out. hold a ruler up to it, with one end centered on a pin. 12" away, another pin should like up very very very close to the 12" mark. If not, it's probably worn out and needs to be replaced. No way around it. Some say chains are good for 500 miles only. Your mileage may vary. (keep reading...)

Chain worn and gear(s) worn:
If the bike has been ridden witha worn chain for a while, it will make the gears in the back wear faster too, and a new chain alone will not work. If this is the case, you need a new chain and new gears in the back. Often, gears in the back are replaced all at once in a 'cassette'. You'll have to make sure your front gears aren't worn out too!


Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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dunnbiker

David Dunn

  • 8546 Answers

SOURCE: Slipping gears on bicycle

Make sure the rear wheel axle is snugged up against he dropouts in the frame and that the wheel is centered in the brakes. Also, check the seating of the shifter cable at each end, but most likely at the rear shifter, to make sure the jacket is inside the ferrule.

Of course, it is impossible to get a sense for how well maintained the bike is. Perhaps the shifting problem's appearance is not related to the wheel removal and may be something else like bad cables or cable housing. The cable should slide easily in the housing. Shift the bike to its lowest (easiest) gears in front and in back. Then, without moving the crank, manually tug on the rear shifter cable from the rear and push it in. Resistance is bad. Sometimes a bit of lube inside the housing will buy you some time. Use something thin and squirt a little into the end then cycle the cable in and out to distribute it.

If you don't have a bike repair stand, find a small tree with a stout, narrow, low horizontal branch about shoulder height and hook the front of your seat on it so you can spin the cranks and test the shifting. If it's hard to downshift the rear (pulling cable into the housing) it will likely not freely shift upward because the only froce pulling the cable out is the little spring in the derailleur.

Shift to the highest (smallest) cog and sight along the axis of the it and the two rear derailleur pullies. They should all be in the same exact vertical alignment. If they're parallel but not aligned you can adjust the barrel on the cable at the derailleur. Try a small turn then shift up and down while turning the crank to get the cable and shifter to settle where the new adjustment wants to be.

If you ride regualrly it would be worthwhile to find a local bike shop (LBS) and get to know them. They can teach you some self sufficiency in exchange for a little business from you.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

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Philip Long

  • 1486 Answers

SOURCE: my audi tt quattro 2004 model yesterday stopped changing gears

Release bearing problem.Change the clutch Assembly

Posted on Jun 13, 2009

Anonymous

  • 484 Answers

SOURCE: problem with chain and gears

Wash, degrease and scrub the chain and derailleurs with a good degreaser (like Simple Green). Dry the chain and relubricate it with an appropriate bike chain lubricant (not oil or WD-40). Shift the derailleurs to the smallest chain ring and cog on the cassette (low front gear, high rear gear) and then loosen the cable at the derailleurs, pull the cables taut and reattach them. If the derailleurs still need adjustment, here is a procedure for it:
Flip the bike over (so you can pedal the bike manually while you shift) and shift the front to the middle chain ring. Shift the rear to the highest gear (small cog). Release the cable from the pinch bolt on the derailleur. Adjust the screw marked "H" on the derailleur until the jockey wheel on the derailleur is aligned perfectly over the small cassette cog. Set the cable adjuster on the derailleur to the middle of its range (find this by screwing it all the way in and then count how many revolutions it makes until it screws out completely. Screw it back in one half of the total revolutions). Reattach the cable and shift to the lowest gear (the biggest cog). Over-shift and hold on the shifter, then adjust the "L" screw on the derailleur until the jockey wheel sits just past the last cog. You have to hold the shifter to do this. Now shift into the middle gear (or one of the two middle gears if the bike has an even number of gears) and adjust the derailleur using the barrel adjuster you previously set to the middle of its range. Adjust it so that the derailleur is sitting perfectly over the appropriate gear. Shift up and down the cassette while pedaling and in every gear, reverse pedal (freewheel) to make sure the chain does not hop. Adjust as necessary until all gears are smooth.
Now the front:
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
That should be it, unless there is another mechanical problem causing the missed shifts, like a bent derailleur hanger or damaged teeth on the cassette cogs or a bad derailleur. If it is still problematic, come back for further information.

i hope this helps
-matthew

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

sisadsl

gavin jones

  • 1508 Answers

SOURCE: my 2005 r6 had all

It sounds a lot like 3rd gear and shift fork need replacing, it seems a very common problem on the r6, jumping to a higher rpm would mean it is jumping out of 3rd and back to 2nd.
There is a slight possibility the spring and ball, that locate the shift drum,isnt holding it in gear.

Posted on Apr 18, 2011

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