My RTH6360 cycles more frequently than any other thermostat I've owned. Is there a setting I can change so that it doesn't turn on and off quite so often?

Question edited for clarity.

Installation manual, but it has some very specific requirements. You may not have the correct one.

The RTH6360 thermostat does not support L/A, S, or U terminals. If there are wires in terminals that are not listed, you will need additional wiring support. Visit yourhome.honeywell.com/support to find out if the thermostat will work for you.

I don't understand that, and if you don't, you need a heating or electrical engineer.

RTH6360 Series - Quick Installation Guide

Honeywell Store https://www.honeywellstore.com > images > pdf PDF The RTH6360 thermostat does not support L/A, S, or U terminals. If there are wires in terminals that are not listed, you will need additional wiring support.
40 pages

People trying the same changeover

https://www.google.com/search?q=Trane+Weathertron+Baystat+239+Thermostat

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Short cycling refers to a condition where a heater turns on and off frequently, rather than staying on for an extended period of time. There are a few possible reasons why a Marley wall heater might be short cycling. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the air filters: If the air filters are dirty, they can restrict air flow to the heater, causing it to shut down. Clean or replace the air filters if necessary.
2. Check the thermostat: Make sure the thermostat is properly calibrated and that the temperature setting is not set too high. If the thermostat is damaged, it may need to be replaced.
3. Check the heating element: The heating element can fail, causing the heater to turn off. You may need to replace the heating element if this is the case.
4. Check the limit switch: If the limit switch is defective, it can cause the heater to turn off. Replace the limit switch if necessary.
5. Check the wiring: Make sure the wiring to the heater is securely connected and that there are no loose or frayed wires. If there are any issues with the wiring, you may need to have it repaired.

If none of these steps resolve the issue, it may be necessary to have the heater serviced by a professional.

You may need to set the thermostat to energize or de-energize the reversing valve. Essentially you possibly have it in heat mode. Or you wired it to energize emergency heat strips.

installed wrong or defective

Some thermostats allow you to change the differential value - that is how far below the heating (or above the cooling) set point before calling for heat (or cooling in the case of air conditioning). The built in 1 degree differential setting provides the most even temperature in the space at the expense of more frequent furnace firing and stopping. Many people prefer this mode as opposed to allowing wider swings in temperature for less frequent furnace firing and stopping. If you wish to change this setting, you'll need to replace the thermostat as it is not user adjustable in this model.

THERMOSTAT CONTROL OPERATION
FOR IR20LPT / IR30LPT: The thermostatic control used
simply turns on and off the burner.
FOR BF20LPT / BF30LPT: The thermostatic control
used modulates the flame size as the temperature gets
closer to set point, then it turns off the burner upon
reaching temperature.
The burner will cycle back on when room temperature
drops below the set temperature. The control knob can
be set to any heat level between 1 and 5. Selecting the
HI setting will cause the burner to remain on.
Note: The thermostat sensing bulb measures the
temperature of air near the heater cabinet. This
may not always agree with room temperature
(depending on housing construction, insulation
location, room size, open air temperature, etc.).
Frequent use of your heater will let you determine
your own comfort levels.
The LED temperature indicator measures approximate
room temperature around the heater.
Note: The LED temperature indicator DOES NOToperate with or control the thermostat setting of the
heater.
IF YOUR UNIT IS NOT TURNING OFF IN POSITION 1 BUT THE TEMPERATURE AROUND IT IS HIGH THAN THERMOSTAT IS STUCK AND YOU HAVE TO CHANGE IT OR VISIT SERVICE.
1-5 knob has no info what is the parameters of temperature sorry!

Changing the setting won't affect the way the unit works, only how long it runs for. Rapid switching off and on will kill your compressor in time - check the refrigerant level. Usually short cycling on lp switch.

Does the timer advance to the end or does it stop advancing in the middle of the cycle?
If the unit does advance to the end on timed but it won't advance on auto, that means your cycling thermostat isn't triggering. First, make sure your vent is cleaned and the best way to do that is just run a cycle without the vent hose connected to the back of the dryer to see if things change. If your dryer still won't dry properly, then the cycling thermostat will need to be replaced because it's not cycling properly.

Try it on the timed cycle. If it doesn't advance, then you have a bad timer and the timer will need to be replaced.

The cycling thermostat is mounted to the front of the blower wheel housing.

Here is the timer if it is found bad.
Here is the cycling thermostat if it is bad.
Keep me posted!

try changing the fan sensor switch on the cylinder head ,also the thermostat ,but again without my head under the bonnet its difficult to diagnose as it coulod be the rad blocked ,quick measure is to turn heater on full on screen and this should cool the engine if its a blocked rad or a jammed thermostat .

Hi,
Yes you can change that by change the number of cycles per hour that your t-stat looks from for youe furnace. Lower the cycles per hour number and it will increase the range.

You can see how to do it here

http://dl.owneriq.net/3/39359643-dfda-451d-bb81-828eecddd9fc.pdf

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101