Question about Mitsubishi WS-55807 TV
I have a WS-55807 that will not power up. When the power button is pressed I hear a click from the back of the set, the timer light comes on and 3 seconds later I hear a click from the back of the set, and the timer light goes off. I started checking power to the unit with a voltmeter. For those intersted I have attached scematics: I verified that the PCB main fuse is good and there is 120V at point PT.
From what I can tell is happening, the power button is pressed and the P-ON transistor is given a signal to conduct which causes K9A50 to close. K9A50 opens after about 3 seconds.
I am looking for other troubleshootinng steps. I have checked fuses F9A01 and F9A06, both are good. What are some other things to check for? Where does the P-ON signal come from?
In the switched supplies regulator circuitry I found fuses F9A04 and F9A05 blown (denoted by red lines thru components). I jumpered around F9A04 and F9A05 with good 5A fuses and the TV powered on. However when the set was plugged into an outlet there was a huge power draw (sparks from the outlet).
After jumpering around the blown fuses, the TV stayed powered on for about 30 sec and then powered down. I pressed the power button a few more times and the same result. The TV stayed on for only 30 sec.
I pulled the middle PCB whichs holds these circuits and I found the
D9A60 diode open and IC8C02, one of the convergence IC's fried. I don't know if these were like this before or after jumpering.
I replaced all bad components and I am back to square one. The K9A50 relay stays closed for 3 sec and the set does not power on any further.
Comment by TV_ITGuy, posted on Dec 19, 2007 Thanks for the advice ctf1800. I have read several posts that speak of the DM unit. I have looked in the back of my set and the DM unit is not in the location shown in the pictures.
As I hope you can see in this picture, there is no DM unit to the far left, just open space. Also the service manual for the V17 chasiss does not speak of a DM module.
I checked the reisitors on the output of IC8C02 which are a couple of 3.9 ohm resistors in parallel. When I test them I get approximately 1.9 ohms, which is what it should be with them being in parallel.
Please let me know if I am off base on any of this. Thanks Comment by TV_ITGuy, posted on Dec 19, 2007 Also, I have replaced both of the Convergence IC's when I replaced the fuses and diode. Post Solution Work Queue --> Have the same problem? --> Have the same problem? Click Here
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first off you should replace both convergance IC and check the resisters coming off the output if any of the resisters are bad it will trash the ic on trying to power up.
i would also replace the caps in the DM section
Comment by ctf1800, posted on Dec 20, 2007 there are six fusible return resistors ranging from 1.5, 1.8, 2.2, 2.7, 3.3, 3.9 Ohms. I would lift one side of the resister out.
check for any caps that look puffy and check the horz. out put transistor.
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Posted on May 29, 2008
I have the same problam,I got this tv for free and i am trying to find out what is wrong with is so i can fix it.has any of yall got yalls fix if so what did you do to get it to work.
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
You con't need to buy anything other than a HD satellite or cable box. A television can either handle HD or not. The high definition sets are monitors that are capable of handing an input of up to 1080i.
Quick and dirty. Look in the back for blue, green, red cable input sockets. There should be matching cable outs. from your cable or satellite box. get a set of component video cables, plug them in. Determine the audio type, where RCA jacks, Toslink fiberoptic or a component cable sock. In the latter you use a cable much like a yellow video. You can get away with using a yellow video cable if need be. Now, below more specifics if needed.
No, you don't want to by the add-on from Mitsubishi. I am assuming you have a 16-9 wide format box
If you have a squarish box, i.e. 4:3 ratio. forget it. I don't know if any wree made for HD, but unlikely. If you'd given me the model number could be a little more definitive. If you have a manual, it will tell you whether you can go HDTV.
Take a look in the rear of the set and look at the connection holes. You should have at least one set of inputs, marked in some way with the Red, Green and Blue just on the inside of the cable hole. Those are tomponent cables pops that allow you to do high definition television. These cables are video only.; Sound is a second separate question.
There are usually some other assorted things back there, including off air tele.and maybe another kind of connecter.. Some of these might be useful if you have games etc. that attach directly to the set. In any event, those component cables say that you can do HDTV. (NB:
The Direct TV HD box should have component cable outputs. You can do this directly from the DiTV box to the set. You would also need a separate Audio Cable(s). Your set should have either a toslink fiberoptic hookup and/or a component audio cable. There's no inherent advantage between those two. If you have an old video cable (yellow) than you can substitute that.
You should now have HDTV and high quality sound through the set. You will probably have to set up the inputs and other stuff with the.remote. It's pretty logical. If you have used input x for bringing in the video, just match it up.and your on your way.
If you are going to confuse things by trying to connect another piece of gear, e.g. dvd box, you would go to inputs two. If you have the second set of component input, then hook an HD player to it. In this setup, you adjust the sound on the set according to how it works. I assume the DTV audiio can be controlled directly just as a cable box. -- Here's what's going on. For several years Mitsubishi built higher end televisions without tuners or slots for cable (or satellite). But they were HD capable (as I said, not all). At the time, there was no HD that mattered and not even much of a standard for it. Some wanted 729p, others wanted 1080i The advantage for 720p over 1080i was supposedly the improved movement capture. 720p isn't dead, but it's not a problem.
You will need to set the menu on the television (using the remote) so that it says 1080i. It does not do 1080p, the newer high standard. It only has two other settings of consequence, 480i and 480p. Put it on 1080i and leave it alone. The 480i and the 480P will be on auto pilot if you have an older DVD players. If there is a high definition signal at fewer than 1080, it will be upconverted to 1080i..
The set will handle any signal you send it like that. You probably have an HDMI out from your dtv or cable box. The set does not have HDMI (unless on a later model). The DTV box should have both of them. That's a simpler wiring setup that allows 1080P. On the offchance you have a box HDMI only, you'll need a converter cable.
The setup gets a little more complicated if you're using a receiver as a switcher, i.e. all inputs go there with only one output to the set. when ou do that you're in an area outside this question.
is this all there is to it. But It goes only slightly more difficult if you're hooking up the .
You don't need the box for the television set.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
try holding in the menu and input/device buttons on the front of the set both together and see if it blinks a series of blinks, pause briefly then blinks a second series of blinks, let me know what the blinks were sush as 22 or 24
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
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