Question about Harley Davidson Lands Phones
harley recomends that you use their oil but i would be carefull because it is a cynthetic now if you were using regular oil what that will do is clean all the old build up out of the motor this can be bad because after time there are pin hole leaks that occure but the build up stops it from leaking but if you use cynthetic you cant go back to regular oil it will gum up on you and ruen your motor so you got to find out what has been put in it. but use a 10-30
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.
Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.
On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
To change the clutch cable on you '79 Sporty, you'll have to take the outer primary cover off. To do this, you'll have to drain the oil from the primary, take the left side foot peg off, and loosen the primary chain adjuster on the bottom side of the primary. Loosen the locknut and use an allen wrench or hex key to screw the adjuster bolt downward.
If you need to know anything else, drop me a line at [email protected]
Then, remove the large "plug" towards the rear of the cover. Inside, you'll see something that looks like a nut but with no threads in it held in by a small spring. This the the lock nut, remove it. Below it is what looks like another nut with a slotted adjuster bolt sticking out. Remover the bolts from around the primary cover and break it loose from the engine. While turning the adjuster screw at the rear of the cover inward, remove the cover.
The cable connects to the cluch release mechanism. By turning the "link" downwards, you can disconnect it from the mechanism. Notice which way the "link" in attached to the release mechanism. Take the "link" off the end of the clutch cable.
Break the lock nut loose at the threaded cable adjuster on the outside of the case and screw the adjuster all the way out of the primary cover. Disconnect the cable at the handlebar lever and your cable is out.
Reinstall the new cable in the reverse order. When replacing the outer primary cover, make sure you use a new gasket on the cover as well as on the foot peg boss. The "foot peg boss gasket" is very important. You'll see an aluminum boss with a threaded rod sticking out of it that holds your left foot peg on. There is a round gasket that goes over this threaded rod and seals against the boss. If you leave this off, your bike will leak oil around this threaded rod when your foot peg goes on. Make sure you specifically ask for the "foot peg boss gasket" when you buy the new primary gasket. It's just a round gasket a bit larger than a quarter.
As you put the primary cover back on, there is a spring on the primary chain adjuster. Part of the spring is in the primary cover and the other part is in the engine. You'll see how it goes in. There is a large stud in that area that the outer primary cover slides up on. Adjust the tension on the primary chain by removing the "plug" at the top of the primary cover. You want 3/4" to 7/8" up and down play in the chain with the engine cold.
On the adjuster, as you're installing the outer cover, turn the ajuster screw back into the clutch release mechanism by turning the screw backwards. Once you have the outer primary cover completely installed, you must adjust the release mechanism. Adjust the screw inwards until you feel a resistance, then back the screw off about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn, insert the "lock nut" and spring, and install the "plug". Then, using the cable adjuster on the outside of the cover, adjust the cable. Add oil.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Big tip 'o' the hat to harleyds96 for giving me the impetus to get after it and tear the lamp down and sort it out. You'll need a precision Phillips #1 screw driver to remove the 8 screws. You'll have to pry the 4 little rubber pads off that double as screw hiders
Once you've carefully separated the bottom plate from the rest of the pedestal, you'll see that you need an extra set of hands to hold the plate, amber glow ring, and the main lamp body with, while you fight with the little fuse box in the center of the lamp.
They all have to be held, because the speaker wire runs through the amber ring to the bottom pad, and can't be unplugged, 'cuz it's soldered. No spade connectors, nah, that'd be too easy - and complicated. They'd like to make it so much easier to toss out another $80 for a replacement, 'cuz you stupidly lost the receipt!
So now that you've got everything separated, you discover that there's another two screws holding the ends of the fuse box to the main body of the lamp. Yes, they must be taken out too, so's you can properly fight with the four little clasps holding the fuse box together!
If you can get it popped open without ripping wires from their solder connection, you're a neurosurgeon! I lucked out, 'cuz I did the operation whilst sitting at the computer desk, so the bottom two pieces could rest on it, without ripping the speaker wires off of the speaker, while at the same time, the main body of the lamp was resting in my lap.
Now that you've succeeded in getting the box open, you'll see that you have that little fuse there, that the Harley lady mentioned above found. It's stamped - 1A/250 V, which, I suppose, would mean it could be plugged in down undah, where they use 240 volts.
So I'm going to see if I can find a 2A/250V fuse somewhere, and if that's too hot for it - TOUGH! I'll have a Harley Davidson plastic patty melt! vonster.vaughn
Posted on Oct 10, 2010
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