Brand new 2017 dm2652rbx out of box has clean power 120vac and 12vdc and gas supply good, I'm plugged into shore power permanently 50amp service.

You haven't given much information that allows anyone to help you, but it seems that you are having a problem with your boat. What sort of boat is it? How many batteries does it have? What kind of battery switches does it have? How is the generator wired to provide 12VDC power anyway? Ordinarily, your generator is providing 120VAC. The only 12VDC power that the generator provides is possibly from the attached alternator that is charging the generator's battery. Does the generator start from it's own battery? Does the generator battery also serve your interior loads? (that would be unusual) Have your messed around with your batteries or battery switches lately? Likewise, shore power is 120VAC, so the only way that could be producing 12VDC would be through a battery charger. Without more information, it seems that there is a problem with your "house" battery, battery switch(es), battery wiring or battery connections. If you have a multimeter, I would suggest tracking down the sources of 12VDC power to find where you have 12v DC and where you don't. That should give you some clue as to where the problem is located. Most likely, your house (interior) battery is dead, but when you run your generator or connect to shore power, you have 120VAC power and your battery charger(s) are turned on and providing 12VDC to your interior loads. Good luck.

Is your unit a 50amp unit? If so it sounds like you are only getting only half of the of the 240v. The way it works is you have 2 - 120v legs of power or phases. When one goes out then half the unit would not work. Your shore power could be the issue, your hookup cord, or your main breaker. If you have a volt tester i would test the shore power first to make sure you have 240v there. Then plug in your cord to the shore power and check to see if you have 240v there. Or if you are comfortable with it, i would open my breaker panel and check the power at the main breaker.

I would be checking the main breakers on the panel to insure one didnt trip when you added generator electric. is there a breaker on the outside line at the box you may be missing? Also keep in mind, although uncommon, breakers do BREAK and need replacing. are you competent enough to use a volt meter to check the hot leads on the box and at your unit breaker box to insure you are getting power into the unit? In some older units the switch between land power and generator power was to manually throw breaker switches but automatic processors have replace them now... I would say start at the residential plug in and verify power is where it should be along the route of the supply cord...from the meter forward... if you have a converter plug, say from the 220V 30 amp that you are probably drawing down to 110V household, stick that on the meter and plug in your toaster to insure there is power coming in....IF YOU DONT HAVE A METER AVAILABLE... otherwise...test test test... your generator probably broke a circuit somewhere... now just to find it..

no statement at all its use;. sure a BOAT, got you there,
how is this inverter connected on both ends.
one end is DC other is AC out. right>?
12vdc input (the big red/black wires) not reversed nor fuse blow, to these pair.
the output is a large AC power jack pure sign wave AC power. it does, means can run computers and things that hate cheap chopper type inverters.

why did you say connected to shore power(AC)
that is not its purpose or job ever. that.
its purpose is to convert, DC battery power to AC POWER
at up to 1200VA (watts)
that is about enough power to run a toaster.(almost)

do not ever connect shore 120VAC power to that large connector on the front of this inverter or you will blow it straight to H3LL
and worse a fire.
the jack there is marked OUTPUT, so connecting short AC output to inverter output is super wrong and dangerous.
I can tell you shore power will win the bucking war here,
boom fuse blows, fire, and smoke can happen., and will. 1 or all 3.

answer 2: connected right (per makers web site see it)?
battery main boat not dead or just disharged. 12.6vdc is good, less bad.
AC jack output on inverter works with say a desk lamp 120VAC 100watts , if not the inverter fuses blow or bad inverter.
some you can hear it sing, ear to casing. (inverter oscillator inside)

The microwave and outlets are on a 115-120vAC source running through the breakers box. The lights are 12vDC running through the converter then to the fuse panel. Locate the inverter in the compartments up front, possibly behind a panel that can slide or screws to hold the panel. Depending on the Mfr if the inverter, you should see a blade style buss fuse on the side, typically near the 12vDC output. Use a multimeter to check for the 120vAC input and 12vDC output. AC power-yes and DC power-no, check the fuse, replace if necessary. If the fuse is good, the inverter has blown and needs to be replaced. If you have AC & DC power on the inverter, go to the batteries and check for voltage without the inverter supplying power. Pull the fuse off the inverter or switch the battery disconnect switch. If the batteries have little to no voltage, cells may be dead. Take the batteries to a local auto parts store to get checked to see if the battery needs a charge or replacement.

At most large chain "Wally-World" type stores there are 110-120vac to 12vdc wall wort type of adapters. These adapters are simply plugged into a typical home outlet (110-120vac) while the 12vdc male end of the multi voltage device plugs directly into the adapter. (Compare output current specs of adapter to be sure it's adequate for devices you plan to power up)

You need a AC to DC power supply capable of supplying 120VAC in, 12VDC out @ 1 amp (1000 mA). The center of the plug must be + and the outside -. I believe Dell supports these speakers and may have the power supply available. Radio Shack might have a substitute PS as well, you just have to match the plug size. Be careful what you pay for it, a new pair of these speakers can be purchased for around $20.

Here is a 12v 1500mA adapter (the mA rating can be higher that what you need, but not lower) from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.… but its more expensive that a new set of speakers.

Usually from the Bottom of the refrigerator you should have minimum of 43f or colder than ambient. Should work very close to same on both gas and 110, on Dc it may not cool as good. From your description you may have an issue with ventilation. Cold air needs to flow in through the lower vent and out through the upper, if it cant, cooling efficiency is lost. Adding a fan kit can help on hot days. On gas you may have particles that fell down in the burner. Just take the cover off, take the burner screw out and blow down into burner to clean out. compressor or canned air works fine. If cleaning the burner doesn't improve it enough on gas to match electric you have to make sure your regulator on your rv has enough pressure... the fridges require 11 inches of water column.

Hi Sandra,

I assume you have no LED’s lit when you raise and lower the washer lid or press a Wash Cycle or Spin Only cycle. This may not be an easy fix but this how I would proceed to troubleshoot.

From the machine schematic I see no fuses or circuit breakers in the machine that could cause loss of 120VAC distribution to the washer Control Board or other relay inputs. This is what I can tell from washer schematic. 120VAC comes into the machine passes thru and EMI filter is then distributed to the Control Board for +12VDC and +3.3VDC generation and 120VAC distribution to the main system relay, motor control board, drain pump, door locks/unlock solenoid and so on. I would start looking with my DVM to see if I had 120VAC at connector P6-1 the L1 (120VAC) input to the control board referenced to P6-3 or 4 the 120VAC neutral connection. If you have 120VAC at those points I would look to see if I had +12VDC power generated by the control board +12VDC power supply.

+12VDC could be measured at the Control Board Conn P3 Pin 3 or 4 referenced to Control Board common Conn P3 Pin 1. If there was no +12VDC generated by the Control Board I would replace the control Board and see if that restores normal operation. What I’m describing is the troubleshooting path I would take as an electronics technician. If you call in a repair service run my suggestion by them and see what they would suggest. I would make sure they bring out a Control Board for your machine. The Control Board has a 5 yr warranty. They will need your model number which you have and the serial number of your machine. The s/n is located on the back right side of the console. I will attach a couple links for reference. The Service Manual link has Maytag warranty contact info.

Let’s also see if another forum member can offer a solution to this issue that I may be overlooking.

The Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference.

Good luck and let us know if you have additional questions.
Rich

1. Make sure the AC power source is ok.
2. Make sure the AC power cord is good with no damage.
3. Look to see if there is a reset button on the rear of the set. If not, then look for a blown AC fuse inside the set.

Since the set works fine on +12VDC, the majority of the TV set is ok. You have a problem in the AC power supply. It could be a blown fuse, bad rectifier / regulator, bad step-down transformer.

The TV typically runs from +12VDC. The AC supply steps-down the 120VAC and rectifies it into +12VDC to power the TV. At some point in the TV, there is junction point where the +12VDC from the sets internal AC supply meets the external +12VDC power source. Usually they are electrically isolated from each other with a switch or with diodes.

Please let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.

Good luck!

- Jim