I have checked the high limit thermostat, cycle thermostat, thermal fuse, thermal cut off, timer and heater coil, so far all read as having the correct resistance/continuity. I'm also reading 240 volts at the outlet and at the hot contacts on the back of the dryer. Finally while running I'm reading 120 volts for each side of the heating element, I assume this is supposed to be 240 volts but I cannot figure out why it's only 120 on both sides.
Heat circuit also runs through timer. Unplug machine. Access timer. Remove two biggest wires(usually black and red). With timer on a heat setting, check for continuity between 2 spades where wires were fastened. If no continuity, timer is bad.
Looks like the timer was good, I bypassed the relay for the heating element controlled by the even heat board and the element works so it must be the board was not triggering the relay. Thanks for the timer info though!
Yes if it has the even heat board then that is most likely your problem
×
I would suspect the control panel is defective.
Is there any way to test the components on the control panel to determine which one failed? There's the heat selector and a relay that it attaches to. Perhaps one of those?
They are sold as a unit not parts of a unit.
I think you're right. I bypassed the relay for the heating element controlled by the "even heat" board and the element works so it must be the board was not triggering the relay. I'll order a replacement.
×
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer 110.64632300 won't heat up!
vent pipe kinked not letting heat away from dryer, check vent , or the thermostt stuck and not cycling heating element cycle off
SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer not heating
The motor has to be running for voltage to exit the motor going to the heater. With the back off the dryer and the motor running you should read 220 volts at the heater if all safetys and thermostats are good.
There is a thermal cut out relay on the heat canister. It must read continuity also.
Remember you must remove at least one wire from each component being tested to get a true open or closed reading. If a wire is left connected you get a false reading.
The heating element could be broken and part of the heater wire touching the canister. This would cause a continuity reading and still no heat.
Finally, yes,the centrifugal switch in the motor could be bad and not sending power to the heater on the red wire.
Testimonial: "I did determine it to be the cetrepetal switch..specifically the slide for the weights was heavily gummed up with dryer belt dust. It works now."
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer - No Heat
110 comes from the motor 110 comes from the timer remove the wire that comes from the motor see if you have 110 if you do the timer is bad if not the motor is. even if the motor is turning its bad
243 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×