Question about Sunbeam Food Mixers
OK, this may not be a solution, but might help you get there.
The speed control is NOT a potentiometer, it is a mechanical governer, and may be out of adjustment, or one of two components in the speed control mechanism has failed. The following is a test/ adjustment procedure.
During this procedure you will not be fiddling with electrical components (No risk of shock) You will be making adjustments with the motor running.
In the centre of the speed finder dial is a chrome cap. This can be *carefully* pried out. Be gentle, it's easy to chip the phenolic resin plastic.
Behind this cap is a nut around a threaded part with a screwdriver slot. Using a spanner and screwdriver to stop the centre part turning, loosen the nut some.
Turn the speed finder dial to 1. Plug the motor in and switch on. Whilst restraining the outer nut with a spanner, turn the central screw. From memory, it needs to be turned clockwise, that is, screwed inwards. The motor should respond by slowing down. Should you get no speed change, try turning the screw the other way some.
If you get a speed change, continue turning the screw in that direction until the motor stops. Now screw the other way until the motor just starts again.
This is the lowest speed and corresponds to 1 on the dial. Check the speed finder dial is still pointing to the 1 position. Lock the adjustment screw by restraining the central part, and turning the nut clockwise with the spanner until tight. Try turning the dial to see that the speed changes smoothly throughout the range. You may need to tweak the adjustment a little to get things just right.
Once you're happy with the speed control refit the chrome button, and you're done.
If you could get no speed change, one of two components under the speed finder dial has indeed failed.
Now you will need to determine just what the machine is worth to you. A motor specialist should be able to diagnose which part has failed. However, new parts will not physically fit and modifications will be needed. This could prove costly. If you know an inveterate tinkerer, you're costs could be substantially lowered.
Best of Luck.
Posted on Jul 11, 2009
The speed control on the back is simply a variable resistance potentiometer, the same thing that controls the volume on older amplifiers. The output current to the motor is supplied by the printed circuit board in the bottom of the unit. This allows gradual increases in speed to avoid over-torquing the motor on speedup. Even the poshy-posh-posh mixers do this.
At least it still works. The most common problem is the cheap plastic drive gears that strip out with a mild cookie dough, this jams the beaters together and requires burial-at-dumpster.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.
On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-
There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.
On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.
Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.
Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.
Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.
The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.
After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)
Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.
Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.
Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..
There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.
Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.
Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.
Part 2, speed control.
The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....
Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.
Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.
Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.
Put everything back the way it came off.
To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.
Replace the chrome cap and you're done.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
For mixmaster junior, but should be relevent to many old sunbeams:
That's not the power cord going to the speed switch. You don't need to get those screws off.
To replace the cord:
Cut the old power cord near where it enters the blender.
remove the two front screws, pull off front housing.
remove 1/4" nuts found in recesses of exposed front plate.
pull speed handle out far enough to get a screwdriver under exposed front plate, and pry gently. It'll come off as it's a friction fit.
cooling fan blade is now visible, you need to remove it.
pry up gently on the teeth attaching it to the motor shaft.
Work your way around the 4 sets of teeth, it'll come off. Don't lose the two washers.
unscrew the electrical contacts.
take off the speednuts holding the brush assembly in place.
gently pull up on the brush assembly with a needle nose, until it comes out.
now remove the screws holding the motor coils in place. They're the same ones the speednuts attached to, and have hex heads you can get at with a needlenose.
once those are out, pull on the motor coils gentle, and wiggle them out of the housing.
You'll see the stub of the old power cord at the back of it.
Get a round replacement wire of the right diameter, thread it through the cord hole in the blender, and connect it up to the coils.
-I had to drill the power cord hole 1/16" larger than it was to get a modern cord to fit through it.
On the stub of the old cord, you'll see a metal ring which serves to anchor the cord in blender body. remove it (screwdriver + needlenose and pry), and attach to new cord at the righ position.
Put everything back together, being careful not to bust the carbon brushes.
Congrats, you now have a functional blender with a cord that won't try to electrocute you.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
Hi JENNY, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Do not despair; there is a way to fix your KA mixer. From the symptoms you’re describing is sounds like your mixer’s (speed) Control Assembly and/or the Hall Effect Sensor has gone bad and either one or both parts need to be replaced.
As your mixer is out of warranty, the inspection and troubleshooting of the control assembly is something you can do yourself, particularly if your mixer is out of warranty. Just be sure to have the correct Part List manual around when you start to disassemble your mixer.
If you're lacking one, you can download it from the KA website at: http://www.kitchenaid.com/flash.cmd?/#/page/home
Click on Customer Care>Locate Manuals & Guides, and enter the 6 character model number, in this case, KN15E1X, and then select the first file, KN15E1XBW0.pdf (335.24 KB) that appears under Parts List (17). (check to see if this matches your mixer model).
Turn to pages 4 & 5 titled, "Case, Gearing and Planetary Assembly", which provides an exploded view for the assembly and disassembly of the mixer and locate Illus. Nos.8 & 9, Control Assembly and Hall Effect Sensor, respectively. I suspect one or both of these parts that are the cause of your mixer’s speed woes. Since the (speed) Control Assembly is the more complicated of the two, that’s where I’d focus my attention. The Hall Effect sensor is a very simple device and rarely goes bad.
First check to see if any of the connections have come loose from your Control Assembly. If everything looks tight then you need to replace it. Unfortunately the whole controller assembly is on a little PC board filled with resistors and capacitors, which was not meant to be 'home fixed' and my 'expertise' ends there. A local small appliance repair shop should be able to determine if the controller assembly is functioning properly or not. Or you can just order replacement parts without the testing.
As far as parts go, here are four potential vendors in no particular order: RepairClinic.com; mendingshed.com; searspartsdirect.com; partstore.com. Prices for the same part can vary widely between vendors, so do your comparison shopping.
Here are some links to several excellent websites that detail the disassembling/reassembly of a KA Mixer. The mixers displayed in the links are different KA models, but the principles are the same.
Posted on Jan 04, 2010
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