Unable to locate replacement heating element part for Kenmore Dryer #592-89047-01. I have called every part replacement website, EVEN Kenmore's, and no one is able to locate this model OR it's parts.

SOURCE: Dryer runs but doesn't heat up when sttings call for heat.

You may need to do some troubleshooting. This can be done with the machine unplugged - you may have to activate the start switch, belt switch (if it has one) and the motor centrifugal switch manually.
Tip for troubleshooting 220v systems - clip one lead of a ohm meter to either L1 or L2 on the terminal block. It doesn't matter which one. According to the tech sheet (under console) follow the path for current from your clipped terminal, through the heating element, to the opposite terminal. All the readings should be less than 100 ohms, until you reach the failed part. Confirm failure by disconnecting a lead from the suspected part, and test only that part.

Live troubleshooting is sometimes slightly easier, but much more dangerous than the procedure described above. - It is definitely not recommended for beginners, or for professionals, if it can be avoided.

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer model 96273100 no heat.

If the dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat, any of the following components could be bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat



If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

Based on the model number you provided, I'm assuming this dryer can be accessed by removing the back panel.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two RED leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set.

I hope this information is helpful to you. Post back if you have any further questions, or need assistance in finding replacement parts.

SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts

that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in

john gagnon

• 943 Answers
• Posted on Sep 15, 2008

SOURCE: Need to replace the heating element in stackable Kenmore model 417.98702891

hi thanks for the question just underneath the dryer on the front theres a panel remove this panel the element is on the right thanks for the question the appliance doc

SOURCE: cant find heating element for kenmore 80 series dryer

it should be in a housing mounted just inside the back panel. unlatch the housing from its mounts and the element slides out from the bottom