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This problem on model HCN473WX was fixed by a Samsung authorized repair center july 06((both IC's STK302040 on convergence ) - 1 month later the same thing happened - this time they took the set and held it for about 2 weeks - returned it and it ran fine for about 4 months- now the same problem is back. (out of warrantee). I have some experience in electronics, and took a look at the CG board and noticed a cluster of resistors that appeared to be burnt (RZ123,124125,126). Rechecked solder joints for IC's replaced and they look ok. Does anyone have the specks for this cluster of resistors.
I was wondering if the IC's could possibly be blown again, and if so how would know?I was wondering if the IC's could possibly be blown again, and if so how would know?
Thanks for the start - I finaly got the Service manual for this TV. I traced the problem back to an open fuse FD102S - rechecked/ replaced the resistors that looked to be burnt out. Replaed the fuse too. Tried the board again and the same same thing happened. Checked the fuse FD102S and once again it's open.
Any thing else I can look at?
Thanks JImThanks for the start - I finaly got the Service manual for this TV. I traced the problem back to an open fuse FD102S - rechecked/ replaced the resistors that looked to be burnt out. Replaed the fuse too.
Tried the board again and the same same thing happened.
Checked the fuse FD102S and once again it's open.
Any thing else I can look at?
Thanks JIm
Thanks troylove11 - I took a good look at the board under a strong magnifying/light - what I found was not a surprise. At 2 of the 3 areas that had burned resistors (replaced them all anyway) I noticed that the foil had was pulling away from the board. I checked to make sure that the foil was not damaged and it conducting to the next component.
I looked at every component in the the circuits with the burnt itmes and the fuse - this was all in the same major cluster.
It sounds more like the Ic's at this point don't you think? But shouldn't there be a short in some cap/resistor to make the fuse trip again.Thanks troylove11 - I took a good look at the board under a strong magnifying/light - what I found was not a surprise. At 2 of the 3 areas that had burned resistors (replaced them all anyway) I noticed that the foil had was pulling away from the board. I checked to make sure that the foil was not damaged and it conducting to the next component.
I looked at every component in the the circuits with the burnt itmes and the fuse - this was all in the same major cluster.
It sounds more like the Ic's at this point don't you think? But shouldn't there be a short in some cap/resistor to make the fuse trip again.
Thanks for all the help - I did get the set working again - it was a mix of the resistors that were burnt as well as the fuse that blew - but I did as I was told and replaced everything in the cluster that looked to be the problem.
I don't know if I have to give credit to anyone - but I will just tell me how.
Thanks for all the help - I did get the set working again - it was a mix of the resistors that were burnt as well as the fuse that blew - but I did as I was told and replaced everything in the cluster that looked to be the problem.
I don't know if I have to give credit to anyone - but I will just tell me how.
Once again THANKS to everyone that helped me find a solution to my problem. The support I received was right on the money. Response to my post were fast and to the point.
I will definitely pass the word around that this site is money well spent! To get the kind of help I got - at the time I needed it - from so many experts makes this a value you can't beat.
both the IC's STK392-040 fuse - FD102s - (was open) caps - CZ140, CZ141,CZ117,CZ138 resistors - RZ123,124,125,126,127,128,130,130a,131,131a,
Repaired damage to foil (at 2 areas where the resistors burnt)
Checked all component solder joints (new and old)
Installed board and TV picture was better than the repair center FIX.
Ran perfect focus - then did a convergence adjustment to top it of.
MY SET IS NOW 100 % - WITH THE HELP OF FIX-YA
Thanks guy for everything!!
I can't figure out were to apply the rating/credit once I get to my account. Once again THANKS to everyone that helped me find a solution to my problem. The support I received was right on the money. Response to my post were fast and to the point.
I will definitely pass the word around that this site is money well spent! To get the kind of help I got - at the time I needed it - from so many experts makes this a value you can't beat.
Jcotee,
If you will take a little time to read my solutions regarding
Samsung convergence repairs, the # 1cardinal rule is never use
seconds when replacing STK392-040 IC's ! Absolutely,positively
with no doubt, use OEM quality or better IC's !! First quality =
name brand = I use Panasonic only when replacing STK392-040
and I have had ZERO re-calls........I have replaced dozens of pairs for my customers....yes, they paid more for parts,but their
sets are still working to this day......Stop inflicting unnecessary
damage........START with first quality IC's......then check fuses
and resistors and traces, etc...................................T.
I don't know where you live in USA, but here in Calif. you have
extended warranty on inferior parts installed by original servicer.
After completing your repair, ask him to re-imburse you for parts
cost....it's the least he could do....................T.jcotee,
I don't know where you live in USA, but here in Calif. you have
extended warranty on inferior parts installed by original servicer.
After completing your repair, ask him to re-imburse you for parts
cost....it's the least he could do....................T.
Give the highest rating to the one who gave you the best
guidance for solving your problem..................Give the highest rating to the one who gave you the best
guidance for solving your problem..................
Remember one and all .....THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISION IS........First grade quality STK392-040 ONLY ! NO GENERICS !
I USE PANASONIC ONLY PART # C5AA00000107.........T.Remember one and all .....THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISION IS........First grade quality STK392-040 ONLY ! NO GENERICS !
I USE PANASONIC ONLY PART # C5AA00000107.........T.
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I think the voltage is coming to that resistors are too high and the samsung repairmen do the same so completely identify the voltage of ICS and then put newer one
Hi i have found that when i need the spec sheet and specs for any tvs i have found this site brilliant and had everything i needed here it is http://www.download.nitd.co.uk/news.php you might need to download this to open the file i did but you might have similar one on yuor comp all ready http://www.downloads.zdnet.com/download.aspx... let me know how you get on hope this is some help
The possibility is they are blown as when the resistors when this would have probably caused the ic to go as well did they replace the resistors the first time round or just the ics as if they just replaced the ic their is the possibilty that their was a bad solder on one or a couple of the resistors this causing the ics to go you might be lucky and get away with replacing the resistors but the chances are the ics need replacing as well.
didnt you find anything on the link i gave you was it any help?The possibility is they are blown as when the resistors when this would have probably caused the ic to go as well did they replace the resistors the first time round or just the ics as if they just replaced the ic their is the possibilty that their was a bad solder on one or a couple of the resistors this causing the ics to go you might be lucky and get away with replacing the resistors but the chances are the ics need replacing as well.
didnt you find anything on the link i gave you was it any help?
you would have to trace everything back from the ic's and check all resistors this is what should have been replaced the first time along with the ic's this is probably the route of your problem you will need to check everything as in troylove11 postyou would have to trace everything back from the ic's and check all resistors this is what should have been replaced the first time along with the ic's this is probably the route of your problem you will need to check everything as in troylove11 post
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This maybe the problem why it is repeating. They didn't change all return resistors. they are different sizes all are probably smaller than 100 ohms. You will need the exact size and there are caps that maybe bad and maybe fuses also
Possible if you ran set long enough to overheat I would try resistors first and if no improvement Then replace amps again and this time resistors. Resistors are very inexpensive so you can get 2 or 3 of each ones. Amps on the other hand are not.Possible if you ran set long enough to overheatI would try resistors first and if no improvementThen replace amps again and this time resistors.Resistors are very inexpensive so you can get 2 or 3 of each ones.Amps on the other hand are not.
If fuses still blows, then there is still a short somewhere. I would look around for another fuse open or bad resistor. Now it could be what you don't want to hear. A bad amp again. This is why all parts need to be changed at the sametime.If fuses still blows, then there is still a short somewhere. I would look around for another fuse open or bad resistor. Now it could be what you don't want to hear. A bad amp again. This is why all parts need to be changed at the sametime.
Jcotee, I have a variable a/c powersupply that I use in this case. If you have the resources, I would get the schematic, get the parts again change all of them out again and before plugging to your home outlet, run on the a/c VPS and check the voltages that the schematic gives. This is the life of a Technician!Jcotee, I have a variable a/c powersupply that I use in this case. If you have the resources, I would get the schematic, get the parts again change all of them out again and before plugging to your home outlet, run on the a/c VPS and check the voltages that the schematic gives. This is the life of a Technician!
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This is a website where members try to help users with problems in a variety of categories. It does not sell cameras. You may wish to direct your problem to a Samsung Service Center by using the link below:
Samsung Service Center Locations
That would be your Convergence, Encompass Parts Distribution
has Convergence Module for $50.00 that goes to a HCR5245WX/XAA 1-800-638-3328
Or you can just replace ICs will have STK on them
Mats has ICs 1-800-628-1118
Always replace both once your going to the trouble each IC is usually less than $30.
This link will help show you what's involved. convergence output IC problem. convergence board would have to be removed - remove and replace 2 STK IC's and check the surrounding resistors. Shops usually $200-$400 Be sure to vote/rate me if this helped Thanks! See link for more detail http://www.ehow.com/how_4575598_yourself-projection-tv-repair-convergence.html
If you cannot adjust the convergence and the lines will not move, there are other problems that you will need to consider. Your symptom sounds like a damaged convergence IC.
You should be able to get a local service center to repair this at your house for between $350.00 - $450.00, If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you. While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky. If you have a 45W soldering iron, solder, solder wick, and heat sink compound you can repair it yourself.
When you remove the old IC's, please be sure to remove all of the old heat sink compound, as it can act as an insulation for the new IC's and cause them to overheat. I usually clean the heat sinks with alcohol and a small rag.
There are two and large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. Some of the newer sets only have one. If you only have one, it is right in the middle of the set on the center circuit board. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. They will have a part number stamped on them that will start with an STKXXX-XXX, like STK392-110. You can use the STK392-150's as well on this set.
Along with the convergence IC’s there will also be some associated components that will need to be replaced as well. There are some resistors that are part of the convergence circuit that will be open and need to be replaced. Most likely these will appear charred in the center. If you have an Ohm Meter or a DVM, check all the resistors that are close to the IC’s and you should be looking for either ones that have opened or have changed values.
If one of the convergence IC’s are found to be bad, I would replace them both, if one has gone bad the other may go soon. I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need. Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666 I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.
I would also advise that the convergence IC’s be OEM or better, just because they are cheap does not mean that they are a good deal. I have seen the cheap IC’s fail after a short time, even though they look exactly like the OEM IC’s. I think that the bottom line is that you will get what you pay for when it comes to the parts.
You can also try http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ , they carry OEM or better parts. They will also include instructions and the other components that you may need.
I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further. Thanks for using FixYa asnowman
I have attached some photos of really bad convergence problems; your picture may not be exactly as bad as these.
Good Day, bpieper65;
You want fix and cost cost? Well if you have skills of soldering of electronic devices you can do this and you can get the parts from B&D Enterprises; 1-800-458-6053;www.bdent.com. Repairing ityour self will cost you about $50.00 and 2.5 to 3.0 hours of work if all goes well.
If you call an Authorized Sevice Center, that will warranty their repair, it will cost between $300.00 to $600.00.
I hope his was helpful, Good Luck, big IRISH.
There are two ic that should be replaced in convergence. It is like doing your breaks on your car you should do both sides. the parts are only 30. dollars.there are differant kinds for each model
stk 392-150 or stk392-040 so on the part you need will be on the convergence .make sure you check the resistor around convergence ics if they are burned you have to replace them to.
a tv shop charges around 300.00 to fix this repair
good luck
The tv shuts on and off by itself and the timer light flashes while doing so. I unpluged it for a couple of days and plugged it back in. The tv worked for about 5 hours and then it started shutting on and off again by itself.
you may need to do convergence to align the colors up. the only thing other than the ic that need to be replaced are resisters and if the resisters are bad you would not be able to move one of the colors, and blow out the ic you just installed.
I retired from the TV repair business because if you are not an authorized repair service center most manufacturers will not even talk to you. If you are electronically inclined you can repair this tv. your problem is a bad convergence ic. you need to be able to locate it and replace it. it probably has about 15 or 18 legs that need to be unsoldered and a new replacement re-installed
Everybody here seems to have basically the same problem so I will write a general fix for these Samsungs. First what you got is known as Convergence failure, A Ic or resistor, fuse or some other component has failed in the convergence circuit. So finding the service menu and trying to align the colors or spinning magnets on the CRT’s or a real bad idea of tipping a CRT or mirror would be the equitant of ripping the transmission out of your car because it had a flat tire. When the convergence fails no adjustment will bring it back, and if you do one of these stupid things then you have two problems. Now most of these Samsungs have an easily replicable board that all the convergence amplifiers are on. This can be found by removing the back and seeing if there is a board about 9 X 5 inches big and mounted to the CRT mounts, there will be 5 connector to this board. Now if your set does not have this board and instead has the two convergence Ic’s (these are about the size of a playing card and have the numbers STK392-040 on them) mount down on a board below and to the right ( this is known as the deflection board) this repair will not work for you. Instead you will need to component level repair the convergence circuit. But if you do have this separate convergence board the repair is fairly straight forward. Go to www.vancebaldwin.com or some other supplier and order BP95-00142E this is the convergence board. This board has been crossed several times through the years but this is the current version. Now once you get this board simply replace it making sure to get al the connector back in there original spot. The fire up the set and run Flash focus and for about 95% this will fix the set
I was wondering if the IC's could possibly be blown again, and if so how would know?
Thanks for the start - I finaly got the Service manual for this TV. I traced the problem back to an open fuse FD102S - rechecked/ replaced the resistors that looked to be burnt out. Replaed the fuse too.
Tried the board again and the same same thing happened.
Checked the fuse FD102S and once again it's open.
Any thing else I can look at?
Thanks JIm
Thanks troylove11 - I took a good look at the board under a strong magnifying/light - what I found was not a surprise. At 2 of the 3 areas that had burned resistors (replaced them all anyway) I noticed that the foil had was pulling away from the board. I checked to make sure that the foil was not damaged and it conducting to the next component.
I looked at every component in the the circuits with the burnt itmes and the fuse - this was all in the same major cluster.
It sounds more like the Ic's at this point don't you think? But shouldn't there be a short in some cap/resistor to make the fuse trip again.
Thanks for all the help - I did get the set working again - it was a mix of the resistors that were burnt as well as the fuse that blew - but I did as I was told and replaced everything in the cluster that looked to be the problem.
I don't know if I have to give credit to anyone - but I will just tell me how.
Once again THANKS to everyone that helped me find a solution to my problem. The support I received was right on the money. Response to my post were fast and to the point.
I will definitely pass the word around that this site is money well spent! To get the kind of help I got - at the time I needed it - from so many experts makes this a value you can't beat.
____________________________________________________________________________
What I did was REPLACE:
both the IC's STK392-040
fuse - FD102s - (was open)
caps - CZ140, CZ141,CZ117,CZ138
resistors - RZ123,124,125,126,127,128,130,130a,131,131a,
Repaired damage to foil (at 2 areas where the resistors burnt)
Checked all component solder joints (new and old)
Installed board and TV picture was better than the repair center FIX.
Ran perfect focus - then did a convergence adjustment to top it of.
MY SET IS NOW 100 % - WITH THE HELP OF FIX-YA
Thanks guy for everything!!
I can't figure out were to apply the rating/credit once I get to my account.
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