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Posted on Sep 22, 2018
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I have a older whirlpool dryer LHE580 with wiring confusion at the hi limit thermostat and heating element. 3 red wires and one white wire go somewhere but don't want to guess. How do they connect?

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Virgil Watts

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  • Whirlpool Expert 267 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2021
Virgil Watts
Whirlpool Expert
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Joined: Jul 16, 2010
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There should be a wiring diagram in the dryer somwhere unless someone took it out take the cover off the back of the control console it's usely ther or some are glued on you can see it when you lift the console. Hope this helps if not go to an appliance dealer & ask them they will have a diagram.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 44 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 09, 2008

SOURCE: how to wire hunter 44155

Go to the hunter web site. They will have the proper wiring diagrams on the site. If you cannot do that pick up a basic wiring book at your local electric parts supplier. the place you got the thermostat would be a good start. I do know that menards has some books in the electric area that would be a great help to you. You also will need to be sure that the thermostat is able to handle both air and heat. many only do heat. If this does not help let me know and I will try and get more information to you

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Anonymous

  • 770 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 20, 2008

SOURCE: Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

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Anonymous

  • Posted on Mar 26, 2008

SOURCE: Wiring a Dayton Greenhouse Thermostat to control an exhaust fan

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docjohn174

john gagnon

  • 943 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 12, 2008

SOURCE: Maytag dryer MDE4000AYW change 3 prong to a 4 prong

HI thanks for your question. the red to red black to black white to white green goes to the fram of the dryer. thanks hope i was helpful. please rate my answer.

Anonymous

  • 410 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 16, 2009

SOURCE: thermostat wiring goodman model aruf032-ooa-1b

is this a heat pump or straight cool with heat strips?

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0helpful
2answers

I changed the heating element in my whirlpool dryer (older model). I replaced it but the wires to the element and the wires to the thermostat are similar. 3 are red and 1 is red with a white stripe. I am...

there should be a red and then a red and white wire going to the element and the wires going to the element are thicker than the t-stat wires,also if it's an older machine if you just let the wires hang free they should almost line up to where they should go because they've been in that position for a while.
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1answer

I am trying to take the back off of my Whirlpool clothes dryer model LEQ8611LW1 to replace the heating element, but the back will not come off. How do I get to the heating element?

The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.
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Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.
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Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.

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Note:

The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards.
0helpful
1answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

0helpful
1answer

The old element has 3 wires the new element only

You need to take the high limit thermostat off of the old element. It sits over one of the terminals of the heating element, and has two termnals on it. It should just be one screw to take it off.
3helpful
2answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?

Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


0helpful
1answer

Dryer heating element

To the heating element goes Red and Red with White.
To the Hi-limit thermostat goes Red with White and Black.
To the Thermal cut-off goes Black and Red.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/vitaliy_f406165329c75ede

0helpful
1answer

Whirlpool dryer LER5636EZ3

hi thanks for your question make sure you have 240 volts at dryyer dicconnect dryer from power source check for ohms at the element take one wire off and check at element there could be another thermostat that sometimes is missed because its on the heater housing at the top of housing check that the appliance doc
Sep 14, 2008 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

I have an electric whirlpool dryer and had to buy a new heating element the problem is that I don't have a clue what wires go where. I have 2 red wires and an orange one but I'm not sure which ones hook to...

small orange goes to small terminal on hi limit thermostat you'll find only one of the red wires will fit the terminal on element it is slightly bigger than terminal on hi limit
9helpful
2answers

Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring

the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element
Feb 20, 2008 • Dryers
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2answers

Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101

Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.
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