SOURCE: Whirlpool ADP951 Dishwasher
Processor board sound bad. May be a loose plug ( or corroded connection on the plug ) . Unplug the dish washer from the wall plug before servicing. The open the front panel to expose the panel control board. Unplug the panel plugs and inspect them to assure no corrotion is apparent. If you see corrotion, use a pencil erracer to clean all contact points on the board and clean the plug the best possible. Plug the dishwasher plug back in the wall and check the unit for proper operation. If the operation is not correct, replace the circuit board. I hope this helps
Ed
NC Electronic
Mills, Wyoming
SOURCE: Indesit 24 in. DI67
Hi there
I have had this problem before. If your dishwasher is not level water collects at the front. Try tilting your machine forwards. Be carefull though as water will come out of the bottom. Once you have done this and reset your machine it should be ok.
SOURCE: help with whirlpool awm 8103/1
Okay, ther manufacturer recommends unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes to reset the computer. It could be you have a momentary glitch causing some problems. If you still have the same problem after leaving the washer unplugged, the following link explains the "FH" error code:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r615354-fh_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore
If your clothes are stuck inside and you still cannot get them out because the door will not unlock, you will have to use the manual release to open the door. The next link explains how:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r622155-kenmore_elite_whirlpool_duet_door_jammed
I hope this helps you. If you require additional assistance, please let me know.
SOURCE: The dishwasher has the normal and economy wash
Hello, welcome to FixYa.
Based on your post, it is likely nothing very serious, but the "resolve" requires some more investigation on your part. The lights indicate an overfill has occurred, saying that I suspect it is actually the drain motor you hear operating constantly.
**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**
The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. If water is present, with the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base...
**it should be known that if you leave the unit for a few days, the water in the base will evaporate hence appearing as everything is fine again...if a problem/leak does exist it will return.**
If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker and soaking up any water present, it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump... (it could mean a faulty drain pump so you'll need to pay close attention the next few times you run it)
...If not, there are a couple of other possibilities that I'd focus on.
**Again insure power to the unit is off**
The first is the float and subsequently, float switch. If you've removed the service panel at the bottom, or toe plate, you need to locate the float and it's switch. It will be located directly behind where your main electrical junction is.
Once you've located the float behind the main connection plate, you should see something like this image below,
i.e.
With the aid of a long screwdriver or if you can reach it, move the float up and down and listen closely for the switch to "click", indicating it is indeed functioning. Restore power again, and see if this resolves the issue, if not try this next...
The pressure switch too can cause the drain/outlet pump to run constantly, the pressure switch is the component which controls the normal fill level and the overfill detection...pre float activation. The float is primarily the last ditch safety to prevent disaster in the event of a overflow, back-flow, or leak underneath the unit to service or call for service to the unit.
It too is located under the machine and is mounted to the sump well assembly as shown, the large arrow indicates the switch while the small is the hose.
i.e.
The issue often can be just the hose going to the switch is clogged with debris such as dirt, detergent buildup etc and will be remedied by blowing it out.
The best way to do this is to remove this hose at the switch in the location indicated above, be very careful as to not break the hose off with the part of the switch inside, they can be delicate.
I typically work it loose with a tiny screw driver gently working it away from the switch. Once removed, pour a small amount of hot water, white vinegar or "CLR" through the sump from within the tub...or you can try blowing it through with "lung power".
The other end of the hose is located at the back of the sump well and is quite vulnerable to blockages over time due to detergents, dirt, and such.
This is the location...do not break this or you will need to replace the entire sump well...no fun.
Large arrow is pointing back to pressure switch, small indicates connection to sump well, sorry for the poor quality...it's hard to get in there with a camera phone, ha ha !
i.e.
Hope this helps move you forward, or even better resolves the issue altogether. Let me know of course, I will help you move further if necessary. Good luck.
Regards,
Macmarkus :)
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