The air conditioning temperature is too hot. The unit runs between 67 and 72. I want to set it to run at 60 degrees. I see the number 4004987 Packaged terminal heat pump.

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

The model number provided does not register. Your model number is located on the inside wall of your fresh food section.

Your freezer is your only source of cooling. It will meet its setting before meeting the refrigerator temperature.

The normal setting are -2 to +2 degrees F. for the freezer and 35 -40 degrees F. for your fresh food section.

Your freezer will go about 10 degrees F. above the set temperature. Then when it reaches 10 degrees F. below the set temperature the compressor will kick in.

You have condensing coils either under your unit or a canister in the back which gets ride of the heat. When the condensing coil is plugged up with dust, this could affect your cooling by as much as 40 degrees.

I do not think this is your total problem.

Feel the face of your separator wall between your freezer and fresh food section. Is it hot?

Your problem is your condenser fan in the lower right back of you unit is burned out.

So, you can not dissipate the heat.

Remove the lower back cover. Take a common household fan to blow air under your unit.

Your compressor is running to make up for the heat that the condenser fan can not dissipate.

You may be hearing the fan run. Normally the fan will run 30-90 seconds after the unit has reached temperature to give you the air that you just paid to condition.
If it is actually the a/c running, that is because the thermostat internally reads in tenths of a degree. So when you set it to say 70 degrees, it is really set to 70.0 degrees. The thermostat will show 70 degrees when it reaches 70.5 degrees and continue to run all the way to 70.0 degrees
Welcome To the Best HVAC

So the ac is not working. Is the compressor running when you have the control set for ac ?

Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.

Does this help to narrow it down for me? How long does it run? How do you restart it? Roger

Due to the many different questions I see about Air Conditioning, I am including this overview to help us better understand each other for trouble shooting. A basic air conditioning system has a Thermostat, Air Handler or Furnace Fan and a Condensing unit. In a split system, the condensing unit (Condenser) is separate from the furnace and usually in the back yard. When working properly, it blows hot air. It connects to the cooling part of the system by 2 copper lines. One large line and 1 small line. The part that cools the house is the "Evaporator" and is usually on top of the furnace inside the square metal box (Plenum). When the Air Conditioner is running, the large copper line should be cold and the smaller line should be warm. Common signs of low refrigerant are that both lines are the same temperature and/or frost or ice has built up on the large line at the condenser. The thermostat will normally display room temperature on till it is touched to change the setting. It could have a "Span" setting as well as times and temperatures. The operating "span" of MOST residential thermostats is 40 to 90 degrees. That means you can set it as low as 40 degrees and no higher than 90 degrees. It probably has a fan switch also. When in the "ON" position, the fan will run constantly, 24 / 7, but the condenser will still cycle on and off as needed to keep the house at set point. If you have a suggestion to include in this paragraph, please let me know.

Take a look at everything above. Let me know what type of help you need. Roger

It's 98 outside ... that says a lot. The gurgling is an indication that you are getting a lot of water out of the air (dehumidifying). If the unit is sized just right, or just a little too small, it may be working perfectly well.

You don't say where you are, geographically, but much to the US has an air conditioning design temperature of 95 degrees F. That means at 95 degrees, the unit will run continuously. With a 50% outside air relative humidity, it should keep the occupied space at about 75 degrees F. The more humid the air, the more the unit works on dehumidifying and less on cooling.

Give it some time, wait unti the weather breaks and see if it doesn't run just like it used to. If you chose to call a technician, have him/her take temperature readings of the condenser entering and leaving air, the suction line temperature, the liquid line temperature, the inside supply and return air temperature (dry bulb and wet bulb) as well as high and low side refrigerant pressures. Before they make ANY changes to the system (refrigerant charge) have them explain what they found wrong and make sure you understand what they are talking about. Adjusting the charge under these conditions, will mess up your operation under normal conditions.

If it is a heat pump, the compressor will be running both in cool mode and in normal heat mode.

Confirm the current indoor temperature. Turn the thermostat up one degree at a time until it comes on. This will typically be 1 to 4 degrees increase. As soon as it comes on stop increasing the temp.

If the compressor is running, it is a heat pump.

Check the temperature coming our of the vents at that time. You should have 30 to 60 degrees increase from the air temp going into the unit and the conditioned air temp coming out.

Then turn the T-stat up another 10 degrees. If the temp coming out of the vents increases by 20 degrees or more. the strips are on.

The strips operate in three situations.
1) the system is set to emergency heat
2) The heat pump cannot keep up with the demand for heat. (because its too cold outside, the desired temp setting is greater than 4 to 8 degrees above the room temp, or the HP is malfunctioning.)
3) The HP is in defrost mode

You could also take the panels off the unit and look for a reversing valve, but unless you know what you are looking for you will not recognise it.

Strange. Does the thermostat control both the air conditioning units and the furnace. If not make sure the furnace thermostat is turned down to below 65 degrees.

Heat pumps in cold climates suffer a number of limitations stemming from the fact that they are designed for air-conditioning applications. As climates become cooler and heating becomes more of the primary HVAC function, one may find that conventional heat pumps lose capacity and do not satisfy the load of the conditioned space. In colder temperatures, a conventional system’s need to defrost can further detract from heating performance. The use of resistance heat or fossil fuels to supplement or replace the vapor cycle. The additional use of supplemental heat to temper cold air blowing into the space during defrosts. As it gets colder outside, the delivery air temperatures inside begin to fall when no supplemental heat is being used. Supply air temperatures that are warmer than the return temperatures add heat to a space, but discomfort occurs when these supply temperatures drop below skin temperature. The air movement can feel cool or even cold. While the heat pump may be operating exactly as intended,the consumer will desire a more comfortable environment.

the unit runs all the time because of the fan (ventilation motor)-but it is not working on cooling or heating all the time - The ventilation motor pushes the air from the room through the machine and when the termostat is reading that you set it up for cooler air or warm air it will turn on the air conditioning part or the heating part of the machine-it is very good system actually