I need to replace a Cubigel starter relay A1G8. How do I find a replacement part?

READ THIS ALL BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.
Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on.
2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on
3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5
4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!
5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on
6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8
7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!
8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!
List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

• READ EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING
• 
  
• NOTE: some vehicles have the starter relay and starter mounted together as 1 unit. Sometimes the starter relay and starter are seperate. When I refer to "relay" it could also mean the starter and relay as 1 unit.

Note: "starter switch" is not to be confused with "key switch", although sometimes they are all one unit. The starter switch is usually mounted on the steering column and actuated by a metal rod. On units that are all one unit, the keyswitch/starter switch (both one unit) will have to be replaced. (this is a rare problem, so don't get worried just yet)
1. Check battery voltage, should be between 12.5-14.5 volts. if low voltage replace or charge battery, and try to start car, if it don't crank with new or charged battery, move on. 2. Check connections on the starter relay, even the small one coming from your starter switch. if loose or corroded, clean with a brush and reconnect them. Try to start your car. Did it start? if not, Move on 3. Well now we know the connections aren't the problem. How about a click? did you hear one? If a click is heard, go to #4, if nothing is heard, go to #5

4. Well at least the relay is clicking, but nothing else is going on. The relay is working, so the starter must be bad. Replace the starter and start your car!

5. Humm, connections aren't the problem, maybe the relay is bad, replace your relay with a new one. Move on

6. Now we have a new relay, with clean and tight connections. Start your car. Does it start? If yes, then HORRAY! we fixed it. Does it click? If so then goto #7, If it don't click, then goto #8

7. So here we have a new relay, with good connections that will click when trying to start the car, but nothing else happens. Starter is faulty, replace the starter, and off you go, see ya!

8. So here we have a new relay, with good connections, but it still won't click when we try to start our car. This means that your starter switch is faulty. Replace starter switch and try to start your car. Vroom! finally done with this car problem!

• List of shortcuts: if you remove the starter switch lead (small wire) from the relay and apply +12v to its respective prong or lead on the relay, and your starter cranks, your starter switch is faulty. You can actually hook up a starter button this way. If you jump the two large wires together on the relay and it cranks, then the relay is faulty. If you jump the two large wires together and nothing happens, then starter is faulty, or wires to starter are loose or broken.

AC Delco Relay - Starter relayPart Number: AC158733Manufacturer Number: 15-8733

$36.64

List Price: $43.24

Save: $6.60

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• In Stock

AC DELCO STARTER RELAY -- A high quality, OE replacement starter relay.

• Type: Starter relay
• Product Fit: OE replacement
• Quantity Sold: Sold individually
• Anticipated Ship Out Time: 2-3 business days
• Warranty: Lifetime AC Delco limited warranty

Your vehicle has a starter relay that could cause that problem. But it could be the starter/solenoid also.

This sounds primarily like a starter on it's way out. The next time the starter will not engage the first time, have someone else hold the key into the start position and you tap the starter with a hammer and if it engages, replace your starter. Let me know if you need instructions on how to do so.

1. Connect the battery ammeter to the starter as shown in the illustration.

Fig. Fig. 4: Make the connections to the battery, ammeter and starter as shown here

1. Check the rotation of the starter, it must be smooth and steady with the pinion gear moving outwards. Compare the ammeter reading to the starter specifications chart.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figure 5
Replacing the starter while the engine is cold is recommended. A hot engine can result in personal injury.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the nut and disconnect the battery cable from the magnetic switch on the starter motor.
3. Disconnect the remaining electrical connections at the starter.
4. Remove the nuts and/or bolts securing the starter to the bell housing, then pull the starter toward the front of the vehicle to remove.

To install:

1. Insert the starter into the bell housing being sure that the starter drive teeth are engaged with the flywheel teeth, not jammed against the flywheel.
2. Tighten the attaching hardware to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) and replace all electrical connections.

Fig. Fig. 5: Exploded view of a common starter mounting found on Toyota trucks

1. Connect the positive battery cable (starter wire) to the starter.
2. Connect the negative battery cable.

RELAY REPLACEMENT

See Figure 6
The starter relays on most of your Toyota trucks are located either in the relay block in the engine compartment or on the driver's side junction block. The cover for the relay compartments should be marked, "starter'' or the relay will have a part number with a suffix of 28300-XXXXX. Simply locate the relay, pull it out, and install a new one if needed.

Fig. Fig. 6: The relay may be located in the driver's side junction block or in the engine compartment relay block

remove the starter relay from it's socket in the engine compartment relay box and reconnect the battery cable. If the engine cranks, your solenoid has failed closed and must be replaced. If the engine doesn't crank, borrow a 4 pole relay from somewhere else in the relay box and push it into the starter relay socket. If the engine cranks, the ignition switch is shorted to start and must be rapaired or replaced. If the engine doesn't crank, replace the starter relay. If this last case is true, you can borrow the horn relay until you get a new one. Does this make sense. Let me know if you have any questions.

Your Starter Relay, located in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel is sticking and causing the Starter "Run-On".
Locate the Starter Relay in the Relay/Fuse Box/Panel.
The identification and location of the Relays/Fuses should be located in your Owners Manual, or on the inside rear Cover.
There are usually Relays in the Box/Panel which are the same Type (size and shape). Switch out the suspected bad Starter Relay with another non-engine Relay that is KNOWN to work.
Recheck the operations of both these functions.
If the Starter is not still experiencing "Run-On" and the other function is now malfunctioning. The suspected Relay is bad and needs to be replaced.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

The starter relay is energized by the ignition switch, through either the neutral safety switch, or the clutch safety switch.

the starter is probably bad and needs to be replaced. but first check the starter relay and solenoid before changing the starter