Repair company saying the refrigerator needs to be moved out of built in to work on the back but thought from reviewing the schematics that all of this is available from the front. It is built-in so can't work on it directly from above. Trying to avoid the cost of getting movers involved. Thanks!
First, I'm not a Amana tech.
* Check your warranty and call for service. (which you already have.)
*** the following is for information only ***
* Here in the manual you can clearly see this is not a home unit. The compressor (I haven't confirmed this yet) is normally located at the top of the unit as is with most commercial display units.
https://www.repairclinic.com/UserManual/bfaf5fcb2e384aa8aff02eb6af470aaf/Amana-Refrigerator-Repair-Manual-B136CAL1-P1197503W-B136CAL3-P1197501W-B136CAR1-P1197504W-B136CAR3-P1197502W-B136CAL1-B136CAL3-B136CAR1-B136CAR3.pdf
* You will note (if this is the same as yours) that the bottom is all the way to the back wall and flush with the floor. Meaning there is no compressor at the bottom. (the repair man should know this).
* Look above item 1 (page 3) above it is a vented fan cover (the one with all the slots or grills) This is for the compressor fan and condenser fan. You may have noted warm air blowing from the top of the unit when it was working. You may have noted steam blowing out too. That is the condenser drip pan boiling off the excess water collected. (Defrost pan at bottom is drained to the floor drain pipe.
* The repair crew should be able to access the controls and compressor from the front.
* It is possible that you have a split system (depending on space available above the unit like a false ceiling. This is to allow hot air to exit the unit and out the building. Space may not have been available and the compressor package was moved to another location (usually outside wall mounted or in attic).
* Sounds like the unit was flush mounted to wall (flat with wall) and not ment to be removed. Frequent service (6 months) is required for all commercial units. The contractor would have known this and accounted for frequent access to components.
* If they really need to remove the whole unit (and access these buried components) then make sure they put it back with the idea that you may have to do this again with the next service.
* Final, Contact Amana directly to get more information. https://amana.com/
Aloha, ukeboy57
Testimonial: "Thanks for the input!"
SOURCE: 1999 Amana BB20/BRS20 refrigerator not cooling
Take the back cardboard panel off of the back and feel if the compressor is hot. alsocheck to see if the condensor fan is running. if the fan is inop, change it. If the compressor is hot, find a clamp on amp probe and clamp it on one of the wires going to the compressor.If the reading is over 5, you have a bad compressor. You may be able to get by with a RCO410 three in one hardstart.
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite refrigerator stops cooling - Relay keeps cycling
the relay on the compressor is most likely the culprit part# 8201786 you can buy it at the local sears parts and repair center it is very easy to replace it. your refrig compartment will start warming up soon. to prevent damage to your compressor probably a good idea to unplug the refrig until you get the part replaced..
SOURCE: Kenmore Elite stops cooling - Relay keeps cycling
the relay on the compressor is most likely the culprit part# 8201786 you can buy it at the local sears parts and repair center it is very easy to replace it. your refrig compartment will start warming up soon. to prevent damage to your compressor probably a good idea to unplug the refrig until you get the part replaced..
SOURCE: Amana Temp Controls Stop Working - Show Dash - Food Spoiled
could be a glitch in the defrost cycle the adaptive defrost control could be faulty and when you unplugged it you might have reset it it should be ok till monday but i would just get the basics untill the tech looks at it
SOURCE: Refrigerator will not stay cold
Bought a second hand fridge that was running well. We layed the fridge on it's side for moving and let it stand upright for at least 4 hours. The moving was only 45 minutes. The freezer is semi-cold but the main body of the fridge stays at aprox. 68 degrees. Any solutions.
It sounds like you are hearing the overload on the compressor closing. When the overload closes the relay tries to start the compressor (that might be the buzzing sound) and if the compressor doesn't start the overload opens and turns the compressor off. You will need to replace the relay on the compressor.
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