I unplugged the unit in case the coils had frozen, but there was no water on the floor 2 days later, so I plugged it back in and hoped for the best. Now there is no cold on either side. The unit is 15 years old. Suggestion s?
FREEZER /FRIDGE NOT COOLING: Optimum refrigerator temperature at or below40° F(4° C). The freezer temperature should be0° F(-18° C). Check temperatures periodically. Appliance thermometers are the best way of knowing these
Check ur cold control thermostat, ur thermistors in both fridge and freezer ( they should be checked for both ohms and for amount of current being put out as per ur model ), ur air flow vent from freezer to fridge.( to make sure it opens and closes without any restrictions) On thermistors check for A close circuit and amount of ohms not just an Ohm reading. As per ur model. Most should atleast show 1200 ohms. Also Check door seals for leakage.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
FAN check to see if it is operating or restricted A fan that is not blowing or restricted will not circulate the cold air properly.
Often, the first thing that folks do when their refrigerator starts to feel warm is turn both controls on the coldest settings.This is exactly the WRONG thing to do.Turning the cold control to the coldest settingwillkeep the compressor running longer and make lots of cold air.
But turning the air door to the coldest settingclosesthe airway to the food section. Lots of cold air is made, but most of it stays in the freezer section, and the food section actually getswarmer.
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.
1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
The air damper, baffle or diffuser is the device that balances the air flow from the evaporator fan housing. This normally is a mechanically controlled baffle or flapper that controls the amount of cold air entering the fresh food compartment. If the baffle is damaged or the linkage to the control knob is damaged, then you may not have enough cold air entering the fresh food compartment resulting in higher than normal temperatures. This baffle or damper will be located where the cold air enters the fresh food compartment.
Read more:
http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer
REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
SOURCE: Frigidare side by side FRS202RG freezer cold, fridge side warm (coils frozen)
your having a defrost promblem either the adc-auto defrost control board is bad or the defrost termination thermostat is bad or the heater is bad thats rare but does happen if you will open the refridgerator door and get me the model number off the serial plate on the toop of the compartment just look up when you open the door then let me see if it has an adc or timer i can reply and be more spefic about fixing your promblem hold my rating till we are done ok
SOURCE: Frigadaire freezer cold but fridge compartment is warm
i need the complete model number to narrow it down they still make the frs20zrg to this day the last two numbers like frs20zrgwo or frs20zrgw9 is what will tell me what kind of defrost system it has the serial plate is in the fridge side up by the light bulb or on the left hand side or right hand side of the fridge compartment up near the top sorry to be a bother but its necessary
SOURCE: FRIGIDAIRE FRS20ZRGD7 (SIDE BY SIDE) WARM FRIDGE/ COLD FREEZER HELP!
look open the freezer door pull the lower kick plate off look for a small little hole there its a mechanical timer model should be close to the wheel in that hole will be a plastic piece open the freezer door you will hear the fan running in the freezer take out the four or five screws on the lower panel where you keep seeing the frost and remove it you will see a silver honeycomb looking piece that's the evaporator on one of the tubes will be clipped a silver dome looking piece with two wires on it that's the defrost thermostat now turn the timer with a screwdriver that's the piece in the little hole slowly to your right till you hear a click and the fan stops in the freezer now as your turning it it will make a ratchet sound you want the click and the fan to stop look at your watch and note the time then wait about 5 minutes and look at the heater to see if its on if its all frosted up the frosted should look all watery if the heater is on then just let it run if not then reach up and turn the freezer control to the off position then un plug the two wires on the defrost thermostat and take the two wires that you unplugged the thermostat from and plug them back together and turn the freezer control back on and wait stay there and watch the heater come on let it defrost the evaporator if the heater comes on when you do that .that means the thermostat is bad if the heater comes on without you having to by pass it that means the timer is bad if you do all that and the heater does not come on then the heater element is bad now its going to get red like an oven and pop and sizzle but don't let it freak you out now if you had to by pass the thermostat and the timer cuts the compressor on before the frost is all clear just turn the timer around again till the fan cuts off and the heater will come back on if you by passed the thermostat then when all the frost is melted then reach up and turn the freezer control back off and reconnect the thermostat.Now after about 30 mins after turning it off the timer should cut back on if its not bad when you change the timer back out the two screws reach under the fridge and turn the timer and its shield till the screws are in the removal position when the timer is loose remove the shield and unplug the timer plug your new one back in then put the shield back on and back where it goes now id recommend changing both the timer and the thermostat as they fail pretty close together the stuff i described above is to make the unit defrost to save your food with out having to use your hair dryer also when all the frost is melted at he bottom of the evaporator on the right hand side is a hole in the cabinet that has to be clear of frost for the fridge to cool properly now any time during this defrost technique if you have a problem turning off the freezer cold control will turn off the defrost system
too if i can be of help or you need to know something just reply to this post
SOURCE: freezer won't freeze
is the fan running ion the freezer is the compersser runing and the cond fan >??
SOURCE: Freezer not cold enough, frig ok Frigidaire FRS6LR5EM7
Your defrost element is probably faulty, this is in the freezer compartment at the back and behind a removeable panel. You should change both the element and the defrost limiting thermodisc at the same time.
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