Question about Frigidaire Dishwashers
I have seen this problem before and there are only 2 things you can do about it. 1: take the outer panel off the door to gain acess to the wiring and unplug the fan (it will have a slight negative effect on the drying, but not too much) or 2: replace the control board. The part is about $350-$450 (depending on which board it takes) and that doesn't even include the labor if you cant do it yourself. The only place I know of to get parts for these in the U.S. is american appliance 303 777 0993. If the unit is less than 5 years old, the board is still covered under a parts warranty. Look at your serial nuber on the inner edge of the door to determine when it was built. The first two digit are the year it was made ( so an 01 would be 2001 etc) and the second two digits are the week (so 45 would be the 45th week of the year) HOpe this helps!
Posted on Dec 01, 2006
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem. If your machine doesn't fill but your drain motor continues to hum for no apparent purpose, this may work.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
SOURCE: Dishwasher pump keeps running
This is caused by a water leak into the base pan,it will trigger the anti flood and the machine will continously drain out even with the door open,you need to establish what is leaking,if you leave the appliance standing for a few days it will start again as the water will evaporate however if the fault returns you will definetly have aleak on the appliance which will require further investigation.
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
Remove the drain end. Keep it above little . Check whether the water is retained inside the washing machine. If water is retained- check your drain valve in the machine. it is parmenantly open or having improper closure.
Posted on May 24, 2010
SOURCE: Miele Diamante G 2150 SCU
Plugged system or a jammed drain pump can cause these issues, also make sure the drain hose is not blocked. Check the drain hose for any visible clogging, remove if present. If no visible lint is present then remove then turn off the dishwasher and remove the drain hose and check for any visible clogging. If still not visible then the drain filter or drain pump is clogged and you'll need to clean the drain filter and drain pump. Also, check for any food pieces stuck near the pump impeller. Hope this helps... Please post back for any further assistance. Daniel
Posted on Feb 28, 2011
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