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Under the gas valve is a removable panel. On models of that era there should also be a second panel behind the first. remove both.
the pilot light should be clearly visible.
If no pilot, turn the gas valve to OFF. wait 60 seconds. locate the tubes from the gas valve to the pilot location. turn the valve to pilot, and with a long match or grill lighter lit, place flame at the pilot location and press down on the pilot button beside the main valve.
pilot should light. If not shut off the gas and call a technician. If yes, hold the pilot button for 60 seconds, then slowly release. Pilot should stay lit. If not, shut off gas and replace thermocouple, start relight sequence over. If pilot stays lit, replace inner cover and adjust temp to 120 deg. If heater fires up, replace outer cover. Done.
If heater does not light, replace gas valve or entire unit. Water heaters have a limited life expectancy, and if my recollection is correct your unit is 10yrs past warranty.
I believe this is the furnace with a spark to light the pilot light. If so the best advice I can give is to replace the whole pilot assembly. There is a very old style flame sensor in there that is not serviceable. This has driven many a technician around the bend.
**NOTE: It is a real pain to get out, and back in. You need to take off the fire box cover and the panel underneath it to get it out. You also need to take the pilot tube off the gas valve. This may be something that you want to call a service tech for. It could be a little tricky and because you are dealing with gas, you want to make sure that it is put together correctly and safely.
There is a small tube that comes off the inducer for cracks or water. If there are cracks then the pressure switch that it is attached to may not be closing all of the time. Also sometimes you can get water in that tubing which will also cause the pressure switch to not close. If thats the case shorten the tube so there is no low droop in it where water can collect. Another thing that I would do is disconnect the tube at the indicer, take a straightened out paper clip or stiff wire and poke it in the nipple on the inducer to make sure it is clear too. Let me know if any of these work. There may be other things we can do.
Remove all power from the furnace, it is likely the brain in the furnace is need of being reset, from the battery replacement, why did you change the battery, was there an indicator telling you to change it?
Many times just removing all the power to the furnace will do the trick with a reset, if not let me know and we will go from there, but it sounds like the main brain is confused or bad, more likely confused, so try the power removed first.
It sounds like your drain line may be partially plugged. Some times a small insect will get in there and cause a partial obstruction. IF the line is clear and the water continues to drip over the sides then make sure the unit is balanced So that the water will flow to the drain and not out the back.
I have serviced these furnaces for 20 years and I can tell you most of these models did not have diagnostic lite on them. (although some did, especially if the control board has been replaced) The problem is most likely a bad 3 wire pilot. This will cause exactly what you describe. 2 things to consider though. 1, If you were to replace the pilot don't get a cheaper knockoff. In my experience these do not last long at all. Get the right one from a carrier dealer. It will cost more but be much more reliable. 2 What is the condition of the secondary heat exchanger? Most if not all of the sx series had issues with the secondary heat exchangers rotting out and leaking. If the furnace is out of warranty you would be much better replacing the furnace as the cost of replacing the secondary heat exchanger will probably be almost the same as a new furnace. ( those babies are EXPENSIVE!)