Require a wiring diagram for a Defy S 600 oven Thermostat wires not correctly connected as element heats with switch in off position

could not find a wiring diagram specifically for the Pro Chef AH-798HL convection oven online. However, here are some general steps to follow to help you wire your oven correctly:

1. Turn off the power supply to the oven before wiring it to prevent electrical shock or damage.
2. Connect the power supply wires to the power terminal block located on the back of the oven. Make sure to connect the black or red wire to the black or red terminal and the white wire to the white terminal. If there is a green or bare wire, connect it to the green grounding screw.
3. Locate the oven's thermostat and connect its wires to the oven's heating elements. The thermostat is usually located on the back of the oven, near the bottom. The heating elements are located inside the oven cavity.
4. Connect the oven's control panel to the thermostat. The control panel is usually located on the front of the oven and may have several wires connecting it to the thermostat.
5. Double-check all of the connections to ensure they are secure and correctly wired.
6. Turn the power back on and test the oven to make sure it is working properly.

Please note that if you are not experienced in electrical wiring, it may be best to consult a professional electrician to help you wire your oven correctly and safely.

This is a South African make. Contact Defy direct

https://www.newappliances.co.za/uploads/documents/DOWNLOAD%20MANUAL%20DBO466.pdf

and

https://www.google.com/search?q=defy+600+slimline+oven+oven+thermostat+wiring+diagram

..

Hi
It can be aproblem with the heating elements or bad termostat or bad contact of wires.

Assuming you have not removed or reconnected any of the wires I would look at the thermostat.

It sounds like the people who changed the elements did not connect them to the correct wires. The thermostat seems to have no effect on the elements, and the light switch seems to have no effect on the light, explain this to them and that you think they fitted the elements directly onto the power input to the device, instead of the correct connections.

Oven:
power comes in, goes to overtemp > timer > function switch > thermostat > element then back to neutral
fan & light come on with function or thermostat switch.
what else do you need to connect?
Oh, hotplates. Power in > infinite switch > hotplate and indicator then back to neutral.
Watch out for two phase with indicator light.

Strange one this. According to the wiring and circuit diagrams, the yellow wire from the fan should go to contact 4 on the main oven switch. The oven element is connected to the thermostat, which in turn is connected to contact 3 on the oven switch. When the oven is on the handbook says that contacts 1,3 and 4 are made, contact 1 being the oven lights. So if the lights come on and the fan turns, the switch is more or less working. The only other thing that overrides the oven element is the thermal cutout. If you still have the problem, let me know what the thermostat neon is doing in all of this. It will be interesting to see what this is doing. Also, if you want the handbook which includes the diagrams, post your email address and I will send you a pdf copy.

I did a search for this Bosch oven-
It sounds like the oven is not a conventional Resistance heating oven-
So it might be possible--

Do you have the manual for it?

I tried this web site: visit the website: www.bsh-group.com.
But It was not much help

Perhaps you can look in the phone book, and contact your local BOSCH appliance dealer, and have them look up the model in their Model catalogs?

Or-- You could pull the oven out, and check the wiring harness--
No doubt it will tell where the main cord comes in, -- if there is a hook up diagram for both 110 Volt,and 220 VAC connection diagrams-

When you get it out, tell us what you find-- maybe we can help further..

MackB

Hi,

Elements don't heat intermittently - if the element is good it will heat up every time. If the element is blown / burnt-out it wont ever heat.

As your oven is heating sometimes but not others, this means the power supply to the element has an interruption somewhere. This could be caused by any of the following:

1. Loose connection in the wiring at the switch or the element
2. Faulty switch
3. Faulty thermostat.
4. Faulty oven timer

The thermostat is effectively just a heat-sensitive switch. By default it should be "closed" allowing power to the element. When the oven reaches the desired temperature, this switch opens, cutting power to the element until the oven cools enough for the switch to close and allow power to the element again.

Any of these four could be the cause of your fault. Loose connections can often by located visually, however testing a thermostat for correct operation and calibration is more complicated and ideally requires test equipment. The timer is the least likely cause, so I would concentrate on the others first.

Repairing your oven or any other electrical appliance can be dangerous and many repairs require specialist knowledge and/or electrical test equipment. Please bear this in mind before and when attempting any repair or consider having your appliance professionally inspected.

If you are intending to investigate this problem yourself, please ensure the power is disconnected at the wall/breaker first. Initially, I suggest that you visually check the connections at the element and the switch. You may find a wire at one of these locations that is partially broken or detached. Personally, I suspect your thermostat may be faulty.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
BElectric

There are 3 possibilities:

Faulty thermostat
Faulty wiring
Faulty oven control switch

Thermostats fail more often in the closed position which means your oven will overheat so I'd test the wiring first. You'll need an Ohm meter to do this. TURN THE POWER OFF FIRST, expose the element and switch then trace the wires from the live and neutral terminals on the element back to the switch. If you can't trace them, make a note of their colours (at the element end) and test for continuity/resistance with wires of the same diameter and colour at the switch. You should get a reading of zero ohms if you have good continuity.

The easiest way to check the switch is visually. Make a note of the wiring colours and their positions on the switch terminals, disconnect them and remove the switch. See if anything looks broken or the

Some thermostats can be disassembled and inspected, but I don't recommend it unless you know what you're doing. The gap between the thermostat switch contacts needs to be precise or the oven wont heat to the correct temperate.

If you can establish that the wiring and switch are OK, try replacing the thermostat.